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Thread: Adhesive for Starboard

  1. #1
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Dawson Creek, BC
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    876

    Adhesive for Starboard

    I suspect I know the answer to this is no, use screws, but I thought I would ask.

    I am building a sign for someone that has many inlaid letters. The sign is made of starboard. I know they have a welding kit, but I am not too keen on dropping $900 for that. Has anyone had any luck with an adhesive like liquid nails or something else holding up in an exterior application? I can use screws from the backside, but an adhesive would save time and frustration.

    Thanks

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  2. #2
    Join Date
    Jul 2005
    Location
    Sammamish, WA
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    7,584
    That’s a tough one, not much sticks to HDPE. One product called Scotch-weld by 3M is supposed to work, but. I haven’t tried it. Much better to do a mechanical installation. What I would do is to save some of the paint, drill countersunk holes and screw in, then fill using epoxy, sand and touch up. When up high on a wall no one will notice. You could also do a French cleat, perhaps steel, screwed into the back. When hanging, use JB Weld or E6000 between the two pieces of the cleat.



    Sammamish, WA

    Epilog Legend 24TT 45W, had a sign business for 17 years, now just doing laser work on the side.

    "One only needs two tools in life: WD-40 to make things go, and duct tape to make them stop." G. Weilacher

    "The handyman's secret weapon - Duct Tape" R. Green

  3. #3
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Dawson Creek, BC
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    876
    Thanks Joe. That is what I decided to do. I can easily hide all of the screws from the back and I will not need to do any painting. All the parts are not in the picture. There is two pieces of black plastic that the bottom letters inlay into and there is a french cleat that goes behind the assembly to attach to the masonry wall. They want the sign proud of the wall for perimeter lighting.

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Dawson Creek, BC
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    150 little screws later, and it is ready to be hung on the wall.

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  5. #5
    That's a fantastic looking sign Brad. Super nice work.
    Sometimes I just want to look at pretty pictures,... Thats when I go to the Turners Forum

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Oct 2007
    Location
    Dawson Creek, BC
    Posts
    876
    Thanks Mark. They should have it up in a few days.

  7. #7
    Just for future reference:

    From King Plastics 'website FAQ page:

    Can adhesives be used to bond King StarBoardŽ ?

    We are frequently asked how to apply and use adhesives with our products. We want to remind you that generally, bonding polyethylene with adhesives does not result in a permanent structural bond, like mechanical fastening or welding. Please determine the suitability of using an adhesive yourself with proper testing. Again, we do not represent these products, or make any claims about their abilities or accept liability for them.
    • If you need to use an adhesion process, make sure you have everything you need for the treating.
    • A sheet of one hundred and twenty-grit sandpaper.
    • A cleaning solvent such as Acetone, Toluene or Alcohol, and a propane torch
    • Your selected adhesive of choice and appropriate clamps to secure the bonded parts without damaging the finish of the King StarBoardŽ.
    • Proper surface preparation of your polymer is critical when using adhesives.
    • First, lightly sand the King StarBoard surfaces to be bonded with one hundred and twenty grit sandpaper. Now, clean the surface with a solvent, such as Acetone, Tolulene or Alcohol. Allow solvent to fully evaporate. Move solvent and other flammable liquids and materials away from work area.
    • Following the operating cautions of your propane torch, ignite the flame.
    • Working in a safe and well-ventilated area, hold the torch so the flame is approximately one to two inches (or two and a half to five centimeters) away and the blue, oxidizing portion of the flame is on the King StarBoard surface to be bonded. Pass the flame over the surface at a rate of approximately twelve inches (or thirty centimeters) per three seconds.
    • Total time the material should be exposed to the flame should be two to three seconds, about one half second per stroke.
    • This light exposure should not deform or melt the polymer in any way. You may see a “shadowing” effect as the flame passes across the surface, this is normal.
    • Make sure to let the polymer cool before proceeding.
    • Test the effectiveness of your flame treatment of the surface by wetting it with water.
    • If the water beads up like on the surface of a freshly waxed car, the treatment was not effective. If the water “sheets” or lays flat on the surface, like on an un-waxed car, the treatment was effective and the surface is ready for bonding. If you are unsure if the surface is ready, compare the water’s action on treated area with the untreated area.
    • For the best adhesion, bond the product within thirty minutes of treatment as the flame treatment is temporary and declines in effectiveness with time. If you get interrupted and cannot complete the bonding within an hour or two then you should re-treat the surface again before proceeding.
    • Then following the instructions from the adhesive manufacturer apply the glue evenly to the surface in a back and forth motion, generally hold back from spreading the adhesive all the way to the edge to avoid making a mess.
    • Apply the pieces to be bonded together, making sure they are positioned correctly then lightly clamp in place. Ideally wipe off any excess adhesive that may have squeezed out before it cures.
    • Let the bond cure for the manufacturers recommended time frame before removing the clamps.

    http://www.kingplastic.com/faq/
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