DC Cyclone Decision. Am I silly to go 5hp?

[John Lanciani]

If you add a small deck to the extension you can move the stairs to the side. This would let you back up to the edge with a pickup/trailer/tractor to unload/load the barrels. Easier than trying to carry them down the stairs. I would get a few extra barrels and lids so you can quickly swap them out while working.

Or a ramp instead of stairs so that you can use a hand truck.

[Andrew Seemann]

New plan is to build an exterior raised shed with a roll up door for entry. That will give me a straight path for the 8" main down the center of the shop. I'm still undecided whether to go spiral pipe or ASTM-2729 but all runs are 6" to the machines even if reduced at the machine to 4".

I did a mix of spiral pipe and straight pipe for my dust collection system (it was what I had on hand) and have worked with a fair amount of PVC, and if I got to pick which one I would use for a DC system, I would take the spiral pipe in a heartbeat.

Spiral pipe is just heavier enough than straight pipe to make it easy to clamp and sawzall, but not so thick as to be difficult to work with. The straight pipe was a nightmare of tinsnips and cut fingers.

Unlike sewer pipe, the fittings for spiral pipe are actually made for dust collection so you aren't jerry rigging everything to make it work. Also if you screw it together and seal with aluminum tape, it is much easier to modify than if everything is solvent welded.

[Tom Dixon]

Or a ramp instead of stairs so that you can use a hand truck.

If you add a small deck to the extension you can move the stairs to the side. This would let you back up to the edge with a pickup/trailer/tractor to unload/load the barrels. Easier than trying to carry them down the stairs. I would get a few extra barrels and lids so you can quickly swap them out while working.

There is no access for any kind of vehicle on that side of the shop. Those stairs will be 5.5" high 17" deep and 5' wide. I doubt I'll have much trouble getting the sawdust and shavings down them but I'll consider the ramp idea. There's nothing but woods behind the shop for acres so I can dump it, mulch it or burn it.

[Tom Dixon]

Or a ramp instead of stairs so that you can use a hand truck.

I did a mix of spiral pipe and straight pipe for my dust collection system (it was what I had on hand) and have worked with a fair amount of PVC, and if I got to pick which one I would use for a DC system, I would take the spiral pipe in a heartbeat.

Spiral pipe is just heavier enough than straight pipe to make it easy to clamp and sawzall, but not so thick as to be difficult to work with. The straight pipe was a nightmare of tinsnips and cut fingers.

Unlike sewer pipe, the fittings for spiral pipe are actually made for dust collection so you aren't jerry rigging everything to make it work. Also if you screw it together and seal with aluminum tape, it is much easier to modify than if everything is solvent welded.

Yeah I keep gravitating towards the Spiral pipe but I've been toying with the idea of whether you could use a mixture of spiral and PVC. For instance Spiral pipe and fittings for for the main trunk and possibly the diagonal runs but use PVC going down the walls and maybe the diagonal runs. I'm just unsure if the diameters will match up well enough to join 6" PVC to a 6" spiral elbow or wye and I haven't yet found a local place to get 6" ASTM-2729. 4" is available at Lowes cheap.

[Martin Wasner]

If you're doing a cyclone, just put the barrel underneath so your bin is at ground level. You'd have to extend the connection between the barrel and the cyclone, but flex hose works well for that.

[Jim Becker]

I agree with Martin...as long as the conduit between the bottom of the cyclone and the bin is completely sealed...it can be as long as necessary. I helped a friend install her cyclone on the second floor of her shop and we put the bin directly below "in" the shop for convenience.

[Matt Lau]

Let me throw another option...I've been thinking of the same problem.

1. Why not do a Clearvue and buy parts as needed and upgrade?
You can buy/make a cyclone and attach to the motor of your choice and an impeller.
2. If it's vented outside, no need for HEPA.
3. If cyclone is outside and you don't have klepto neighbors like mine, you don't need to worry about noise.

But yes, I'd totally go for 5 hp....says the guy who only has fancy shopvacs for dust control.

[Mike Heidrick]

Cv rated for uv light exposure outside?

[Chris Parks]

I sold dozens of CV's that are permanently outdoors on mobile test labs, four even went to Mongolia!

[Tom Dixon]

Or a ramp instead of stairs so that you can use a hand truck.

Let me throw another option...I've been thinking of the same problem.

1. Why not do a Clearvue and buy parts as needed and upgrade?
You can buy/make a cyclone and attach to the motor of your choice and an impeller.
2. If it's vented outside, no need for HEPA.
3. If cyclone is outside and you don't have klepto neighbors like mine, you don't need to worry about noise.

But yes, I'd totally go for 5 hp....says the guy who only has fancy shopvacs for dust control.

In Tennessee moisture from humidity and the rust it causes is a big issue for me. Venting outside with no return air will force a lot of unwanted moisture in the shop. I run a dehumidifier constantly and try to keep the shop humidity below 50%. The exterior shed will be sealed and insulated and there will be a filtered return duct or two so I won't draw in outside air. Venting outside for me is not an option.

Although not truly "outside" the closet shed approach should eliminate the majority of noise, especially if I baffle the air return. I probably will not be able to hear the DC over the tablesaw noise if I do it right.

As for the Clearview, I've rejected it already for various reasons not the least of which is I don't want a project cyclone DC. I know a lot of folks are passionate about it, but it's not the cyclone for me.