Tap and die

[Blake M Williams]

I now have two taps. One is 2 1/4, the other is for 2 1/2. Unfortunately the thread angle is 60 degrees on both. I would like to find or have one made that is 90 degrees. If I have one made, should it be 2 inches in the middle with 1/2 inch teeth to get 2 1/2?

Anyways, I would like to make a couple of die boxes for these two. For these sizes I should have two cutters in the box right? I would like some help or advice here. I would really like pictures of boxes with two cutters.

I have not been on this forum much and I'm not sure how or if we can post pictures. Thank you.

[john jesseph]

image.jpg

image.jpg

I can't help much with advice. This is a two cutter 2" screw box and tap. Why 90 degrees?

[Jim Koepke]

Howdy Blake,

Posting pictures is simple with a few simple steps. First make sure the image file size is 1.8MB or less. Next click on the icon that looks like a portrait of a tree:

Picture Posting.png

This will bring up a dialog box which may look like this:

Dialog box.png

If the file is on your system, then check computer if it looks like it wants a URL or click from URL if you have an image at some photo host. If you read old posts with images missing you will understand my preference for letting SMC host my images.

The only other thing to consider is the image will pop in where the cursor was last parked.

John Jesseph inquired about why you wanted the cutter to make 90º threads, my understanding is these are stronger in wood.

jtk

[Blake M Williams]

Thanks, I'm not the most technical computer guy. Do you have any pictures of the inside of the box? The placement of the cutters, and the cutter profiles?

I read in a book by Roy Underhill that he made cutters from good quality files. Any advice here?

[george wilson]

Them90º angle threads are to help keep the sharp edges of the wooden threads from breaking off. Metal is ,of course,not nearly as fragile as wood.

[Blake M Williams]

Could you provide some pictures bof your die box? Placement of cutters.. etc

[Matt Evans]

Nice find! I always am on the lookout for the older threadboxes and taps, but they seem to get snapped up just before I get to them.

George has it correct.

If you think about the angle of the pressure generated, the 90 will push into the shaft of the screw, whereas the 60 will push towards the base of the thread. Couple that with the fact that a 60 degree thread is slimmer, and you have a greater chance of breaking the thread off with a 60 degree thread in wood.

I have a better drawing of this somewhere, but have not been able to locate it this morning. I will see if I can find it when I get back at my desk this evening.

[Blake M Williams]

Is there anyone one here willing to make a tap?

[John K Jordan]

Is there anyone one here willing to make a tap?

A tap for wood is pretty easy to make if you start with a bolt. Since wood is soft you can get by without using a hardened tap. An ACME thread bolt might work OK in this case. Grind channels across the threads so it looks just like a standard tap.

Since taps are tapered either a little or a lot on the leading end (bottom or std taps) you can taper the bolt with a file or bench grinder before making the slots. Taps without tapers are difficult to get started. Even then, I always mechanically constrain taps to the axis of the hole.

I've done this dozens of times to make quick taps for smaller threads - most of the time I use a triangular file and just cut through some of the threads - the cut can be angled or straight. For larger bolts I have used a little metal-cutting disk on a Dremel.

As for breaking off threads in wood while tapping, a soaking with thin CA or sanding sealer can help with some woods.

Making a die from a nut is harder. It may be easier to cut the nut in half first, cut the slots, then fasten the two halves together.

But I agree that for wood a threading box with a sharp cutter can do a far better job in wood.

JKJ

[Bob Glenn]

John, did you mean making a tap from a bolt instead of "die" from a bolt? Or am I missing something here? Bob

[John K Jordan]

John, did you mean making a tap from a bolt instead of "die" from a bolt? Or am I missing something here? Bob

I meant make a die from a nut. Sorry! I'll edit and fix my goof. Thanks!

JKJ

[Tom M King]

I think Hickory Saw & Tool could probably make taps like you want. I would expect it to be a few hundred dollars though. There are youtube videos about making die boxes for wood.

[Kim Gibbens]

These will lighten your wallet, but they would be so sweet.


https://www.fine-tools.com/gewind.html

[David Bassett]

Garrett-Wade catalog came today and listed thread-box and tap pairs in various size.

That got me searching other sites. TFWW doesn't seem to have any, but Lee Valley has something: Beall's Wood Tapping & Threading Kits

So more solutions available than I imagined.

[george wilson]

I can make correct taps of any size. Unfortunately,as said above,a large tap would cost a few hundred at least. In the DICK catalog from Germany,last time I looked,about 10 or 20 years ago,they wanted about $1200.00 for a 2" tap and die set.
I am always making smaller taps,mostly left hand,for spinning wheels. some of their threads are left hand,to keep the bobbin from unscrewing.

I have posted a picture of a double ended tap for right handed threads n one end,and left hand on the other. I also show a double hole wooden die for both threads. was planning to make a cooper's compass. My customer found an original before I made the compass,though.

I always say " I made" so my pictures are always easy to find. My taps are of a more advanced type,which is available these days,and was also in the 18th. C.,IIRC. The thread stops abruptly,and a hole is drilled through the end of the thread,into the hollow interior at the front end of the tap. The wood that the tap cuts is ejected in a continuous string. This type of tap is easier to get inserted accurately into the starting hole,and cuts a smoother thread.

Try looking for " Taps and dies I made." I'll look too and will advise if I can find it.