“Note the piece of blue tape on the lower edge. When you cut with a veneer saw, it's a safety factor to put a piece of blue tape where the saw will finish to minimize tearout at that point.”
Thanks for that tip, Mike!
Friend of the Creek
“Note the piece of blue tape on the lower edge. When you cut with a veneer saw, it's a safety factor to put a piece of blue tape where the saw will finish to minimize tearout at that point.”
Thanks for that tip, Mike!
Member
Wow, that might make me want to try it again. I really didn't like dealing with it, especially the glue.Originally Posted by James Morgan
Contributor
I don't use glue in my flatenner solution. The "active" ingredient is the glycerin, as mentioned by James (glycerin is hygroscopic so it keeps the veneer from drying out). But after you apply the flatenner, you need to press the veneer in a certain way.
Take heavy paper - do not use newspaper because the ink can come off on the veneer - and place it on both sides of the veneer. You can stack many pieces of veneer into a single stack. Put a caul on the bottom and top and use weight to press it down. After an hour or two, change the paper. Let that second set of paper go longer, maybe 6 -12 hours. Change the paper again and let it go for a day. I use a heavy kraft paper that I buy on a roll. I don't know the weight but it's substantial. If you don't have heavy paper, use multiple sheets.
Eventually, when the veneer is mostly dry, remove the paper and stack the veneer in such a way that it stays flat until you use it. I usually only do this when I'm going to use some veneer so at this point I put it into my project.
If you store the veneer loose you'll have to go through this process again when you want to use the veneer. It will not stay flat.
This is commonly needed for burls. You can find a description of this process in many places on the web.
Mike
[You can purchase glycerine on eBay. I think it's used by people who make soap so it's readily available and not very expensive. I bought a quart some years ago and still have a lot left.]
Last edited by Mike Henderson; 03-23-2018 at 2:16 PM.
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Contributor
One thing I didn't specify is that you should fold the blue tape over the veneer so that you have blue tape on both sides at the bottom. Don't just put the blue tape on the side facing you. The saw can rip it off during the cut.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
Contributor
I have jointed veeners using the table saw, with the veneer between 2 sacrificial boards. Worked great so far for cherry veneer. This method should work for any veneer.
I have seen similar jigs using the sacrificial boards but using a flat block of wood with some stick-on sandpaper, running the sanding block along the edges.
Contributor
I agree with Mike. This is a good way to cut long joints. You have to have a way to make sure your "package" doesn't move while you're making your cut (note that I'm implying that you can cut many pieces of veneer at one time). I use some thin sacrificial boards, such as 1/4" MDF, and hold them together with 23 gauge pins. Shoot the pins through while holding your gun a bit above the top piece of sacrificial wood. That way you can bend the pins over on both sides to make sure the package is held firm.
The pin holes in the veneer are not noticeable, especially if you use water based glue. The veneer swells up and closes the holes.
Mike
Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.
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