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Thread: Sawstop Injury I didn't think this could happen.

  1. #271
    Follow up question: How could you get the short fence parallel to the saw blade?

    Simon

  2. #272
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    Good stuff Jack!

  3. #273
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    Follow up question: How could you get the short fence parallel to the saw blade?

    Simon
    You always align the saw blade to the miter slot and the fence to the same miter slot.
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  4. #274
    Quote Originally Posted by Lee Schierer View Post
    You always align the saw blade to the miter slot and the fence to the same miter slot.
    True...but the short fence is screwed to the jig and how could one be sure the short fence is parallel to the miter slot?

    Simon

  5. #275
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    True...but the short fence is screwed to the jig and how could one be sure the short fence is parallel to the miter slot?

    Simon
    This is too easy using common measuring tools normally found in the shop.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  6. #276
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    I've just modified my fences to use an extrusion like the Euro sliders. You can slide the fence to match your needs for each cut. They are always parallel once adjusted and not difficult to add to an existing fence. I do the same thing to my resaw bandsaw fence. I run a Bies with a high fence that can be moved or removed. Dave

  7. #277
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    This is too easy using common measuring tools normally found in the shop.
    Could you please elaborate?

    I could use the saw fence which is parallel to the saw blade as a guide, but I am hoping for a method that dispenses with measuring if possible, keeping measurement inaccuracy to a minimum.

    In addition, Jack uses the jig to "rip strips as small as .025" one tenth the thickness of 1/4"; I wonder if he might have a clever way of doing his set-up precisely. so the strips are cut to uniform thickness.

    Simon

  8. #278
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    SM--simply rip a piece of scrap as a spacer to align the table slot runner to the edge of the jig, which was made parallel to the blade slot by the use of the fence.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  9. #279
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    Thanks for posting about that jig, Jack. Looks like something I'll make use of, as opposed to the usual SawStop thread noise.

  10. #280
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    SM--simply rip a piece of scrap as a spacer to align the table slot runner to the edge of the jig, which was made parallel to the blade slot by the use of the fence.
    Thanks, Andy.

    I will look into this further.

    Simon

  11. #281
    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    Follow up question: How could you get the short fence parallel to the saw blade?

    Simon
    photo3_zps4ed994a1.jpg

    this is the under side of the fixture with a runner that fits the t slot of the saw. this edge is parallel to the blade and flat stock . a simple sliding t square (better still a digital caliper) from this edge keeps thing running smooth and parallel . large holes with headed screws allow for fine adjustment .
    jack
    English machines

  12. #282
    Quote Originally Posted by jack forsberg View Post
    Narrow strip ripping on a table saw that is lacking a riving knife is very problematic. feeding thin strip with a push stick that are 1/4" wide is not safe ether in a long fence . some will cut the thin strip off the out side of a wider board but have to set the fence each time .

    If you need to rip strips as small as .025" one tenth the thickness of 1/4" that are the same size and accurate you can make a simple fixture that uses the same short fence idea

    and riving knife principals but is home made. Some like to have the cutoff fall to the out side/waste side of the cut but this means you have to move the fence for each cut. this fixture is easy to set up and you don't change the setting

    Attachment 390065
    all this is is a piece of flat stock keyed to the miter slot and a front stop with the blade cut up through. when you set it up to cut thin strips screw down a temporary piece flush with the right side of the blade as the back fence . Then lay your strip that your would like to cut(this one is set to cut .025") against the left in feed side of the blade screwed down the short fence , the in-feed short fence to stop just in front the saw blade about one inch into the cut .

    Attachment 390066
    you put the back splitter fence right behind the blade with the wedge pushing the thin strip off cut away from the rising back teeth of the blade and off the same board you screws down to the (cut line) this gives suport of the work and you have a short and long fence so all should be happy. and a crown guard can be used. this is when very precise thickness is needed like in inlay work

    Attachment 390068

    don't blink you may miss something LOL
    Man that's cool. Thanks. I can see cutting guitar bindings with this, inlay....

  13. #283
    A bit of history on the saw guarding . Not that new !!

    Well designed riving knives started to come into UK before WWI (1901) such as this M Glover & Co patent rip saw guard as an after market safety devise. that became mandatory on rip saws in the late 1920?

    and this 1906 write up in Engineering Weekly, 05 Jan 1906, pg 17

    Some very serviceable features have been incorporated in the improved design of saw-bench illustrated below. The frame is made all in one casting. The table top rises and falls, being carried by four turned rack pillars which slide in four corner brackets machined to receive them, and cast solid with the frame.
    The bearing nearest the saw is fixed upon strong brackets cast in the frame and can be bodily removed and replaced in a few minutes. A massive bracket carries bearing for spindle outside the pulleys, which rests on a ledge, and is not only bolted to the frame but extends to the floor as an extra foot.
    The bearings are fitted with interchangeable and reversible brasses. The spindle is of steel with lock-nut arrangements for at once taking up the wear and rattle which otherwise frequently annoy and interfere with good work. The loose pulley is about 1 in. in diameter less than the fast pulley, but has a taper flange leading up to the larger fast pulley so that the belt never hesitates to work from one to the other. This device allows the belt to be slack when on loose pulley, which lengthens its life and saves the bush of the loose pulley considerably, besides insuring the belt always being tight in work on the fast pulley.
    The belt guide is worked from the front, close to the operator's hand and automatically fixes itself, thus it cannot be moved except deliberately, and it is impossible for the belt to get on to the wrong pulleys and cause accident.
    The guide fence can be swiveled to any angle; it is specially well supported, being capable of taking in wide sawing and has also a fine screw adjustment for most accurate work; it also swings quite out of the way leaving the bench top free for wide or curve sawing.
    The table-top can be fitted with extra sliding fence for angle work, which may at once be adjusted to an index and speedily removed. The gearing is neatly enclosed inside the frame, being thus protected from the sawdust, and out of the sawyer's way.


    GloversPatentIdealSawGuardFig60_zpsaa777e67 (1).jpg


    these illustration are in a book published in 1902-1904 called " The Modern Carpenter & Jointer" [2] and illustrate "best safe practice" of the period. See also the short rip fence which became standard British practice for rip saws after the 1897 "workmen Compensation Act" [1] in the UK the over head crown was mandatory by the late 20s and all saw makers supplied the short rip riving knife and guard on new rip saws.


    here is one on a Stenner and Gun



    In conclusion i think it was M golver & co of Leeds that are responsible for the earliest guards in the UK








    [1]http://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Workmen...ation_Act_1897

    [2]http://catalog.hathitrust.org/Record/011827617


    http://www.gracesguide.co.uk/M._Glover_and_Co


    this post is just for entertainment meant and in hopes of not spreading any miss information )

    jack
    English machines

  14. #284
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    Quote Originally Posted by Simon MacGowen View Post
    What was wrong?

    Didn't Pat just confirm: been there, done that...even without using a miter gauge. Please don't spread the fear.

    Jokes aside, this seemed to be how this guy justified the use of the sawfence as a stop block (apparently when he ran out of reasons (including been there and done that(?)):

    "Just grabbing peopled attention."

    Simon
    Simon, my understanding is that trapping material between saw and fence can result in a dangerous situation. It’s dangerous even on bandsaws.

    If the wood drags on the fence it can move out of square.
    Bumbling forward into the unknown.

  15. #285
    Clear now. Thanks,

    Simon

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