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Thread: Veneering Melamine Vertical Surfaces

  1. #1

    Veneering Melamine Vertical Surfaces

    Hello all,
    I would like to apply paperbacked veneer to shiny most likely melamine. I will be sanding the surfaces with 100 grit sandpaper. The surfaces are vertical.

    Can anyone suggest the type of adhesive I will need? I was thinking about this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza

    Thanks very much

  2. #2
    Join Date
    Mar 2003
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    San Francisco, CA
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    10,319
    You might want to look into peel-and-stick veneer. For instance http://www.tapeease.com/PSA_veneer_sheets.htm

  3. #3
    100 grit is ok ,but make sure you don't go thru the melamine. I like the plastic resin glue because can be used thin and won't make a bumpy surface. Oops ,if the material is already installed vertical ,your first choice is better
    Last edited by Mel Fulks; 03-02-2018 at 11:24 AM. Reason: better detail

  4. #4
    The wife wants white cabinetry. Right now they are red oak. I could build the cabinets but I don't have the time right now.

    We're having an addition put on to the house and the kitchen cabinets are coming into play. Cost is a major consideration. I'm going to make new doors. I did a veneer job once on mdf. It came out nice. I've read the horror stories about melamine.

    The builder wants to put in thermofoil cabinets. I'm not going to swap out one crap cabinet for another crap cabinet.

  5. #5
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    West Lafayette, IN
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    Could you clarify what the existing cabinets are and what you want? I assume you want white as you said your wife wants that. How about painting them?

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    I used contact cement to glue paper backed veneer on the end panels of my Melamine kitchen cabinets. That was 22 years ago and they are still fine. I can't remember if I was smart enough at the time to sand the Melamine first, but that would be a good idea.

    I can tell you that epoxy doesn't work unless you completely sand off the Melamine. Last Summer my friend sanded some end panels to scuff up the coating then used West Systems epoxy to glue on 1/16" shop sawn Sapele veneer. This Winter they have peeled off like potato chips. He'll be using PSA veneer for the repair. I did some Melamine panels with epoxy but sanded off the coating completely before gluing on the 1/16" shop sawn veneer. 3 years later they are still fine.

    John

  7. #7
    Agree with Jim on thermo foil , very disappointing to see peeling foil that doesn't reveal some good chocolate

  8. #8
    Join Date
    Apr 2006
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    Phoenix AZ Area
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    I had issues a long time ago with rosewood veneer (no paper back, thicker like veneer uses to be) applied with solvent based contact cement. No problem on the application. I used Watco oil to finish and months later the contact cement started to fail. I concluded that the oil in the veneer weakened the contact cement.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mel Fulks View Post
    Agree with Jim on thermo foil , very disappointing to see peeling foil that doesn't reveal some good chocolate
    I like what you did there...

    ------

    OP, abrade and contact cement would be what I'd try, but thoroughly sanding the thin Melemine/foil off would be my first choice before trying to apply veneer.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Aug 2011
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim wise View Post
    Hello all,
    I would like to apply paperbacked veneer to shiny most likely melamine. I will be sanding the surfaces with 100 grit sandpaper. The surfaces are vertical.

    Can anyone suggest the type of adhesive I will need? I was thinking about this one https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B0...k_ql_qh_dp_hza
    That contact cement contains some pretty unpleasant organic compounds so I wouldn't use it indoors http://www.dap.com/media/52081/00030536001english.pdf

    Also paper-backed veneer will telegraph the slightest irregularity in the substrate or glue application. Phenolic-backed material would probably be the better choice.

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2005
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    West Lafayette, IN
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    What am I missing? From what I gather he’s got red oak cabinets and is going to make new doors. Why isn’t paint an option?

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by Matt Day View Post
    What am I missing? From what I gather he’s got red oak cabinets and is going to make new doors. Why isn’t paint an option?
    The cabinet end panels and edges are most likely melamine. I don't like the idea of painting them; thinking the paint may peel. I have a sheet of red oak veneer that I have had for a long time. I figure I would veneer the cabinet sides and edges and then paint them white.

    The cabinet doors are oak but are outdated cathedral style doors. My wife wants cabinets in the shaker style. I'll make new doors.

  13. #13
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Kelly View Post
    That contact cement contains some pretty unpleasant organic compounds so I wouldn't use it indoors http://www.dap.com/media/52081/00030536001english.pdf

    Also paper-backed veneer will telegraph the slightest irregularity in the substrate or glue application. Phenolic-backed material would probably be the better choice.
    Yes, I'm aware of the fumes. I'll be refacing the cabinets in the spring time, with the windows open. Hopefully the stink will dissipate quickly. I contacted a couple of manufacturers of water-based contact adhesives and both didn't recommend their products.

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    I like what you did there...

    ------

    OP, abrade and contact cement would be what I'd try, but thoroughly sanding the thin Melemine/foil off would be my first choice before trying to apply veneer.
    The Wife and I live in Montgomery Co, PA.

  15. #15
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by jim wise View Post
    The Wife and I live in Montgomery Co, PA.
    Howdy, Neighbor! 'Hope the storm didn't hurt too much in your neighborhood.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

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