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Thread: painting my dear cabinets

  1. #1

    painting my dear cabinets

    Time has come to paint the cabinets I've been building. I previously got some help from folks on here, looks like the time has come to get over my fear. looking for advice!


    I've been building cabinets in preparation for the bathroom (which is now imminent) and i'm really happy with how they are coming out. alas they are so nice I'm afraid to paint them! I painted one vanity I built with a graco 360 and Sherwin Williams snap dry (https://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...oor-trim-paint) and had issues with with orange peel and pulses showing in the paint. The paint was going on too thick.

    Our trim is painted with Sherwin Williams ProClassic Waterborne Interior Acrylic Enamel (https://www.sherwin-williams.com/hom...acrylic-enamel) and ideally we would like the same finish on the cabinets.

    BONUS ROUND: I made a built-in cabinet (1st of 3) which won't fit through the door - it needs to get painted, if I can spray indoors with minimal overspray that would be great. doors and drawers can go outside.

    I'm not looking for more tools at the moment (rare case) however, if I need to get a turbine setup then be it so, though I would like to keep it under $650 with the tip needed if that is possible.

    Please help, open to all ideas as I'm looking to do this right.

    I have the following:

    graco X5 - lots of tips, works great for walls and ceilings, still struggling with overspray which is likely a setup issue on my part

    graco 360VSP hand held - used this for the vanity and had some orange peel, felt it went to thick. this only has two tips available which I believe are .15 - I have seen the sprayer modified to take RAC IV tips which I don't mind doing
    30 gallon air compressor 6.2 SCFM at 40 PSI and 5.3 SCFM at 90 PSI https://www.tractorsupply.com/tsc/pr...r-30-gal?rfk=1 I have a water extractor laying around, so that isn't an issue


    thanks!

  2. #2
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    The SW Pro Classic is one of my favorite paints to apply with a good brush. It levels very nicely and works well. If you like, add some extender for a bit more wet time. If you paint your doors laying flat they will looks very nearly as good as a sprayed finish without the "fear". Might take you 2 or 3 hours to hand paint your cabinetry. Sand lightly between coats and by tomorrow they'll be done.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Sam Murdoch View Post
    The SW Pro Classic is one of my favorite paints to apply with a good brush. It levels very nicely and works well. If you like, add some extender for a bit more wet time. If you paint your doors laying flat they will looks very nearly as good as a sprayed finish without the "fear". Might take you 2 or 3 hours to hand paint your cabinetry. Sand lightly between coats and by tomorrow they'll be done.
    any experience with extender and a foam roller? For the built in cabinets the walls would stay vertical - is that an issue using extender?

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by pascal young View Post
    any experience with extender and a foam roller? For the built in cabinets the walls would stay vertical - is that an issue using extender?
    The Pro Classic is not anywhere near as thin as the Benjamin Moore Advance. Will paint vertical surfaces well without drips. I don't like foam rollers as they tend to add air to the product but I have used small short nap rollers with success. I don't recall that adding extender ever gave me trouble with vertical surfaces (except with BM Advance). The secret is not to over apply. With the extender, at least, you can come back and tip off any sagging with a good brush for good effect.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  5. #5
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    I also use ProClassic for this kind of application and like Sam, use a good, high-quality brush to apply it. Brush marks are rare because of now nicely it levels. I used ProClassic to repaint my kitchen cabinets not long ago as re-spraying in the shop was out of the question for already installed units. When I do spray in the shop, I use Target Coatings EM6500 tinted to the SW or BM color of choice directly from Target. In fact, I'm literally in the middle of a set of upper kitchen cabinets and began applying color coats two days ago.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  6. #6
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    Sam, when you say "extender" which specific product are you referring to? Thanks.

    John

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I also use ProClassic for this kind of application and like Sam, use a good, high-quality brush to apply it. Brush marks are rare because of now nicely it levels. I used ProClassic to repaint my kitchen cabinets not long ago as re-spraying in the shop was out of the question for already installed units. When I do spray in the shop, I use Target Coatings EM6500 tinted to the SW or BM color of choice directly from Target. In fact, I'm literally in the middle of a set of upper kitchen cabinets and began applying color coats two days ago.
    I used a low nap, small roller and then tipped off my cabinets with SW proclassic. they look great and have held up well. be aware, it may flash off fast, but its really not totally cured to the point you can scrub on it for about a month. When its hot, i kept the paint in the fridge so that it did not dry as i applied. thin a bit with water for the last coat.

  8. #8
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    Quote Originally Posted by John TenEyck View Post
    Sam, when you say "extender" which specific product are you referring to? Thanks.

    John
    Right now, the product I have on hand is Benjamin Moore EXTENDER. I added it to the Pro Classic last time I used it and it seems the "proprietary" nature of this product did not compromise the Sherwin Williams paint. Pretty certain that SW has their own.
    "... for when we become in heart completely poor, we at once are the treasurers & disbursers of enormous riches."
    WQJudge

  9. #9
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    Thanks very much Sam.

    John

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I also use ProClassic for this kind of application and like Sam, use a good, high-quality brush to apply it. Brush marks are rare because of now nicely it levels. I used ProClassic to repaint my kitchen cabinets not long ago as re-spraying in the shop was out of the question for already installed units. When I do spray in the shop, I use Target Coatings EM6500 tinted to the SW or BM color of choice directly from Target. In fact, I'm literally in the middle of a set of upper kitchen cabinets and began applying color coats two days ago.
    Jim what do you use to spray the Em 6500?

  11. #11
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    Quote Originally Posted by bruce buren View Post
    Jim what do you use to spray the Em 6500?
    HPLV Conversion Gun.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  12. #12
    thanks guys. I'm going to give the airless another wag when it warms up. Thinking I might bite the bullet on a mini-mite 4 - just not a 100% confident on shooting the SW PC through it.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by pascal young View Post
    thanks guys. I'm going to give the airless another wag when it warms up. Thinking I might bite the bullet on a mini-mite 4 - just not a 100% confident on shooting the SW PC through it.
    Fuji units have a pressurized cup at the same pressure as the atomizing air, IIRC, around 8 psi. You should have no trouble spraying ProClassic with it if you use a suitable N/N, something around 1.5 mm would be a good place to start. Add some Extender if it won't flow out quick enough.

    John

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