I shared this (first 30 secs) in another tread which has since been locked that seems to contradict the teacher's teaching:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qqp3nr2FKEE (Caution: Try this at your own peril)
Simon
I shared this (first 30 secs) in another tread which has since been locked that seems to contradict the teacher's teaching:
https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Qqp3nr2FKEE (Caution: Try this at your own peril)
Simon
Jack,
Those HSE regs are pretty minimal compared to the BGMH or Suva. When I get time I will see if the safety books I have are online. HSE is better than what we have here for OSHA though. Those regs are really crazy.
One thing about safety is it is up to the individual. I have top safety gear in my shop and was always amazed at how different employees would apply the safety techniques for good or bad…
One shop we visited in the UK was using immigrant labor, Lot of crazy stuff and missing fingers in that shop. They had the HSE posters everywhere but don't think those guys looked at them.
I spent some time in a Chinese shop setting up a CNC shaper. More crazy stuff going in that shop as well. Contrast that to the month I spent in Bhutan setting up a shop. Third world country where the sidewalks in town are dangerous. The shop had a lot of very dangerous unguarded setups but the people there took a real interest in working safely. some accidents over the years but not bad for 60 people working in a crowded shop.
Hard to argue against safety but still up to the individual regardless of the regs.
If you Find those joe Online it would be awesome but I imagine there are more suited to all of the instruments and fixtures required to use long sliding tablesaws in more traditional manners. Like the fritz and Franz fixtures. As you know Joe I’m strictly vantage but I do like to see and adopt Modern safety advancements. It is hard to argue against safety . Knock on wood still got all my fingers
jack
English machines
I used to drive a car without seat belts, no ac, no power windows, yes timing belt, and among other things, yes cigarette lighter (keyless ignition? What the heck was it?).
Big deal? No, but I would rather walk (or bike) than getting into a car as described above now.
While years ago you made your own table saw, years ago I made my dining table good for 10 with a tablesaw. My competency? 0 as a tablesaw maker; 10 as a table maker.
Simon
I was taught never to use a full length fence in combination with a cross cut guide. He should clamp a piece of scrap to his fence back at his starting point so that as soon as he starts his cut the end of his stock toward the fence is no longer touching. His "safer" technique still leaves a good chance of binding if his fence isn't exactly parallel to his blade and cross cut guide.
Lee Schierer
USNA '71
Go Navy!
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Ding ding ding you win. I’ll also note that he also did not lock off the Brett crown guard so had he had a kickback the guard would’ve moved sideways and he would’ve hit the blade. Of course a sliding plate fences would not need to have a piece of wood clamp and would merely be slid back to do as you described. I was wondering how long it would take for someone to describe what he did wrong.
jack
English machines
What was wrong?
Didn't Pat just confirm: been there, done that...even without using a miter gauge. Please don't spread the fear.
Jokes aside, this seemed to be how this guy justified the use of the sawfence as a stop block (apparently when he ran out of reasons (including been there and done that(?)):
"Just grabbing peopled attention."
Simon
Narrow strip ripping on a table saw that is lacking a riving knife is very problematic. feeding thin strip with a push stick that are 1/4" wide is not safe ether in a long fence . some will cut the thin strip off the out side of a wider board but have to set the fence each time .
If you need to rip strips as small as .025" one tenth the thickness of 1/4" that are the same size and accurate you can make a simple fixture that uses the same short fence idea
and riving knife principals but is home made. Some like to have the cutoff fall to the out side/waste side of the cut but this means you have to move the fence for each cut. this fixture is easy to set up and you don't change the setting
photo3_zps4ed994a1.jpg
all this is is a piece of flat stock keyed to the miter slot and a front stop with the blade cut up through. when you set it up to cut thin strips screw down a temporary piece flush with the right side of the blade as the back fence . Then lay your strip that your would like to cut(this one is set to cut .025") against the left in feed side of the blade screwed down the short fence , the in-feed short fence to stop just in front the saw blade about one inch into the cut .
photo2_zps6fec1d0a.jpg
you put the back splitter fence right behind the blade with the wedge pushing the thin strip off cut away from the rising back teeth of the blade and off the same board you screws down to the (cut line) this gives suport of the work and you have a short and long fence so all should be happy. and a crown guard can be used. this is when very precise thickness is needed like in inlay work
photo1_zps81a2c1a5.jpg
don't blink you may miss something LOL
Last edited by jack forsberg; 07-21-2018 at 6:24 PM.
jack
English machines
jf--pretty clever solution.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
+1
Good and safe solution.
Simon