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Thread: Where do I start on this veneering project?

  1. #1
    Join Date
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    Where do I start on this veneering project?

    In the past, I have used PSA (self-adhesive backed) veneer for a number of projects. However, I had been collecting pretty bits of unbacked veneer with the expectation that someday I would have a vacuum press (which I still don't have). Now, I need to veneer some 6x6" panels and using the PSA-backed veneer is not really a good idea in this application. Since the size I need to work at is fairly small (6x6"), is there some reasonable way to apply unbacked veneer to birch ply that doesn't require a vacuum press or a true veneer press?

  2. #2
    Join Date
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    Make some cauls out of MDF to spread the pressure and just clamp the heck out of it. Cut your veneer slightly oversize and trim it after the fact.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  3. #3
    I would put plastic bag material between each assembly. Other wise you might end up with a big paper weight

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by Ty Williams View Post
    In the past, I have used PSA (self-adhesive backed) veneer for a number of projects. However, I had been collecting pretty bits of unbacked veneer with the expectation that someday I would have a vacuum press (which I still don't have). Now, I need to veneer some 6x6" panels and using the PSA-backed veneer is not really a good idea in this application. Since the size I need to work at is fairly small (6x6"), is there some reasonable way to apply unbacked veneer to birch ply that doesn't require a vacuum press or a true veneer press?
    I stick small pieces like that with regular wood glue and a hot iron. Coat veneer and substrate with glue and apply heat to the face of the veneer. Press it just like you would a shirt. This is also a great way to do edging and Dutchmans.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by johnny means View Post
    I stick small pieces like that with regular wood glue and a hot iron. Coat veneer and substrate with glue and apply heat to the face of the veneer. Press it just like you would a shirt. This is also a great way to do edging and Dutchmans.
    Do you let the glue dry before you iron the two pieces together?


    Also, I just realized I have an 9x12x3 granite surface plate that weighs 26lbs. Since it's bigger than the project, I can just set it on top of the panel+veneer. Is 26lbs enough weight?

  6. #6
    Join Date
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    You can do the iron on glue method, but it is more work and not necessarily the best option for what your trying to do. As mentioned for such small pieces a couple pieces of mdf and 4 clamps are quick easy and sufficient. When I do multiples, even with a bag, I use kraft paper between so as to not get into trouble If your using multiple pieces of veneer on the blocks, careful edging and blue tape work in a pinch to get nice clean lines.

    If you do go the iron on method coat both pieces well, let dry fully....(couple hours), then iron on. Iron temp depends on the type of glue you use. If you using TB products they have this info available on their website somewhere. it's an interesting technique I've only used once, and it was for a piece way to large and difficult to get into a bag. Basically a 7' x 64" L shape....that was tricky.

    As for 26 pounds being enough weigh, I doubt it. That doesn't mean the veneer won't be stuck to the substrate, it will. But not likely a good solid flat bond.

    good luck,
    JeffD

  7. #7
    Join Date
    Nov 2013
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    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Make some cauls out of MDF to spread the pressure and just clamp the heck out of it. Cut your veneer slightly oversize and trim it after the fact.
    I think Jim has the right idea here. 6x6 is fairly small and you can get plenty of clamping pressure with regular clamps and cauls. I’ve done much larger projects in a similar fashion with no issues. The thicker the caul(s) the better the clamping pressure will be distributed over the veneer. I would also recommend veneering both sides of the substrate.

  8. #8
    +1 on the iron on method. If you're using raw veneer it will most likely curl when you first apply the glue but will mostly flatten after the glue dries. You'll also want to cut the veneer over-sized and trim flush after the application. I usually let the glue dry about an hour before ironing without steam.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    Hot hide glue. Easy, fast and has stood the test of time.

  10. #10
    Join Date
    Jul 2014
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    SE PA, Central Bucks County
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    Don't forget the balance veneer on the back.

    http://www.joewoodworker.com/veneeri...-veneering.htm

  11. #11
    Join Date
    Dec 2010
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    WNY
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    What Keith said. Hot hide glue. Perfect project size.

    John

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