Pushcut problems?

[Ron Stadler]

Cutting from right to left you would be cutting with position number one on the gouge. I would create a secondary bevel by grinding away at least half of the bevel that you have now.

Also if you look at the picture (where you have the numbers) the wing is forward of the tip. With the wing cutting before the tip it's going to be real hard to do a push cut, and real hard to pick up a cut and keep it in the cut. Grind the wings down a bit more so they don't have as much curve.

Will try that Pat, thanks

[Ron Stadler]

The grind may not be your problem. Are you picking up a small "ledge" with your tool tip and following it to your end of cut--it helps to have a ledge to push against or the tool will just wander. This is very different than irish grind cutting.

I think I am doing what your talking about but having much success as of keeping it going.

[Pat Scott]

I should have said grind the wing down a bit more where #1 and #2 are pointing (blue line). Overall the curve and grind of your gouge looks pretty good, it just needs a bit of refining. The red line shows how much of the heel I'd grind away. I have maybe 1/3 bevel, and 2/3 ground away. The angle of the red line isn't important, you just want that extra metal out of the way.

[JohnC Lucas]

The grind looks fine although I would grind away the bottom corner of the bevel. This sharp edge will leave burnished marks on the inside of bowls that won't sand out and show up as light colored rings because it won't take the finish evenly. Your presentation angle looks about right. If you can't pick the cut up in this position then you either don't have the tools sharp (although it looks good) or you are not swinging the handle around far enough to engage the cutting tip. If it wants to skip out of the cut then either you aren't swinging the handle to follow the curve of the vessel or it isn't sharp. Again, once you start if it doesn't seem to cut really easily then rotate the flute clockwise or counter clockwise just a little. sometimes it only takes a few degrees to make the cut easily and be controllable.

[Ron Stadler]

I should have said grind the wing down a bit more where #1 and #2 are pointing (blue line). Overall the curve and grind of your gouge looks pretty good, it just needs a bit of refining. The red line shows how much of the heel I'd grind away. I have maybe 1/3 bevel, and 2/3 ground away. The angle of the red line isn't important, you just want that extra metal out of the way.

Ok , sounds good. And yes I do have bowls where I was getting bruise marks inside the bowl and as said I sanded and sanded to the point I thought it was some kind of weird grain going through the wood because it wouldn't go away.

[Ron Stadler]

Thanks for all you guys help, I'll keep working on it.

[Reed Gray]

Well, in the above picture, you want to be cutting with the 1 position, and that part is directly over the tool rest. The 2 position is high sided. This is pretty much the gouge position I would use on the outside of the bowl. If we had transporters, I would come over for a play date. I have a bunch of You Tube videos up, and most are on bowl turning.

Just went and reviewed this old clip. Probably should be updated. Not a good view of the push cut on the outside, but pretty much identical process for the inside of the bowl cuts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0qkpDBcgfg

robo hippy

[Ron Stadler]

Well, in the above picture, you want to be cutting with the 1 position, and that part is directly over the tool rest. The 2 position is high sided. This is pretty much the gouge position I would use on the outside of the bowl. If we had transporters, I would come over for a play date. I have a bunch of You Tube videos up, and most are on bowl turning.

Just went and reviewed this old clip. Probably should be updated. Not a good view of the push cut on the outside, but pretty much identical process for the inside of the bowl cuts.

https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=y0qkpDBcgfg

robo hippy

Funny thing is I never have any problems with the inside of the bowl.

[Ron Stadler]

Well i refined my grind and put a secondary bevel on it, I'll post the changes shortly, but what a difference that made. I turned one bowl and seems to be the trick, gonna turn another one in a bit so I'll let you know how it goes. Thanks guys so much for helping we this, really want to learn every cut out there and add them to my arsenal.

[robert baccus]

The double bevel is just a go-around. The real fix is to just change your bevel to a different angle.

[JohnC Lucas]

For doing the outside changing the bevel to a different angle won't solve your problem. A more acute angle will cut cleaner, a more blunt angle will let you get into the inside deeper and still rub the bevel. Light pressure on the bevel, followed by the correct angle of the flute will stop the bounce. I played with that a lot yesterday while I was testing some new carbide cutters. I would turn a little with the carbide scrapers and then go back to my bowl gouge. While I was doing that I would rotate the flute looking for the least effort on my part to make the cut. When you find that sweet spot the gouge is doing all the work and you are relaxed and get clean controlled cuts. Just for fun I used 3 different gouges, a 40/40 grind, a 55 degree grind and 65 degree grind. All cut just as easily but required different handle positions and of course the more acute grind cut a little quicker although I have short wings on that one so it didn't remove as much wood as the gouge with longer wings.