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Thread: Raster image only does outline

  1. #1

    Raster image only does outline

    My parents have a VLS2.30, nice simple 30 watt desktop laser. When they first got it it seemed to be working fine, but then it was moved twice and sat unused for about 8 months. They tried getting it up and running again last week and it wasn't working too well so I went home this past weekend to help. I will likely be visiting again this weekend so if I can get some advice on anything that can be tried before then I'd appreciate it.

    Long story short: When putting a simple raster through (ie, plain black text) it only does the outline of the text. This makes no sense to me. It is a raster, there is no vector, how is it not filling in? I watched it, it goes back and forth as it's supposed to, I can see the beam on the material as it goes all the way across but when I take it out to look it isn't filled in.

    By tweaking the power and speed I was able to get better results but still not perfect: thinner parts (like the vertical line of a 'T') come out fine but the wide parts (like the horizontal line of the same 'T') don't get filled in, even though I can see that the laser is firing the entire duration. If this explanation doesn't make sense I'll try to demonstrate it by etching a plain black triangle this weekend.

    To begin with the alignment was off: I found some instructions that told me to use some tape to get it dead centre and I did that, but after fixing the alignment there was another thing I noticed which may or may not be expected/related: with the carriage in the lower right corner (furthest distance from the laser), the "test laser" step puts a nice black dot right in the middle of the tape. In the upper left corner (shortest distance from the laser) it burns a hole clean through. I need to cut the power (from 20% to 15%) to get the same just black dot result. Is that supposed to be the case, that this apparent difference in power depending on where the carriage is is normal and not something to worry about? Could it be directly related to my actual problem or possibly a different problem? With all the optics back in place, the focus is also wrong: the red laser is a perfect dot in one corner but becomes a blur in the opposite corner. I suspect that this may be a different problem, but it could be related.

    After the alignment was fixed, I did some tests on paper, wood, and ceramic, with one line of text one inch tall. For the paper, I was not able to get a perfect result: if I increase the power or decrease the speed anymore then it was correctly filling in the wide parts but it burns clean through the narrow parts. I was able to get more-or-less good result on the wood (more on that in a minute) but the ceramic I had at 100% power and 1% speed and it still had some gaps. This same ceramic worked just fine 8 months ago.
    The wood test revealed another, possibly related problem. I tweaked the settings until I was able to get good output, testing with the 1 inch tall text. I then tested with more text, filling a 4 inch space, but as it moved down the block it got lighter and lighter, going back to being hollow text halfway down.

    I've been googling for days but I'm obviously not using the right words; finally reached the end of my efforts and felt I needed the input of experts. If anyone has any experience or suggestions of any kind I'd appreciate it. Does this look like an issue with the optics? A lens that isn't right? Maybe the laser itself has just worn out despite sitting unused for so long and needs to be "recharged" or whatever you do with them?

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Iowa USA
    Posts
    4,483
    Do you have the correct color pallet? When I had my ULS I thought it was not working correctly.... until I installed the approved color pallet in Corel Draw.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  3. #3
    Was the text outlined with a hairline, or a fatter outline?
    IN the Printer driver properties, was black 'raster' or engrave checked, as opposed to being unchecked, or set as 'skip' ?I never go straight to print, but always go via the Properties options. you can turn on or off the colours there.
    Best wishes,
    Ian



    ULS M-300, 55w made 2002 with rotary. Goldenlaser 130 watt, 1300x700 made 2011.
    Flat bed 2500x1300 150/90watt 2 tube laser, 2018 model.
    Esab router, 1989, 4.5 x 2.0 m, conv. to Tekcel, and modded a 2nd time.
    HP L260-60". Roland PNC-1410. Mimaki GC-130 SU.
    Screenprinting carousel 6x4 and 7x4 ft 1-arm bandit vac table.
    Corel Draw X3, Illy, Indesign & Photoshop CS2 & CS5, Enroute 4
    Pencil, paper, paintbrush, airbrush & dagger-liners & assorted other stuff.

  4. #4
    It would be helpful if you could post a picture of the work. The problem could be a multitude of things including the artwork.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  5. #5
    I used inkscape to create the text which can only "print" in black when done directly. To get vector cuts out of inkscape it needs to be exported to a PDF and printed from Adobe which I'm not doing. It is definitely making raster motions and never vector motions, always left-right-left, never outlining. The "outline" is fat and gets fatter as I increase power or decrease speed in the raster settings and thinner when doing the opposite. I am 100% certain that it is doing the correct thing from a software perspective.

  6. #6
    I took this image of the last thing I did to demonstrate the issue:
    http://rebirthofxeen.com/images/IMG_20180311_201605.jpg
    You can see anywhere it's "wide" it is faded and unfilled: the middle of the B, tops and bottoms of Os, the cross of the 't', etc...

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Iowa USA
    Posts
    4,483
    Get rid of Inkscape and use Corel Draw a lot less issues and it works. How are you getting the color pallet correctly for the print driver in ULS? As I also recall from using Inkscape you only get outlines of letters (vectors?) , to get a true filled BMP there is a special output.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  8. #8
    If the machine is set for vector, it won't raster; if it's set for raster, it won't vector. David's machine is rastering, so there's no raster/vector settings problem.

    This sounds like it may be the tickle setting is way outta whack..
    ========================================
    ELEVEN - rotary cutter tool machines
    FOUR - CO2 lasers
    THREE- make that FOUR now - fiber lasers
    ONE - vinyl cutter
    CASmate, Corel, Gravostyle


  9. #9
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill George View Post
    As I also recall from using Inkscape you only get outlines of letters (vectors?) , to get a true filled BMP there is a special output.
    You have that backwards. Inkscape can only raster directly, in order to get cuts and etches you need to export to a PDF and then load it in Adobe PDF viewer. I use Inkscape because I know it, I've been using it for over a decade; an extra step to be able to laser something, but I actually kind of like the fact that it needs an intermediate PDF, makes it easier to send and display.

  10. #10
    Ok, what the dickens is a tickle setting? I'm googling and there's a bunch of forum posts saying "oh yeah, that's the tickle setting" but I can't figure out what it's supposed to do; I'm not even sure the VLS2.30 has it, at least I can't find mention of it in any manual. Other ULS engravers talk about it though. I can totally believe some internal settings getting bumped and changed from the way it was moved, though.
    How confident are you on this tickle setting thing? Because I've almost convinced myself that it's the tube and working up a way to tell my parents it's likely going to cost a few thousand to fix, but if I can just show up and flip some DIPs until it works that'd be so much easier.

  11. #11
    Before you start changing tickle settings you should call ULS tech support. I am not convinced it is either a tickle setting or the tube. ULS used to loan out a power meter so you could check the tube.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  12. #12
    Bill said it above - get rid of Inkscape, and use Corel Draw.
    Universal lasers were made with Corel in mind. It's SO simple to use them that way. That's their beauty.
    And you can set to raster/engrave as well as vector engrave or vector cut, all in the one file at the one time, if wanted.
    Last edited by Ian Stewart-Koster; 03-15-2018 at 10:17 AM.
    Best wishes,
    Ian



    ULS M-300, 55w made 2002 with rotary. Goldenlaser 130 watt, 1300x700 made 2011.
    Flat bed 2500x1300 150/90watt 2 tube laser, 2018 model.
    Esab router, 1989, 4.5 x 2.0 m, conv. to Tekcel, and modded a 2nd time.
    HP L260-60". Roland PNC-1410. Mimaki GC-130 SU.
    Screenprinting carousel 6x4 and 7x4 ft 1-arm bandit vac table.
    Corel Draw X3, Illy, Indesign & Photoshop CS2 & CS5, Enroute 4
    Pencil, paper, paintbrush, airbrush & dagger-liners & assorted other stuff.

  13. #13
    Ok, I'll try a copy of Corel Draw this weekend, but if that actually fixes it I'll be very surprised.
    Thanks!

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Mar 2014
    Location
    Iowa USA
    Posts
    4,483
    Quote Originally Posted by David J Goldsmith View Post
    Ok, I'll try a copy of Corel Draw this weekend, but if that actually fixes it I'll be very surprised.
    Thanks!
    FYI ULS requires a certain color pallet, so some research you will find out. Also line widths wider than a hairline will not vector, same thing do the research.
    Retired Guy- Central Iowa.HVAC/R , Cloudray Galvo Fiber , -Windows 10

  15. #15
    Alrighty, got a copy of Corel, made a square, rotated it 45 degrees, filled it in black, set the outline to none: no difference, still not filling in properly.
    http://rebirthofxeen.com/images/IMG_20180317_170924.jpg
    I started it out with the default 33% power: couldn't see anything. Increased it to 70% about 1/3 of the way down for it to start showing what you see here. While at this power you can very lightly see the infill, much of the edge is burned completely through. Ignore the holes in the middle, that was from an earlier test on the back of the paper. Looking at it now I can see that the 33% power did do something, it is very very lightly a different colour; kinda seems like it cleaned the paper instead of marking it :P

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