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Thread: Table Saw not starting

  1. #1
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    Table Saw not starting

    Finally got my new Shop Fox 1837 assembled and calibrated! Went to do a test run, and it's not starting. Checked all the usual stuff, but nothing is obvious. Here's hoping it's an easy fix! Got lots to do this weekend.

    Edit: The minimum circuit size is 120v on 20a. The breaker is only 15a. I know nothing of electricity, but could that be the issue?
    Last edited by Justin Foley; 03-09-2018 at 8:49 AM.

  2. #2
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    Starting simple first, the saw is 120v or 240v capable. Did it come pre-wired for one or the other and is your outlet a match for that?
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  3. #3
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    Is the breaker tripping?
    George

    Making sawdust regularly, occasionally a project is completed.

  4. #4
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    Glenn,

    The saw is pre-wired for 120v and can be upgraded to 240v. The issue "could" be related to the circuit size. I have 15a installed now, but it needs 20a to run.

  5. #5
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    George,

    I don't believe so. Usually when the breaker trips, the overhead lights go out. In this case, that didn't happen. I'll take a closer look when I get home.

  6. #6
    Quote Originally Posted by Justin Foley View Post
    Finally got my new Shop Fox 1837 assembled and calibrated! Went to do a test run, and it's not starting. Checked all the usual stuff, but nothing is obvious. Here's hoping it's an easy fix! Got lots to do this weekend.

    Edit: The minimum circuit size is 120v on 20a. The breaker is only 15a. I know nothing of electricity, but could that be the issue?
    The outlet is indeed working? Plug in a power tool there to check.

    It is possible the switch is defective. It happened to me once with a dust collector. It cost me $50...I wish I had known it was a bad switch and I could've replaced the switch myself for $8!

    A 15a circuit can at least start your saw, so it should not be the source of your problem. But it will trip if you push your saw hard...better add a 20a circuit to your panel, especially if you are going to use the saw with an auto switch for your dust collector or vac. Before you call an electrician (it is likely a $200 job), check your panel to see if there may be already a 20a circuit wired to your shop. Sometimes, an outlet or two in the shop (garage?) may be wired to a different circuit breaker.

    Simon
    Last edited by Simon MacGowen; 03-09-2018 at 9:54 AM.

  7. #7
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    The breaker size wouldn't stop it from starting, or attempting to start.
    Are sure that the saw is configured for 120vac in the motor connection box?
    Is there an external thermal trip on the motor that needs to be reset?
    You really need to find out of you're getting power through the switch and to the motor. If you have a DMM it be a big help.
    It is a new saw though, so don't go to far before you call wherever you bought it and send it back.
    "The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by Mike Cutler View Post
    The breaker size wouldn't stop it from starting, or attempting to start.
    Are sure that the saw is configured for 120vac in the motor connection box?
    Is there an external thermal trip on the motor that needs to be reset?
    You really need to find out of you're getting power through the switch and to the motor. If you have a DMM it be a big help.
    It is a new saw though, so don't go to far before you call wherever you bought it and send it back.
    Good points on two fronts:
    - the reset on the motor: try it! It has helped me on more than one occasion.
    - if after some "user-level" attempts and you still have a lemon, call the vendor for help. They may have some diagnostic advice/ready fix. It is not your job to fix a defective machine when bought new.

    Simon

  9. #9
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    Does it make any noise at all when the on button is pushed or flipped? Is it a simple toggle switch or a contactor.
    Bill D

  10. #10
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    Since you indicate other tools work in the outlet, there is power available to the saw. You mentioned that the lights are on the same circuit so they are using some of the available amperage. The saw is rated at 2 HP and requires a 20 Amp circuit. It should start on a 15 amp circuit but will likely trip the breaker when it starts leaving you in the dark. You need a dedicated circuit with 12 gauge wire and a 20 amp breaker to prevent shut downs.

    You don't seem to have much electrical experience so you need to find someone who does to help you trouble shoot the problem. The place you purchased it may have someone who can help or when the electrician you should hire to provide proper power to your saw may be able to help you. The electrician can also check where teh problem is on your saw. Since the saw is new, the warranty should cover any broken parts.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
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  11. #11
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    Where do you live? A fellow creeker ( with a volmeter) my be near and willing to help.

  12. #12
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    If you need to upgrade to 20 amp anyway run at least #10 wire so you can upgrade to 30 amps later if you get a cabinet saw.
    Bil lD.

  13. #13
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    Lee, to say I don't have much electrical experience is an understatement. I can put in an outlet, but that's the about the extent of it! I'm having an electrician install some additional outlets in the garage and will speak with him about a dedicated circuit for the saw.

    Thanks for the help, guys!

  14. #14
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    Check to be sure that the outlet has power. If this outlet is in a garage, it may be on a ground fault outlet.
    Army Veteran 1968 - 1970
    I Support the Second Amendment of the US Constitution

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Dufour View Post
    If you need to upgrade to 20 amp anyway run at least #10 wire so you can upgrade to 30 amps later if you get a cabinet saw.
    Bil lD.
    Darn. Should have done that when I ran my 20a circuit for a MIG last summer.

    Simon

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