https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....sential-OilpotOriginally Posted by Stanley Covington
Roubo also mentions using oil or grease when mortising.
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https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....sential-Oilpot
Roubo also mentions using oil or grease when mortising.
Guest
A very valid point. Thanks.
Guest
Thanks Warren. Scholar and a gentleman
Friend of the Creek
Stan, Ha! - Skewampus - I’ve been desparately searching for a word to describe some of my mortise work
On a more serious note, thank you for the tips on sizing up the shape of a chisel...very helpful.
Guest
Phil:Stan, Ha! - Skewampus - I’ve been desparately searching for a word to describe some of my mortise work
On a more serious note, thank you for the tips on sizing up the shape of a chisel...very helpful.
One of my Dad's (RIP) sayings. Don't hear it much anymore.
Re chisel dimensions, you are very welcome. It all makes perfect sense, but most of us, including me, don't get it until its pointed out to us.
Stan
P
Contributor
If you drop them on concrete they also chip, probably worse. Just sharpen and carry on with more chopping and less levering. Raise the angle to 30 degrees as you sharpen, it's just a tool; more than likely it will still outlast you!
You can do a lot with very little! You can do a little more with a lot!
Member
I don't know of any chisels that will chop mortises at a 25 degree bevel.... Even PM-V11 calls for a steeper bevel than this...
Paring or general light duty bench work - it's probably more or less OK assuming your technique is good... Mine do better with a 30 degree microbevel for the miscellaneous general use....
Member
Ahh, I see! Paul Sellers recommends one of these for plane bodies and sawing(I generally keep a block of wax on hand for this purpose), never occurred to me to use it on a chisel though.
Thanks Stan and Warren!
Member
An oil pot is now on my list as well...
I had problems with beeswax and canning wax rubbing off on wood and causing weird finish problems, so I quit using it.... Looking back - most likely I just used too much.. Hard to get a super thin film with a thick hard wax.... Watching people use oil on their woodworking tools on the videos - it looks like a super fine coating.. Just enough so you can see the steel darken a bit..
Member
I haven't had much trouble with that, although I've used it mostly for #7 and #8 planes when flattening or edge jointing, by the time I get around to finishing I've taken a smoother to it and I don't use the wax on smoothers.
Contributor
Did it chip while chopping or were you levering out waste? Bench chisels are not made for levering. I'm not 100% sure, but from the pic that bevel looks hollow ground, which will give you a weaker edge generally. A flat bevel is your friend. I know that is not the fashion though. The fashion is hollow grind and and a microbevel finished to .001 micron.
Contributor
Having different bevel angles on different chisels is a good reason to have more than one set of chisels.
My Buck Brothers chisels are beveled at ~20º for paring.
My Witherby chisels are beveled at ~30º for light mallet work.
My firmer chisels and mortise chisels are ground 30º or more depending on where they are intended to be used.
jtk
"A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
- Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)
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https://sawmillcreek.org/showthread....sential-Oilpot
[OP]
Member
Thanks all for the great advice! I took the excuse to order the set of 3 Narex mortise chisels from AmazonI'll try sharpening them with a convex bevel.
The wood is Poplar btw so not too hard, after reading your comments though I'm pretty sure I was just abusing it by twisting to try and clean the bottom of the hole.
Member
Man, I have all kinds of old beater chisels in addition to my Lie Nielsen chisels.
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