DC Cyclone Decision. Am I silly to go 5hp?

[Darcy Warner]

Many reasons for the extra expenses, motor quality, electrical control quality, fit and finish. I don't trust most manufacturers numbers on cyclones. They usually over state it. When you see that 400 cfm difference between those two, right away I believe Oneidas numbers more.
Aget is always rated on the low side, but they are everywhere so something must be right about them.

[Bob Falk]

It would be prudent to wire for a 5hp. I believe you can run the 3hp on the heavier wire (with appropriate breakers) if you decide to go that way.

[Larry Frank]

I tested my Oneida 5 hp cyclone with a hot wire anemometer and created a performance curve. The numbers I got were just slightly lower than the Oneida curve. I believe their data to be good.

[Jim Andrew]

I had a 2hp cyclone, then upgraded to a 3hp cyclone, and added an outside dump, which helps performance significantly, but had I to do it over would go 5hp. Clearview has the biggest impeller, so would consider that, although I do not relish the idea of having to assemble the blower housing.

[Martin Wasner]

I honestly don't think the Oneida Dust Gorilla Pro at $500 more than the Grizzly G0442 is a better value. I'm not sure why some of you guys keep pushing me in that direction. In a side by side comparison the Griz has double the filter surface area and comparable performance characteristics but the Oneida has a smaller inlet at 7" as opposed to 8" or even 10" without the adapter collar. The only feature the Oneida has that the Grizzly doesn't is the Smart circuitry and I'm completely unconvinced that it is worth it or even necessary. It seems to me more like a gimmick that will be likely to break down after the warranty is up and cost mega $$$ to fix. At this point I'm more inclined to hold off the cyclone purchase and use the money I have and purchase some other tools on my must have before retirement in 5 to 7 years list. I can continue to move my seven year old 2hp G0548 around from machine to machine for another year and circle back for another stab at it later hoping the cyclone landscape improves or someone actually does a science based comparison of 5hp cyclones in a woodworking magazine.

Thanks for all the input. The only thing I've actually decided from this post is to go 5hp over 3hp. When and which brand now is the question. I'm still mulling it over more confused than I was before.

Why? You asked about Grizzly, which some people think the world of I do not, and were offered other options that are pretty close in price.

As somebody who makes living at this, Grizzly is far too expensive for me to consider. I can just about guarantee everything about the Oneida would be superior over the Grizzly.

[Alan Lightstone]

Very happy with my 5hp Oneida.

[John C Bush]

I have the Griz 2hp cyclone~13 yrs now- and as a hobbiest that mills a lot of rough stock it has worked well for me. 20" planer, 12" jointer, 25" drum sander, 21" BS----. Seven inch main to 6" drops(9' ceiling) to 4" flex to machines. I likely would have purchased an Oneida but I live 1 1/2 hr from Griz Bellingham Wa. so it was a cost no brainer for me. It's in an attached shed, wall mounted so no stand needed and no noise issue. I was able to mount to have a straight run from intake to main and 55 gal collection drum on wheels fits just right beneath. I think the 3 hp would provide more than adequate DC. Not sure of future CNC cfm needs tho.I used 26ga. snaplock HVAC pipe with mostly HVAC fittings but used official wide radius 90's (was able to source from wholesale distributor) for better airflow. Prices for spiral ducting was significantly higher. I also have the Ecogate automatic gate system that opens and closes the gates as you move from machine to machine. If future addition of a CNC doesn't add significant cfm demand I'd suggest going with the Griz 3hp cyclone, with snaplock pipe, etc,. and spending the savings on gate automation. The Griz has worked well-problem free-and the autogates are sweet to have when busy milling. I just need to remember to check the drum more often. Good luck shopping.

[Art Mann]

If Oneida is so quality conscious, then why is their least expensive line of cyclones made out of cheap molded plasitc while all the other brands are made of metal? The price is the same or more expensive than competing brands even though the cost of manufacture is a lot less. Value is as much an issue with me as quality.

[David Kumm]

Oneida uses the best motor IMO, a good quality Baldor. Their cyclone is a pretty basic design. The CV design with a helical baffle is similar to the design of the commercial Torit, Dustkop, Sternvent, Aget type cyclones. Their motor is a lighter frame to keep the weight down with a smaller shaft and bearings. A long narrow offset entry is also preferred for commercial units but more expensive to manufacture so hobby cyclones compromise the separation to keep the cost down. I've bought used commercial cyclones pretty cheap and they are more complicated to manufacture and not a bad alternative. The impellers are also much heavier and have taper lock bushings to ease removal. CFM comes at the price of noise. The more quiet the unit, the lower the pressure the impeller requires for airflow. The straighter the blades, the higher the pressure but that also requires more hp and creates more noise. Because most impellers are low pressure, a larger diameter, higher hp motor is needed, not so much to deal with machines with 6" ports, but those with smaller ports and greater restrictions inside the machine. A saw with a 5" port but 3" flex inside is an example. Life is a trade off. Dave

[Jim Becker]

Art, I think that Oneida decided to explore an alternative material design, particularly for home shop users and because of the success of firms like ClearView. A molded resin material also provided the opportunity to refine some of the air flow characteristics that would be difficult in metal. I'm not sure that "cheap molded plastic" is an accurate description of the product offer, either...

[glenn bradley]

DC threads are always lively.

+1 on:

• 5HP is a good idea
• Elevate the blower to avoid/minimize the riser
• Diagonal main from a corner or mid-long-wall placement seems like a better ducting solution
• 6" to the machine or as close as you can get
• Closet for the DC
• Non-metal parts are a non-issue

Oneidas are nice but, I have run a G0440 almost daily for nearly a decade. I did have to replace a starter cap for $25 but, I was cycling the DC a lot; changed habits, no issue since. ASTM-2729 ducting has been great but, probably only reasonable for 6" and down. Lightweight,e asily reconfigurable and inexpensive at the time I did it; the price is about double now.

[Mike Heidrick]

I have a G0638 10hp cyclone and it electronics are super nice. It has a programable timing start circuit, remote start, multiple contactors for the start and run circuits and is switchable from 230v 3ph to 460v 3ph with just an overload swap. Its made in tiawan so while not a baldor motor it still has a very stout motor setup. The motor and impeller setup and intake tub weigh in at 665 lbs of the 1100 lbs total, the cyclone body itself is over 6' tall, the entire machine is over 12' tall, the impeller is something like 18.5" dia, cyclone has a 12" intake, and you can hose off the industrial filters literally with a water hose. Id not blow off all griz cyclone machines before seeing all of them in person.

[Tom Dixon]

DC threads are always lively.

+1 on:

• 5HP is a good idea
• Elevate the blower to avoid/minimize the riser
• Diagonal main from a corner or mid-long-wall placement seems like a better ducting solution
• 6" to the machine or as close as you can get
• Closet for the DC
• Non-metal parts are a non-issue

Oneidas are nice but, I have run a G0440 almost daily for nearly a decade. I did have to replace a starter cap for $25 but, I was cycling the DC a lot; changed habits, no issue since. ASTM-2729 ducting has been great but, probably only reasonable for 6" and down. Lightweight,e asily reconfigurable and inexpensive at the time I did it; the price is about double now.

New plan is to build an exterior raised shed with a roll up door for entry. That will give me a straight path for the 8" main down the center of the shop. I'm still undecided whether to go spiral pipe or ASTM-2729 but all runs are 6" to the machines even if reduced at the machine to 4".

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[Jim Becker]

Tom, you may need to go with the spiral or other metallic duct if you buy the higher performance cyclone and it's designed for a larger main than just 6". The issue with plastic duct is that the sizing tends to be limited to "even numbers" and larger than 6" gets even more difficult to find and pricy. I'm not familiar with the DC you're considering, but it's good to hone the specifications of your duct work to insure the best performance across the board.

[Peter Christensen]

If you add a small deck to the extension you can move the stairs to the side. This would let you back up to the edge with a pickup/trailer/tractor to unload/load the barrels. Easier than trying to carry them down the stairs. I would get a few extra barrels and lids so you can quickly swap them out while working.