My quick and easy finish schedule

[Tom Bender]

(setting myself up here for criticism by better finishers but this is what I do)

Woodworking is the fun part for me, finishing...not so much. So upgrading my skills and results required some shortcuts. Here's what's working.

Start finishing in the design phase. Maple, Pine, Cherry, Aspen etc blotch so I don't use them, Walnut and Oak not quite so bad. Mahogany is my go to wood.

Continue by sanding (ROS) at all steps. This results in more accurate measuring and marking and less splinters. Also I can work out defects earlier.

As soon as practical apply finish

Finish schedule for Mahogany, Walnut and Purpleheart
Sand to 220
Mask as needed
Wipe on / wipe off Minwax Special Walnut stain (not on Purpleheart)
Remove raised grain and restain as needed.
Coat with 1lb shellac
Smooth with crocus cloth

Continue woodwork and assembly. Repair finish as appropriate. This finish is really easy to repair. If the stain is damaged, then the wood is exposed and a quick wipe on and off works perfectly.

High wear or wet areas need something better but shellac is fine for most surfaces. It gives a little gloss and locks down splintery fibers. Dry in minutes and doesn't stink up the basement shop.

Ebony, no finish, just sand very fine.

Done!

[Wayne Lomman]

Starting the finishing in the design phase is exactly the right approach. It is the only way to get the job done properly. Continuing preparation and finishing as the job progresses is also exactly the right approach. Your choice of finishing products suits your work, so they are correct as well.

What you have done is design a finishing system that works for you. Over time you will excel a the job even though you don't particularly enjoy it, simply because you will have done the task many times.

Finishing is not ideology. It is a straightforward, practical part of the job that should be no more hassle than required. All would do well to take note of what you have done and apply the principles to their own finishing. Keep up the good work! Cheers

[Tom Bender]

Wow,,,thanks Wayne

[Phil Mueller]

As Wayne said, it is the right way to go. Prefinishing certain parts prior to final assembly helps ensure a smooth finish at joints, particularely on the insides of boxes, drawers, and other hard to reach areas. Glue squeeze out won’t be as much a factor, and glue over finish is often easier to clean off. Some things, of course, it doesn’t make sense (like the outside of dovetail joints) which will likely get planed or sanded after glue up.

Your finish schedule, specifically the staining, is the reason for blotch on Maple and Cherry, but keep in mind that those are beautiful woods with only a clear finish. In fact, I tend to think it is a sin to stain cherry...but whatever. Since you are familiar with shellac, try blond (or Zinsser clear) diluted down to as little as a 1/2lb cut for the first coat or two. If you use the canned stuff dilute 1/4 shellac, 3/4 DNA. Or if it’s Zinsser Seal Coal, mx 1/3, 2/3. It’s what I do on cherry and get very little blotch. And what little blotch I might get, usually darkens out over time to be unnoticeable.