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Thread: Saw not tracking true after sharpening

  1. #1

    Saw not tracking true after sharpening

    I just finished sharpening my first crosscut saw. The saw is sharp, though I am certain I did not do a stellar job for my first time. But I have a problem; the saw now veers off to the right. It tracks true until I get about 3/4 of the way through a cut, then veers off pretty quickly to the right. I am letting the saw do the cutting, and not putting pressure one side or the other?
    Anyone know what I might have done wrong, or what I can do to correct?
    Thanks.

  2. #2
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    Mike; slightly more tooth set on the right side of the saw plate would cause the issue you have highlighted. How you got to that situation is a little more difficult to diagnose. As an example its highly unlikely that you applied more pressure with the pistol set on 1 side of the toothline. More likely, every 2nd tooth is slightly lower along the toothline after filing crosscut fleam. If that is the case, then the saw will not run smoothly, but vibrate, as its only cutting from every high tooth. To confirm that, give the tooth line a single light pass with the jointing file. If the jointing file is only picking up high teeth, then you need to give the tooth line another light pass with the jointing file, and repeat if necessarily until every tooth shows signs of being in contact with the jointing file. From that point on, you need to work the back of each tooth to bring them back to a sharp point. (refer to the video I previously posted by Andy of the U.K, on how to address cows and calves). After your done, test the saw again to confirm if its now tracking straight.

    Stewie;
    Last edited by Stewie Simpson; 03-14-2018 at 4:08 AM.

  3. #3
    I will try that as soon as I have the time to get to it again. This sounds like a big possibility, since I did not joint the teeth because it cut good before I sharpened it. I will go back, joint the teeth, and go from there.
    Thanks, Stewie.

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Baker 2 View Post
    I will try that as soon as I have the time to get to it again. This sounds like a big possibility, since I did not joint the teeth because it cut good before I sharpened it. I will go back, joint the teeth, and go from there.
    Thanks, Stewie.
    The problem with filing without jointing is that there is no feedback to tell you when you've removed enough metal. If you start with a uniform toothline and have perfectly consistent technique then you can get away with that, but not so much otherwise.

  5. #5
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    Unless the saw is a "Breasted" type of saw......

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by steven c newman View Post
    Unless the saw is a "Breasted" type of saw......
    The jointing only needs to level teeth relative to their neighbors, so I've always jointed those by just following the overall curve of the breasting. There used to be file holders that would camber the file to match the radius of the breasting, and it would be easy enough to make one, but I haven't bothered.

  7. #7
    Thanks, again, gentlemen. Live and learn.

  8. #8
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    If the teeth are not set uniformly, this can happen. Try gently filing the sides of the teeth on the side the offset is occurring.

  9. #9
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    Because of an old hand injury my sawing tends to drift right when sawing with my right hand. Sawing left handed the saw works fine. That is what brought me to conclude it was the hand on the saw and not the saw. Since this realization my right hand sawing is better, but it still requires my mind to be involved in the cut and the compensation.

    The advise given by others above seems to be on track, but sometimes it helps to put the saw in the other hand and see if it still wanders the other way. If one isn't ambidextrous it will feel a bit strange, but it shouldn't cause any lasting trauma.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  10. #10
    I'll give that a shot, Jim. But after I joint and resharpen. I did not do this the first time, and should have. If I have trouble after that, I'll try the right hand(lefty here).
    The advice about filing the edge lightly I'll keep in mind as well.
    I read somewhere (I thought) about using a stone to do that. Tried that and all I got was no set on the right, although it is possible I was too heavy handed. Tried not to be, but you never know.
    Thanks for all of the advice, all of you. I will give it another shot sometime this week, and report back.

  11. #11
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    I read somewhere (I thought) about using a stone to do that. Tried that and all I got was no set on the right, although it is possible I was too heavy handed. Tried not to be, but you never know.
    Most of my reading has also suggested using a stone. The method was explained as setting the saw on a straight surface and passing a stone without pressing down over the teeth from handle to toe. Only one or two passes before retesting the saw. You mentioned this saw was crosscut, but it is common for folks to file rip teeth from one side. Sharpening can leave a small burr on the sides of the teeth. When all the burrs are on the same side the saw will tend to pull to that side. Even if the teeth are filed from both sides the difference from side to side can cause a bit of wandering. Even a slight change in the rake or fleam can affect the resulting tracking.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  12. #12
    Update on this saw.
    I went back and re set the teeth using a hammer and punch, instead of my Taintor Positive #7. It is missing the spring that opens the handle in use, so I have to re open the jaws manually each time I use it.
    So it looks as though those who suggested something off in the set of the teeth were correct; I assume the Taintor was just too fiddly in use, and I did not concentrate as much as I should have in using it.
    Going to look around and see if I can find a spring to fit that saw set.
    At any rate, the saw now tracks straight and true. Appreciate all of the advice and information.

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