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Thread: Sawstop Injury I didn't think this could happen.

  1. #16
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    I am sure this guy didn't buy the SS with the dust collection blade guard. The guard must be left on in order for the overarm dust collection to work. The only time that guard should come off is when one uses a dado blade, or uses a cross cut sled, or when sawing thin strips.

    I still don't understand why people keep saying the guard obstructs the viewing. Viewing is done before you switch on the saw.
    Or non-through cuts, or cutting narrow material, there are legitimate reasons to take the blade guard off, but that's not all the time and if you watch virtually all YouTube videos, and probably just regular table saw users, that blade guard is off, probably all of the time. But for people who are buying a Saw Stop specifically for safety, then refuse to use the safety equipment that came with their saws in the first place... that makes no sense at all.

  2. #17
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Henderson View Post
    Or non-through cuts, or cutting narrow material, there are legitimate reasons to take the blade guard off, but that's not all the time and if you watch virtually all YouTube videos, and probably just regular table saw users, that blade guard is off, probably all of the time. But for people who are buying a Saw Stop specifically for safety, then refuse to use the safety equipment that came with their saws in the first place... that makes no sense at all.
    I leave mine in place till I get down to about 2 inch rips. I then use my microjig gripper thingy.

  3. #18
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    I don't want to sit through 12 minutes of video discussion. What happened to his thumb?
    JR

  4. #19
    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Henderson View Post
    Or non-through cuts, or cutting narrow material, there are legitimate reasons to take the blade guard off, but that's not all the time and if you watch virtually all YouTube videos, and probably just regular table saw users, that blade guard is off, probably all of the time. But for people who are buying a Saw Stop specifically for safety, then refuse to use the safety equipment that came with their saws in the first place... that makes no sense at all.
    Agreed. It is like driving recklessly just because the airbags are there....

    Anyone operates a SS with an unsafe mentality will sooner or later get hurt by another non-SS machine such as a jointer or mitre saw.
    Simon

  5. #20
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.R. Rutter View Post
    I don't want to sit through 12 minutes of video discussion. What happened to his thumb?
    Cut across the top, got some stitches.

  6. #21
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    For me, the takeaway is that it shows why SawStop doesn't like those kinds of blades. Where there would normally be teeth, which the brake bites into, there are just rounded humps, which the brake can't engage, so the blade travels longer. With a regular blade, I'm guessing his injury would have been much less.

    I'm not gonna get into whether not using a blade guard makes you a moron. You pay your money and you take your chances, up to you.

  7. #22
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    This guy ignored rule #1--"don't push your body parts into the blade." Instead he relied on a contraption to protect him.
    This mentality is one of my great fears regarding all the new car safety features. "Its OK if I text. My car will steer and brake for me".
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Harvey Miller View Post
    Any of evidence that more Sawstop owners do this than owners of other brands?
    I think not.
    I was going to ask for a show of hands but, Saw Stop threads get goofy enough without my help. Brian is making a rather sweeping and generalizing statement but, I think it is primarily for effect. I doubt he really thinks 9 out of 10 Saw Stop owners who used all the safety gear on their previous saw remove it once they buy a Saw Stop. This doesn't mean there aren't some buyers who erroneously think "There, now I don't have to use my guard anymore". For my part I use my tablesaw safety gear on my Saw Stop just like I have on every other saw. I chose the saw itself. It competes well with other saws in its class and price point; it just happens to come with a safety feature. I don't want my saw or my car to start thinking for me .
    Last edited by glenn bradley; 02-26-2018 at 7:14 PM.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  9. #24
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Cut across the top, got some stitches.
    Thanks.

    So the anti-kickback extensions prevent the brake block from grabbing as quickly? Good to know!

    When I got my thumb a couple of years ago, the blade was gone under the table before it could do more than scratch me (no blood). And yes, I normally have a Biesemeyer overarm guard, but was doing a cut with board on edge and it was swung out of the way, lol.
    JR

  10. #25
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    Quote Originally Posted by J.R. Rutter View Post
    Thanks.

    So the anti-kickback extensions prevent the brake block from grabbing as quickly? Good to know!
    Yup, and it makes sense. I've been surprised that apparently quite a few SS owners aren't aware of this. My saw came with a separate sheet of paper with a picture of this type of blade and a warning about it not stopping as fast. I know Freud and Amana make them, not sure who else. (Also don't understand what it is about the "humps" that prevents kickbacks.)

  11. #26
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brian Henderson View Post
    Exactly the case and why I have no sympathy for a lot of people who get injured. Taking the safety equipment off of your saw except when absolutely necessary and then operating unsafely, that's your fault not the saw's. If you're that stupid, you deserve what you get. But what's the first thing most Saw Stop owners do when they get their "safe" saw? They take off the blade guard!
    Really?? Sad you feel that way...

    Some of you guys are so smart. The reason I got kicked off Woodnet. Don't know comments...

  12. #27
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    Quote Originally Posted by Nick Decker View Post
    Yup, and it makes sense. I've been surprised that apparently quite a few SS owners aren't aware of this. My saw came with a separate sheet of paper with a picture of this type of blade and a warning about it not stopping as fast. I know Freud and Amana make them, not sure who else. (Also don't understand what it is about the "humps" that prevents kickbacks.)
    The 'humps' are chip limiters. This limits the amount of material that can be grabbed whick limits the strength of the kickback. Very useful for low tooth count blades especially.

    I didn't sit through much of the video. I have seen too much of this and similar injuries. If your machine has a guard, use it. If it is too awkward, replace it as John Tenyck so rightly pointed out. There are no excuses.

    How about we do our emergency ward staff a favour and help them avoid PTSD by avoiding accidents through arrogance that says "It won't happen to me."

    Cheers
    Every construction obeys the laws of physics. Whether we like or understand the result is of no interest to the universe.

  13. #28
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    I watched the video to see what he did wrong and to make sure I wasnt doing it.

    He came to the correct conclusion, yes use a guard. His saw is new and has an ok guard but I'd recommend getting a better one that incorporates dust collection. My General came with a crappy guard and I never used it. I bought a Shark Guard and use it religiously even if it means switching splitters. I've never understood the need to watch the blade cutting the wood to the point where I'm not watching what my hands are doing. I concentrate more on what my right hand is doing and that the wood is up against the fence. My left hand is helping to feed the wood and goes to the rail right above the shut off when not needed. I'm really careful removing cutoffs on repetitive cuts. I make the cut pushing the wood through the blade, remove my right hand and then worry about the cutoff. I'll shut the saw off it necessary if the piece is small or stuck under the guard. I've seen really dicey cuts with the regards to removing the cutoff on youtube.

    I think the SawStop saved his thumb.

  14. #29
    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Carlson View Post
    I've seen really dicey cuts with the regards to removing the cutoff on youtube.

    I think the SawStop saved his thumb.
    Seen it all the time...blade coasting down and waste being removed with a bare hand -- with no guards installed. 10 tablesaw caused finger amputations happen EVERYDAY for a good (bad!) reason.

    Simon

  15. #30
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    I can't figure out why he felt a need to move his left hand with the workpiece. I keep my left hand anchored to the table well behind the blade and only use it to guide the stock against the fence. Tommy MacDonald demonstrated this technique on one of his Rough Cut shows and had a small perspiration stain on the table top where he anchors his hand.

    I also use a magnetic featherboard once I have two parallel edges and my left hand never goes in front of the featherboard. The push stick in my right hand is the only thing that moves stock.

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