Page 1 of 4 1234 LastLast
Results 1 to 15 of 53

Thread: Thickness planer

  1. #1

    Thickness planer

    I am a weekend hobbyist, at best.
    I don't anticipate ever being a master craftsman or producer of the highest quality fine woodwork.

    Been contemplating getting a planer for my tiny shop for a while.
    Since space is limited, I'm probably looking at a bench top/lunch box type.

    Due to practicality and budget, probably looking at lower end tools.

    I have pallets coming out my ears and a saw mill down the road that I'm going to check out.

    Is this something I should even contemplate?

    The impetus for posting now is Harbor Freight has their Bauer 12.5" planer on sale this week for $250.
    I see a Wen at Home Depot for $260
    Porter Cable at Lowes for $269

    Somebody has a Delta for $329 but that's about my upper limit for what I want to spend.

    I'm not interested in getting a used one from Craigslist because I like warranties and (sometimes) credit purchases.
    Also, not mechanically clever to fix things.

    Thanks for any suggestions or input

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2003
    Location
    Rochester, NY
    Posts
    4,717
    Did you look into a DeWalt DW734? That's a well proven unit with good features and performance.
    Happiness is like wetting your pants...everyone can see it, but only you can feel the warmth....

  3. #3
    Only briefly, scott.

    It's $399 at Lowe's which is starting to get to be more than I want to get into.

    I know you get what you pay for.

    Thanks for your input

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
    Location
    West Lafayette, IN
    Posts
    6,529
    Did you see this thread? very similar situation.

    https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....ickness-Planer

  5. #5
    I did a search before posting, Matt.
    I'll check it out.
    Thanks

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,593
    Blog Entries
    1
    I have an older 12.5" Delta Lunch box type planer and it has served me well for the amount of thicknessing I have needed to do for my hobby workshop for over 15 years. However, I would never consider running pallet lumber through it. Pallets get set on the ground and on other dirty areas often with considerable weight on them. They are also pushed by fork trucks across such areas. The chances of embedded grit is quite high and a single piece can nick a set of blades. Also pallet lumber is rarely kiln dried the way cabinet grade lumber is. Often it is heat treated to kill bugs, which is not the same as kiln drying. I know some people use pallet lumber for projects, but I don't and won't.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Oct 2010
    Location
    Mountain City, TN
    Posts
    573
    I wouldn't run pallet lumber through a planer either.

  8. #8
    Thanks for that info, Lee and Bill.

    I saw it on the YouTubes.
    Unfortunately, that has been the biggest source of what I've learned

  9. #9
    It’s just a planer. It’s only job is to make my life easier. I say run the pallet wood through it.
    I have the Dewalt 734 and would highly recommend it. I don’t hesitate to run pallet wood. The worlds not going to end if you do. I just wire brush the dirt off and have at it.

  10. #10
    Thanks, Brad.

    I really love this place since I found it.

    There's such a wide range of outlooks and experience

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Sep 2016
    Location
    Modesto, CA, USA
    Posts
    9,879
    You have to compare the cost of sharpening vs buying wood.
    Bill D

  12. #12
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    Doylestown, PA
    Posts
    7,551
    Low end benchtop planers tend to produce quite a bit of snipe in my limited experience. There are things you can do to mitigate the problem but it'll likely still be there to some extent. Head locks may help but I don't know how many of the low end machines have them.

  13. #13
    Thanks Bill and Curt.

    Bill, you make a good point about sharpening.
    I better check out the cost and availability of replacement blades.

    Curt, I've heard about sniping issues.
    I don't know if the 3 methods mentioned solve the problem or not.
    An additional piece of wood on the front and back, cut final length after planing, or sand the snipe out.

    Of the 4 "candidates" is anyone have any experience with any of them?

    I know Harbor Freight has a bad rep but I've had some good luck with some of their tools.
    Lots of good reviews on the Wen and Porter Cable.

    I may not even get one now but wanted to think about it

  14. #14
    Join Date
    Dec 2006
    Location
    Toronto Ontario
    Posts
    11,247
    The other issue is that you'll need to straighten ( joint) the wood in addition to thicknessing (planing) it.

    You either need a jointer or a planer sled, which isn't as convenient or functional (Edge jointing on a jointer is easier than any method aside from a shaper or moulder).

    I would second the DeWalt planer if you're looking for a low end machine that will work well for you........Regards, Rod.

  15. #15
    Join Date
    Feb 2003
    Location
    McKean, PA
    Posts
    15,593
    Blog Entries
    1
    Quote Originally Posted by Curt Harms View Post
    Low end benchtop planers tend to produce quite a bit of snipe in my limited experience. There are things you can do to mitigate the problem but it'll likely still be there to some extent. Head locks may help but I don't know how many of the low end machines have them.
    My 12.5 Delta lunch box has head locks and initially produced some degree of snipe on longer pieces of wood. What I found was that the in feed and out feed tables, which were aluminum would flex under the overhanging weight of longer pieces ( any lengths over about 3 feet). I built a stand for my planer with a longer in feed and out feed tables and my snipe problem went away unless I was planing boards that were longer than those in and out tables by more than a 3 feet. I can runs boards 6 feet in length with no snipe. You can see the planer table I built in the background of this photo.
    lsfence1.jpg
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

    My advice, comments and suggestions are free, but it costs money to run the site. If you found something of value here please give a little something back by becoming a contributor! Please Contribute

Posting Permissions

  • You may not post new threads
  • You may not post replies
  • You may not post attachments
  • You may not edit your posts
  •