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Thread: Drill press help needed asap

  1. #16
    wait- where is my post showing the nut? I found it- near the motor- and took a pic of it. It was missing- and LUCKILY I found it- its 31+MM so its not something I can run over to my local ace and buy- (probalby not) and steel city is gone- so ???? Anyway- I found it. Thanks to everyone! I assumed the drill press was a pig- and working properly, and then I thought it was defective. I didn't think to look for a missing nut- so I learned a valuable lesson- most engineers (like me) don't always use common sense. Ask anyone trying to change a heater core in their car. THANKS AGAIN

  2. #17
    FYI- put nut on- could not get it to go--"would this be a reversed thread nut?" Why of course----so that it always stays tight while the DP is running- which proves it was not ever put on ----(or before I bought it someone was trying to snatch the pulley or something)- So- this is a 1 1/4 inch nut (I didn't have metric that big so not sure what metric size--)30-32 I would guess- anyway- its also reverse thread- so if you lose this nut- you are going to have to improvise because its not something you will easily find.

    Thanks again for all of your help.----Now- I have a working drill press- to prove it- I used a 3" forster and it cut it like it was supposed it- no stopping.

  3. #18
    Join Date
    Jan 2004
    Location
    Lewiston, Idaho
    Posts
    28,504
    Mark,

    For the record on reverse threaded nuts, I bought a new low speed grinder and one wheel wobbled horribly. The problem turned out to be caused by a reverse threaded nut holding that wheel on. The hole in that nut had not been drilled perpendicular to the face of the nut and thus the threads weren't perpendicular to the nut, so only a portion of the face of the nut was making contact with the grinding wheel. allowing it to wobble. I located a reverse threaded nut of the right size at my local ACE hardware. The new nut fit perfectly and the wobble was gone. If you have bearing companies and diesel mechanic shops in the area, they might have local sources for reverse threaded nuts too.
    Last edited by Ken Fitzgerald; 03-09-2018 at 7:49 PM.
    Ken

    So much to learn, so little time.....

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Ken Fitzgerald View Post
    Mark,

    For the record on reverse threaded nuts, I bought a new low speed grinder and one wheel wobbled horribly. The problem turned out to be caused by a reverse threaded nut holding that wheel on. The hole in that nut had not been drilled perpendicular to the face of the nut and thus the threads weren't perpendicular to the nut, so only a portion of the face of the nut was making contact with the grinding wheel. allowing it to wobble. I located a reverse threaded nut of the right size at my local ACE hardware. The new nut fitted perfectly and the wobble was gone. If you have bearing companies and diesel mechanic shops in the area, they might have local sources for reverse threaded nuts too.
    a wobbly nut- wow- ACE had one? I might go buy a spare- this thing came off once- who knows- and it makes the drill press completely useless without it- so its worth getting an extra "just in case".

    Its big and almost looks like pipe threads- I will have to get my little thread gauge out. I like the idea of a set screw- but we can't always have what we want. At least its not a key sheared off woodruff key in the keyway like I originally thought when that was suggested. My luck is like that.

    Thank you again Ken. You have no idea how much i appreciate all of the great help. Mark

  5. #20
    Join Date
    Mar 2009
    Location
    Sterling, Virginia
    Posts
    644
    McMaster Carr. Left hand threaded low strength steel hex nut 1 1/4-12, $4.23 each plus shipping.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,889
    Chrylser used left hand lug nuts until the mid 1960's so many auto parts stores have them.. I think they are the standard 1/2 shaft size. I know I bought one for my grinder years ago.
    They used right hand nuts on the other side so removing a wheel caused many broken studs unless you knew which way to loosen the nuts. After 40 years or so they decided wheel nuts did not come off by themselves and switched to all right hand studs/nuts. Probably gone metric these days anyway.
    Bil lD

  7. #22
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Posts
    577
    Red loctite can be your friend in situations where the nut isn't staying put. Not ideal, but a workaround for a poorly machined part to keep you drilling.
    Jeff

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Sep 2009
    Location
    Putney, Vermont
    Posts
    1,042
    I would use blue or green Loctite to keep the nut from coming off.
    The red Loctite takes a good amount of heat to get the nut off.

  9. #24
    Join Date
    Feb 2007
    Location
    Crystal Lake, IL
    Posts
    577
    I suggested the red because I restore a lot of machines, and have had the "blue" vibrate loose. Whatever tickles your fancy. I tend to err on the side of extreme, as I have acetylene setup, and creating heat for me is a piece of cake. I can easily admit not everyone has the same tooling available. I guess I should have said:

    "Loctite has several products that can be your friend......"
    Jeff

  10. #25
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,596
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by mark stanley View Post
    wait- where is my post showing the nut?
    It is right were you put it..post showing nut
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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