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Thread: New shaper bit blowout

  1. #16
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,236
    Cary provided a great illustration of conventional and climb cutting.

    To climb cut you'll need a stock feeder...............Rod.

  2. #17
    Join Date
    Aug 2006
    Location
    Maine
    Posts
    381
    Thanks Cary. Not something I want to experiment with.
    - - - - - - - - - - - - -
    Jim Mackell
    Arundel, ME

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Bellingham, WA
    Posts
    1,933
    Climb cutting is a piece of cake with a feeder for small cutters. It can get a little more exciting with larger cutters, but if you set the feeder up properly, still not a big deal. Biggest issue is the dust collection. It requires an extra collection point out along the fence where the chips get ejected...
    JR

  4. #19
    Join Date
    Jul 2007
    Location
    Inkerman, Ontario, Canada
    Posts
    1,383
    The biggest problem with climb cutting is that cutters are not designed for climb-cutting they are designed for up-cutting.
    The tool geometry for up-cutting is a compromise to prevent the splintering that you had.
    A small rake angle provides more forward push and less lift.
    Schematic-representation-of-conventional-machining[1].jpg
    A large rake angle cuts better as long as the grain direction is good, when the grain direction is bad it will lift the grain and splinter out.
    So they make the rake angle small to counter that.
    It doesn't cut so much as scrapes but it doesn't lift and splinter, so its a compromise.

    84881definition_00000057229.jpg

    A high rake angle works best for climb cutting.
    A high rake angle with chip limit design works the safest.
    Climb cutting with up-cutting bits can be done and will often give better results if you are having problems up-cutting.
    Climb cutting with an up-cutting bit is not ideal, it is like playing basketball with soccer cleats, you can get away with it if you have to. But the "blunt" angle will not cut very well but will grab more, and it can shoot the wood like a bullet if it is not properly controlled, that is why many have suggested to use a power feeder.

    A bit designed for climb-cutting does not have to be a compromise like the up-cut bit as it has no concern for lifting the chips, and can therefore be a "sharper " angle as it is only concerned with cutting not lifting. A sharper angle will cut easily without the grabbing effect of an up-cut bit. One designed with a chip limiter would cut cleanly and will be easy to control feed. The climb cutting is cutting down into the wood so there is no splintering.
    Unfortunately i don't know of any company that makes climb-cutting tooling.


    assemrouterbit1.jpg

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Aug 2013
    Location
    Princeton, NJ
    Posts
    7,235
    Blog Entries
    7
    I make these cuts with my router table occasionally, I don't have a bit with a knicker so what I do is simply score a line with my marking gauge. I set it very exacting and make certain that the cutter is cutting at the line so that the mark is removed by the cutter. Works well, especially in a spot where it absolutely must be crispy clean.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  6. #21
    I have found that taking a full cut with my shaper making door rails splinters bad, so have taken to just jointing the splintered edge and running again which eliminates most of the splinters.

  7. #22
    Jim, one good way to stop that tear off is to use a small roundover bit to climb cut those pieces before the "real " cut. "Keeps the sweater from unraveling". That round over can be done with the feeder on high speed. Try it

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2008
    Location
    Ouray Colorado
    Posts
    1,385
    We used braised tools like that to make square edge doors back in the 80s. A backup fence will help but not all the time depending on species. In the case of larger house size grooves we would cut on the shaper over depth then take a 1/16 off on the jointer or planer. Another method was to climb cut a 1/16 or so deep using a clamp on fence for quick setup and then do the final cut conventional. Both with a feeder of course. This method produces good results.

    As JR mentions climb cutting makes a mess and is something we rarely do anymore for safety reasons.

    We use adjustable groovers now with nickers and get clean cuts with one pass. We also have a custom made head that takes the whole edge, is adjustable for width and puts a 1mm radius round over where the panel goes in. This one makes a nice cut but not everyone likes the look of the rounded edge.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    If it's a single speed 8000 rpm machine ,I would say the cutter is too small for low rpm
    That cutter is 2 5/8" in diameter, and would need to be spun at a minimum 10,000 rpm to attempt to cut well. 8000 rpm would be appropriate for a 4-5" cutter head.

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