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Thread: Brushing shellac

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Mar 2015
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    SE Michigan
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    Brushing shellac

    I know I’ve been a bit obsessed with shellac lately, but I’ve been experimenting with it to get grain pop something close to oil, but without the hours of weeping, or the smell (especially on the inside of boxes, drawers, etc.)

    I’m sure there are a lot of finishes that can accomplish that, but I’ve watching a number of french polishing videos and one thing that struck me was a guy who said when the rubber starts to stick, push a bit harder and work through it, or something like that. Also, the very small amount of shellac used.

    So I thought, maybe it could also apply to a brush. So I tried multiple coats of brushing with a very diluted mix and brushing back and forth over about a 12” area and kept brushing as it became tacky...kept going until it felt like a dry brush. Maybe nothing new, but I’m pleased so far with the grain pop, the lack of any brush strokes and the general shine. This is walnut, no grain filling, about 15 brush applications.

    D579BEE1-5C5E-4DB0-81D5-BFCB225CFC16.jpg

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
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    North Virginia
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    Phil - that's a great finish on that walnut. Like you, I've become a bit obsessed with shellac lately. After some early failures with shellac that was too thick, I started thinning my cut back to a 1lb. or even a 0.75ib cut - and applying many discrete coats. I have been padding it on mostly, but I did buy a dedicated shellac brush from TFWW which improved my results substantially. The TFWW brush is a bit expensive, but worth the price. And since I only use it for shellac, I don't have to be too fastidious about cleaning it. I just soak it in DNA for a few minutes before I use it and rinse out some of the old shellac.

    Always more to learn!

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    Phil, you shouldn't work shellac like varnish when applying it with a brush...you put it on with a nice stroke and then no more than a quick back stroke or two and move on, working away from the wet edge. You'll like it better if you do not keep brushing until it gets tacky. It's something you have to get used to "doing things differently" and the end result can be very pleasing. Brushing shellac is easier on smaller things than it is on larger pieces for obvious reasons. One also has to be careful near edges to avoid loading up finish right at the edge.

    BTW, "the brush" you use can also make a big difference and using a high quality brush appropriate for shellac remains economical because you dedicate it to shellac and it will last a LONG time.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  4. #4
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    Jim, I agree with all you said, and that was my usual way to apply with a high quality brush. I was just experimenting with a different method...very thin shellac (like 1/4-1/2lb) and brushing quickly back and forth through the tack until the brush felt dry. It does need a very light sanding, but I'm liking the results.

    It doesn't seem too far off from padding...lots of very thin applications which can be almost immediately applied coat after coat. I call it French Brushing 🙄

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    I’m sure there are a lot of finishes that can accomplish that, but I’ve watching a number of french polishing videos and one thing that struck me was a guy who said when the rubber starts to stick, push a bit harder and work through it, or something like that. Also, the very small amount of shellac used.
    I've always learned that the rubber "start[ing] to stick" is your cue to add oil.

  6. #6
    +1 on that
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

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    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
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