Bandsaw decision Rikon 10-347 or laguna 18bx?

[David Kumm]

This isn't directly on point but I can't let it go either. A bandsaw is not a precision machine. There have been no real improvements in bandsaws since the invention of ball bearings and AC motors. They are simple and depend entirely on materials used and quality of build. Unlike some other machines, newer saws are not a bargain in comparison to old. I ran an ACM LT18 which is higher end than either of the saws discussed here but it was mediocre in comparison to my Y20 made in 1938. Wheel balance and frame strength ( including the build of the tension spring mechanism ) are the primary factors that determine a good quality saw. Age is only relevant if the machine was marginal when new as are guides if the saws tensions high enough. Dave

[Bill Dufour]

where do you live? I might have a lead on a doall 1612 for a good price.
Bill D.

[Art Tripp]

This isn't directly on point but I can't let it go either. A bandsaw is not a precision machine. There have been no real improvements in bandsaws since the invention of ball bearings and AC motors. They are simple and depend entirely on materials used and quality of build. Unlike some other machines, newer saws are not a bargain in comparison to old. I ran an ACM LT18 which is higher end than either of the saws discussed here but it was mediocre in comparison to my Y20 made in 1938. Wheel balance and frame strength ( including the build of the tension spring mechanism ) are the primary factors that determine a good quality saw. Age is only relevant if the machine was marginal when new as are guides if the saws tensions high enough. Dave

In the overall scheme of things, the bandsaw is a quite simple concept and I didn't call it an actual precision machine. In the context of my reply, the bandsaw is "something that I want to perform more as a precision piece of equipment". I can perform a quality and detailed cut on a good bandsaw that many other saws can not perform, or not perform well - thus the 'more of a precision' reference.

With the proper and good machine, I can easily and cleanly resaw a board and also accurately cut alongside a marked curved line. With an inappropriate choice or a bad machine, I may or may not be able to even come close, producing a quite inferior result.

There are a multitude of bandsaws available from the cheap (not mentioning the brands) type, to the high-quality and high-priced deluxe models, bandsaws that are quite tiny or large enough that two people alone aren't going to budge, a difference between old and new, as well as neglected and used overly hard or those saws that have been properly cared for.

In regard to the specific Rikon and the Laguna saws (machines I consider to be quite comparable) and that are the focus of the post, the machines share many similarities as well as a variety of differences and personally I would think that a person could be satisfied with either machine with the final choice centering on the actual differences between the two machines. I looked closely at the Rikon, Jet and Laguna in my search and am quite satisfied with my choice - as are a majority of those folk that have chosen to go with the Rikon or Jet (or others).

[Charlie Hinton]

I have been thinking about one of these larger bandsaws too.
Wondering if the blade brake is worth having or not.
For those that have a saw with the brake how often you actually use it?
For those without the brake do you regret saving the $ or not?

[erin patton]

Bill, I live in West central Indiana.

[David Kumm]

My point was that expecting a new low to medium end machine to perform better as a precision piece of equipment than a used machine of similar price is in error. Condition is always a factor but there are as many horror stories of hobby grade machines needing work to run properly as of used machines that can't be made well. The beauty of used in the woodworking market is that true industrial equipment is available , often at less cost than hobby new. I read about the fear of no warranty or parts no longer available, but after 50+ used machines, I've yet to have a problem sourcing or making the few parts a good quality machine might need. The saws being discussed here are decent starter saws but there are better choices if one educates himself a little, has some patience, and is willing to solve a few problems along the way. A pallet jack and a VFD open a number of doors, including saws that will tension carbide blades and resaw at an efficient speed at a price competitive with new saws that won't. Dave

[erin patton]

Now that I've had more time to ocd about this I've found myself looking at the g0636 and the mm s400p. I know this changes my budget and the whole conversation.

I don't understand how some guys can take a mid level bs and resaw just fine and the next guy not have any luck at all.

If only that Rikon were in stock!

[Curt Harms]

Now that I've had more time to ocd about this I've found myself looking at the g0636 and the mm s400p. I know this changes my budget and the whole conversation.

I don't understand how some guys can take a mid level bs and resaw just fine and the next guy not have any luck at all.

If only that Rikon were in stock!

Different budget and different 'grade' of saw. One thing about the Grizzly 0636 or MiniMax is you're unlikely to be upgrading anytime soon. No one has mentioned repairing your Craftsman saw. Oftentimes 16" - 18" saws have trouble with small blades, 1/4" or smaller but those are the blades best for tighter curves or scrolling type work. Plus it can be a pain to swap blades between resawing/ripping and curve cutting/scrolling.

[Bill Dufour]

Bill, I live in West central Indiana.

Too far, I am in California. I suggest you look at a used Doall 1612 saw. Or even the 20". twice the weight of a woodsaw (1500 pounds or more) and more then strong enough to tension a carbide blade. Probably cost around 1200 on craigslist. For wood only you do not need the transmission version and can just run it at higher rpms with some pulley changes.
Bill D.

[erin patton]

Curt, I plan on repairing the craftman. I need to put new tires on it. The guy I bought it from years ago wants to buy it back for what I paid for it. I actually might just keep it.

[Art Tripp]

The blade brake is one of the features that wasn't a high priority during my bandsaw search, but after having it and putting it to use regularly, it is something that I truly like. It can take a long time for the blade to stop after shutting a machine off and having the ability to bring it to a stop more swiftly is a huge plus, not only to remove any small pieces that may be lingering near the blade, but to prevent inadvertent accidental contact with the blade while it is still quietly spinning, as well as in the event that something unfortunate would happen and there be a mechanical emergency.

I found myself finishing a cut and placing the finished piece on the assembly table, then returning to the saw to do additional work, only to find the blade still silently spinning and capable of inflicting a good bit of damage to whatever (or whoever) may come in contact. Losing awareness in that short period of time could have a bad result.

I have also found it handy to use the brake when going from one task to another, particularly those that require several saw adjustments, and instead of twiddling my thumbs waiting, I can move from one thing to another in short time.

Personally, I don't think that stomping on the brake and bringing the saw to an immediate stop would be a good practice, but a more gentle application of the brake can be an advantage and feature worth having.

[Nick Decker]

"I don't understand how some guys can take a mid level bs and resaw just fine and the next guy not have any luck at all."

My guess is it comes down to understanding and adjusting the saw correctly. I know I spent far more time setting up and understanding my bandsaw than any other tool I own. It's not hard, just different.

[Bill Dufour]

Get a three phase motor and use a vfd for slow start and braking.
Bill D.

[David Kumm]

Order the VFD with an additional brake resistor to handle the inertia. Well worth the slight additional charge. Dave

[lee cox]

I have been thinking about one of these larger bandsaws too.
Wondering if the blade brake is worth having or not.
For those that have a saw with the brake how often you actually use it?
For those without the brake do you regret saving the $ or not?

I have a Minmax 45 without a brake. I don't feel like I miss one but I have never owned a brake. I am not planning to get rid of this saw. I am happy.