What Wood to match old mahogany dining table and china cabinet??

[Patrick McCarthy]

I am planning to make a buffet/sideboard to add to our existing dining room. Table and chairs are dark mahogany from the 1950's and the china cabinet is dark "looks like mahogany" from the 1980's (?) I understand I will have to learn a bit about tints and dyes, but that is not until the finishing stage. FIRST question has to deal with wood selection: what do you recommend, given the desire to match grain? Is this something where I would use alder because it is a close grain/pore wood and just color it?? Is there a better alternative??

Thanks in advance, Patrick

[John TenEyck]

If they are mahogany I would be thinking about Sapele or Aftrican Mahogany. They will get you the right grain structure. From there, you dye, stain, etc. to match. I can buy both of those woods for about $5.50/BF in any thickness up to at least 8/4.

John

[Patrick McCarthy]

John, I did a Maloof rocker in Sapele. Maybe it was just the stock I was using, but the reversing grain - which gave nice ribbons - also seemed to give it streaks of open pored grain. I will have to go to the lumber yard and see what African mahogany looks like.

I appreciate your input. . . .and enjoy your projects, such as the relatively recent exterior doors.

Best regards, Patrick

[Peter Christensen]

Any reason you don't want to use Honduras Mahogany? I know it's more money but you're worth it.

[John C Cox]

I would use genuine mahogany if you can... It's often lighter colored (more orangey) than Sapele and African Mahogany - which can often run dark chocolate brown... It's much easier to darken wood than lighten it...

Also - the majority of genuine mahogany is farm grown now or coming out of hurricane blow down trees... So it's not as big of a concern environmentally...

In general - it's almost my favorite wood to work.. It just does everything well... It's easy to machine, cut, saw, chisel, and sand.. It takes finish well... It's not too heavy or too hard... Very good stability.. Overall fantastic stuff.

In terms of getting it to look right.....

Select flat sawn stock for your project. Leave the quartersawn stuff for guitar guys. This way - inconsistent ribbon of beeswing quartersawn figuring will not be prominent.. Much easier to match multiple boards...

Use a dark walnut paste wood grain filler before finishing. Wunderfil is a fantastic choiice. Often mahogany is stained with dark walnut stains to get the "classic mahogany" look...

[Patrick McCarthy]

Any reason you don't want to use Honduras Mahogany? I know it's more money but you're worth it.

( hitting my forehead and saying "duh") I guess because I thought it was unavailable, but that is Cuban mahogany that is not available.

[Jerry Miner]

....streaks of open pored grain.

Honduras Mahogany is an open-pored wood. The pores are commonly filled to achieve a smooth surface. Don't be afraid of the open pores. Khaya ("African Mahogany") or Sapele are both good substitutes-- way better than Alder!

Take some close-up photos of your existing pieces and try matching the grain at the lumber yard. Or get a couple sample pieces to take home to see next to your existing.

[Patrick McCarthy]

Gentlemen, thank you kindly for the guidance. Looks like chunks of my money will be going to Irion, Herne and/or Bell . . . . Patrick