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Thread: Tool Recommendations

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    Elma ny near buffalo
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    Tool Recommendations

    Looking for recommendations for the following:

    1. A good try square, brand/model (accurate for doing fine woodworking). All I have is rough-cut, low precision badly dented and beat construction tools. I primarily want to use this to check the true-ness of soles of my plane, but also for checking the squareness of the face of wood for 90 degrees during the planing process.

    2. A recommendation for a Dozuki (brand/ model). I have a couple older western miter saws. Looking for thinner kerf, but one that could be used to do a miter, tenon, dove-tail, lap joint, or corner spline for picture frames.

    3. A good set of hand carving chisels for surface carving of decoration of picture frames/moldings. I was looking at Flexcut on Rockler's site. But I have been bitten so many times in buying anything modern made. So many goods are typically so magnificently branded and promoted, but are poorly Chinese made using cheap alloys and plastic. Is there a brand of good quality (tough, good steel) carving tools out there? I'm not a millionaire, but neither can I afford to waste money by buying landfill-ready goods.

    Thanks. FWIW, this is an offshoot of my first post here. I'm a noobie trying to learn to make picture frames by hand. I'm getting there. I've got a couple Stanley planes on the way to begin working with to help face surface / dimension my stock. I've figured out how to get quite a good enough miter for now (< 1/32" off). I need to get a better low-angle jack plane to go with my shooting board. (The first low angle block I got isn't going to cut it).

    Just rounding out some of the gear I need to get going better. And I'm about to take the plunge and build my own wood bench. The wife approved my using the basement for this.

    It's gonna be fun!

    A lot to learn, some tools needed to get started. One step forward...

  2. #2
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Britton View Post
    Looking for recommendations for the following:

    1. A good try square, brand/model (accurate for doing fine woodworking). All I have is rough-cut, low precision badly dented and beat construction tools. I primarily want to use this to check the true-ness of soles of my plane, but also for checking the squareness of the face of wood for 90 degrees during the planing process.

    2. A recommendation for a Dozuki (brand/ model). I have a couple older western miter saws. Looking for thinner kerf, but one that could be used to do a miter, tenon, dove-tail, lap joint, or corner spline for picture frames.

    3. A good set of hand carving chisels for surface carving of decoration of picture frames/moldings. I was looking at Flexcut on Rockler's site. But I have been bitten so many times in buying anything modern made. So many goods are typically so magnificently branded and promoted, but are poorly Chinese made using cheap alloys and plastic. Is there a brand of good quality (tough, good steel) carving tools out there? I'm not a millionaire, but neither can I afford to waste money by buying landfill-ready goods.

    Thanks. FWIW, this is an offshoot of my first post here. I'm a noobie trying to learn to make picture frames by hand. I'm getting there. I've got a couple Stanley planes on the way to begin working with to help face surface / dimension my stock. I've figured out how to get quite a good enough miter for now (< 1/32" off). I need to get a better low-angle jack plane to go with my shooting board. (The first low angle block I got isn't going to cut it).

    Just rounding out some of the gear I need to get going better. And I'm about to take the plunge and build my own wood bench. The wife approved my using the basement for this.

    It's gonna be fun!

    A lot to learn, some tools needed to get started. One step forward...

    1. Starrett would probably be a decent choice, i use a Combination Square so cant really say but if the Trysquares are the same quality id get one of those.

    2. Gyokucho Razor Saw, just pick the one you like. I use the model 372 personally, in terms of cut quality best saw i ever used.

    3. Pfeil is the brand you're looking for, highly valued by carvers and a ton of choice regarding sizes and shapes. Prices are reasonable, depending on how large a set you wanna get it does get costly though.
    Last edited by Philipp Jaindl; 03-13-2018 at 10:59 AM.

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    I agree that a 12" combo square is probably the most useful as a first square if you don't have any good ones yet. It can mark 90, 45, and serve as a depth gauge and marking gauge. PEC or Starret with the hardened head are good. PEC also makes inexpensive engineer squares which is what I like to use as a try square. It's nice to have a couple of smaller try squares for things where the combo square is unwieldy.

    For dozukis I can recommend Gyokucho. They are nicely made, reasonably priced and seem to be less fragile than other makes. For a crosscut the model #s are 370 and 371, the difference being the depth of the blade beneath the spine- the 371 is deeper and that's the one I have. There is also a rip-cut (actually combo tooth), model 372. I have this one as well and use it for dovetails.

    I don't have much in the way of carving tools but have never heard bad things about Pfiel.

  4. #4
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    Looking for recommendations for the following:

    1. A good try square, brand/model (accurate for doing fine woodworking). All I have is rough-cut, low precision badly dented and beat construction tools. I primarily want to use this to check the true-ness of soles of my plane, but also for checking the squareness of the face of wood for 90 degrees during the planing process.
    Many of my good bench planes are not perfectly 90º between the sides and their soles. This isn't important for any use of a plane other than shooting. Even there unless it is way out the lateral adjustment of the blade should be enough to compensate.

    Depending on how you work, you may want to have more than one or two try squares. My way of doing things likes to have a try square for each width of lumber normally used. There is also a small one for use with edge jointing. On top of this are a few small ones for checking dovetails and other joinery work.

    If combination squares are used, you may only need two or three. A 12" and a 4" would fit most needs.

    For a recommendation on a Dozuki someone else will have to chime in.

    On the carving chisels my advice is to avoid the inexpensive sets. There are some good sets for general work. The problem may be they are not suited to the sizes you want. My set of chisels/gouges for carving is quite an eclectic set. Some made specifically for carving and others made for finish carpentry or pattern making. They are all useable and mostly bought used on that auction site or at swap meets and such. Buck Brothers made many carving tools and sets. The later ones with plastic handles are not represented in my accumulation. Most are made prior to WW II. Henry Taylor also makes good carving tools. As others have mentioned Pfiel is a highly thought of maker.

    You may also want to look into Mary May carving on Youtube for some pointers on carving and sharpening carving tools.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  5. #5
    I highly recommend the LV steel backed dozuki.
    It's a non-disposable "disposable" saw with an extremely thin kerf and a comfy handle.

    My first one only broke when my friend tried forcing it through plexiglass!!! It's not an axe!

  6. #6
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    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Lau View Post
    I highly recommend the LV steel backed dozuki.
    It's a non-disposable "disposable" saw with an extremely thin kerf and a comfy handle.

    My first one only broke when my friend tried forcing it through plexiglass!!! It's not an axe!
    Some friend, eh?

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Feb 2018
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    Elma ny near buffalo
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    Thanks, Fellas. Just inquired about a Starret 12 combination sq online and looking into Pfeil....boy those sure to look nice!

  8. #8
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    Thank you, Jim. and thank you for letting me know about Mary May...!

  9. #9
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    While we’re all spending your money, I’ll second the suggestion for a smaller square. I use a Starret 6” square more than anything else when checking edges and board ends for square. Given you’ll be making picture frames, 6” should cover the face and sides...probably even a 4” would do. Don’t get me wrong, the combo square will do all you want it to do, and it gives you the 45 degree capability. It’s just sometimes easier when checking multiple times after multiple plane passes to grab a smaller 6 or 4” square for a quick check.

  10. #10
    For carving tools, I would also recommend Pfeil. One thing to watch out for is that there are two systems of marking carving tools - the Swiss system (Pfeil and a few others) and the Sheffield system (Henry Taylor and a few others). The two systems are NOT the same. A #3 in the Swiss system has a different sweep than a #3 in the Sheffield system

    Pick one system and stick with it. I went with the Swiss system.

    Mike

    [And antique carving tools (gouges) may not fit either system.]
    Go into the world and do well. But more importantly, go into the world and do good.

  11. #11
    Pfiels are fantastic. Pricey, though worth it. If you are look to just get into carving, you may try either of these two as well.

    Hand forged chisels. I have several sets of these. I use them for most of my carving.
    pros are that they are sharp, nimble, hold an edge, and can get into tighter spaces or round a curve well. Come sharp and with good bevels for carving.
    Cons: finish is not great, sweeps and sizes are not very consistent
    http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/Mas.../products/136/

    Lamp brand. I have several of these individual chisels. Very similar to the Pfiels. I really like them.
    Pros: finish is good, similar to pfiel, everything is consistent, chisels are very robust. Cons: haven't really found much to criticize. They need a bit more sharpening and the bevel changed slightly when they arrive.
    http://www.woodcarverssupply.com/Lamp-Sets/products/29/
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Mar 2017
    Location
    Forest Lake MN
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    I cant help much on the first one, I use squares I got at box stores and they seem close enough. I wouldnt mind a starret though at some point. Second one I am about equally useless.

    I do carve a lot though. I like pfeil gouges. I would not get a set, get individual ones you need for the carvings you want to do now and then add as needed. I would imagine most are not needed for frame carving. I would think something like a 12/8, 8/10, 5/8, and a 3/something (between 8 and 12) may be a good start, but it really depends on what you are carving and I could be way off.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Britton View Post
    Looking for recommendations for the following:

    1. A good try square, brand/model (accurate for doing fine woodworking).
    Starrett 12" combo square for starters.

    2. A recommendation for a Dozuki (brand/ model).
    Gyokucho is a good brand. Anything on Japan Woodworker.

    3. A good set of hand carving chisels for surface carving of decoration of picture frames/moldings.
    You need to decide between full size or palm. For me, its full size. Not a fan of Flex Cut. Pfeil and Auriou are good brands.

    You also need to develop a good sharpening technique. I use only diamond plates (Dia Sharp). Chris Pye has a nice set of profile hones thru Norton.


    Re: the planes, I hope they are vintage Stanley's and not the modern ones. Also, a standard bench plane will work quite well for shooting end grain. In fact, I prefer to use a #6 over the LA jack. The extra mass is a benefit.

    Good luck on your endeavors. The best advice about tools I can give is figure out what the best is, buy the best you can afford.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Robert Engel View Post

    You need to decide between full size or palm. For me, its full size. Not a fan of Flex Cut. Pfeil and Auriou are good brands.

    ....

    Good luck on your endeavors. The best advice about tools I can give is figure out what the best is, buy the best you can afford.
    For what its worth, go full size. If you need a palm chisel, you can always cut a handle to fit your palm and put it on a full sized chisel. It won't be quite as short, but that is generally a good thing.

    Palm chisels do have their uses, but their uses are very limited. You do not get the same amount of control or a good cutting angle with a palm chisel as you do with a full sized gouge. Tanged chisels are more difficult to do this with (such as the Pfiels and Lamp) but the socket chisels are extremely easy to make a new handle to fit your needs( MasterCarver handforged).

    As for individual sweeps, I might recommend getting the hand forged 13 tool set or the 20 tool detail set. Even if you want to go to the Pfiels or similar, this will give you a good idea of what sweeps and sizes you'll want. The hand forged are priced low enough it makes a bit more sense to do a test with them first, then drop the cash on the sizes you actually need. Not trying to push the Handforged chisels, just figure that it makes it easier to judge what you need when you have something in your hand already, and at 20-25% of the price of the Pfiels, the handforged give you that option.


    Another thought: Depending on the style of picture frame you are planning on building, you might want to consider making a longer molding or a few sticks of molding, then mitering the corners. You'll get professional looking results, and can do some fantastic builds with some simple tools that have a low learning curve. All you'd need for the profiles would be a few molding planes and maybe a scratch stock. ( or a Stanley 45 or equivalent)
    Making furniture teaches us new ways to remove splinters.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Dec 2015
    Location
    Dublin, CA
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    Quote Originally Posted by Bob Britton View Post
    Looking for recommendations for the following:

    1. A good try square, brand/model (accurate for doing fine woodworking). All I have is rough-cut, low precision badly dented and beat construction tools. I primarily want to use this to check the true-ness of soles of my plane, but also for checking the squareness of the face of wood for 90 degrees during the planing process.
    I promised myself I wouldn't wade into this thread, but...

    The PEC and Starrett combos that others have recommended are nice and will get the job done, but since you specified a simple try square, I like the Aluminum-base, steel-blade ones from Shinwa. My 12" square is almost as accurate as my 12" Starrett machinists' square (and more accurate than most combo/double squares).

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