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Thread: If youcould have one handsaw, would it be rip or crosscut?

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    Broadview Heights, OH
    Posts
    711
    You can cut that blade down quick and easy with just an ordinary saw file. Mark the spot you want to cut it with a Mr Sharpie and then start filing a channel with the corner of your saw file along your line. Go about 1/3 of the way into the plate, which isn't much, maybe .010 or so. Then put the waste side in a vise with the channel just above the jaw and bend the saw away from the channel. Wear safety glasses and a pair of gloves. Typically it will snap cleanly right at the line. You can then clean it up with a mill file and round the toe as it was before. That's the way I used to do it back in the old days before I had a dedicated shear.

  2. #17
    Quote Originally Posted by Pete Taran View Post
    You can cut that blade down quick and easy with just an ordinary saw file. Mark the spot you want to cut it with a Mr Sharpie and then start filing a channel with the corner of your saw file along your line. Go about 1/3 of the way into the plate, which isn't much, maybe .010 or so. Then put the waste side in a vise with the channel just above the jaw and bend the saw away from the channel. Wear safety glasses and a pair of gloves. Typically it will snap cleanly right at the line. You can then clean it up with a mill file and round the toe as it was before. That's the way I used to do it back in the old days before I had a dedicated shear.
    Thank you.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Forest Lake MN
    Posts
    340
    No need to have just one, but if you really do have that need I guess it comes down to what you will do more of. In backsaws with fine teeth a rip seems more versital, in larger saw that probably flips. I would not make it xcut only if you need to do many rips, if you dont have at it. A hybrid filing with a little rake and fleem might be another option.

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
    Location
    Edmond, Oklahoma
    Posts
    1,749
    Hi Mike,

    I am in complete agreement with Pete, his suggestion is exactly what I would do also. I have 2 16" Disston #7s that have 16" blades. I have used one of them a lot, you can do a lot of crosscutting with a 16" 10 point. Will it cut as quickly as any of my 26" crosscut full size carpenters saws......nope. However, when sharp it cuts quickly enough that I don't consider a significant handicap, especially for a small portable woodworking tool chest.

    The saws in my big carpenters toolbox are nested exactly like Pete mentioned. I have 4 full size saws, which includes a large back saw for a miter box in it, and the total width for those saws is about 2 & 1/2".

    I checked just now, and if you have the blades parallel, handles at opposite ends, with the blade tips reaching to the tips of the horns on the parallel saw, the 16" panel saws take up an area about 1 & 1/2" by 21." A single 16" panel saw takes up an area of about 1" by 21," so as Pete mentioned, two saws take up only a very little more spade than does 1 saw. I also have a 20" Disston #7, and two of those could nest, as I described above in less than 25," again with a 1 & 1/2" width. Again, clearly you do not need much more space for two saws than for one. If length is not a problem, I would go with 2 20" Disston #7 panel saws, the crosscut a 10 point and the rip a 7 point. Beyond that, however, with a small portable tool chest you are looking for flexibility, you want to be able to do many things with limited numbers of tools.

    With panel saws, my experience is that the finer teeth are better than coarser teeth. They are also more versatile, as they work much better for finish projects than do coarser teeth. They are not quite as fast as the coarser toothed saws, but again, they are not a big disadvantage either when used for framing work.

    With regard to the price of a smoothing plane, I saw 4 Stanley Bailey planes on that action sites "sold" section that looked in pretty good shape, they are types 10s to 15s, those are the ones that I think the most desirable. They ranged in price from about $35 to about $65 or so. If you go to enough garage sales, flea markets, and antique shops, I believe you could certainly get a reasonable #4 for less than $30, and probably less than $20. You will likely have to put some sweat equity into it, however.

    These are very good planes, and after you spruce them up a bit you will be extremely pleased with them.

    Stew
    Last edited by Stew Denton; 03-21-2018 at 11:34 PM.

  5. #20
    Thanks, Stew.

  6. #21
    Ryoba? Cross cut on one side and rip the other. Have to be okay with a pull stroke cut.

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Apr 2017
    Location
    Clarks Summit PA
    Posts
    1,733
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Baker 2 View Post
    I have never cut down a saw before, and not sure how to go about it.
    One dollar bimetal 32 teeth per inch ( fine ) hacksaw blade. Place saw flat on scrap wood and clamp to bench. Saw at near corner ( cutting on push stroke ) at shallow 10 degree anglehttps://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....-Cutting-Steel
    Last edited by Mark Rainey; 03-22-2018 at 6:53 AM.

  8. #23
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon Jones View Post
    Ryoba? Cross cut on one side and rip the other. Have to be okay with a pull stroke cut.
    I have a Ryoba. My arthritis does not like it. But it is IMO a great design for a saw.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Jan 2009
    Location
    Lawrence, KS
    Posts
    594
    Get one of the Japanese pull saws that has rip on one edge, XC on the other edge.

    Or consider a bow saw frame and two blades, one rip, one XC.
    Don't sweat the petty things and don't pet the sweaty things.

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Jun 2010
    Location
    twomiles from the "peak of Ohio
    Posts
    12,120
    next time they are on sale..
    saw.JPG
    Just saying....
    ends.JPG
    Cuts square, and fast...
    package's back.jpg
    usually the weekend after the chisels are on sale...

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
    Posts
    4,119
    I use impulse-hardened Bahco dispose-a-saws (which come only in xcut) on sheet goods and "suspect" boards. No point messing up the good saws with that stuff. They're actually surprisingly good.

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    next time they are on sale..
    saw.JPG
    Just saying....
    ends.JPG
    Cuts square, and fast...
    package's back.jpg
    usually the weekend after the chisels are on sale...
    teven, I saw that kit a few months ago. Should have purchased.
    I might just shove my Fatmax in there and forget it. Still debating.
    S

  13. #28
    I got by with 1 hand saw for the better part of 5 years.. It's a Vaughn Bear Saw - one of the Japanese 2 sided Ryoba style pull saws with fine cut/crosscut on one side and more coarse rip teeth on the other side. The handle removes and it stows fast. Blades cost $8-10 each last time I bought some. It cuts fast and straight... It's pretty cheap for leaving some place.

    It's still my main go-to hand saw..

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