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Thread: Shaping Hard Maple Legs

  1. #1

    Shaping Hard Maple Legs

    C.S. has inspired me to try making some staked furniture. I didn't have any Oak, red/white or otherwise in the wood pile but I did have a hunk of Hard Maple of the correct size for the legs. For the seat I found a piece of Cherry with a kinda live edge that was big enough to use.

    Here is the jig/leg holder I'm using to shape the legs. I've two down and the third in the jig is about 80% shaped. BTW, shaping Hard Maple is work .

    From the front:

    legShapingNumber3180224dscf2402.jpg

    From my POV:

    legShapingNumber3Rear180224dscf2404.jpg

    I'll finish this one and the fourth leg before going to the lathe to do the tenons.

    ken

  2. #2
    Those are some really nice shavings, i didnt think id ever see a Plane like that outside of Europe, looks to me like an ECE Model but not certain. The Wooden planes are a bit trickier to set up then the Stanleys but once you get the hang of it its really no problem. I gotta say the more i use the Wooden planes the more i like them, probably partly down to 99% of planes being Wooden ones here aswell as the weight.

    The Jig reminds me of the ones used in Thicknessers to taper legs, though im certain its more of a workout doing it by hand.

  3. #3
    Quote Originally Posted by Philipp Jaindl View Post
    Those are some really nice shavings, i didnt think id ever see a Plane like that outside of Europe, looks to me like an ECE Model but not certain. The Wooden planes are a bit trickier to set up then the Stanleys but once you get the hang of it its really no problem. I gotta say the more i use the Wooden planes the more i like them, probably partly down to 99% of planes being Wooden ones here aswell as the weight.

    The Jig reminds me of the ones used in Thicknessers to taper legs, though im certain its more of a workout doing it by hand.
    Philipp,

    Thanks, You have a good eye. It is a ECE "Jack" plane, frankly I can't see the difference between it and the smoother and both cost $110 USD at Highland. The ECE traditional planes are one of the real woodworking bargains, a new, light, maneuverable, comfortable to hold plane with good iron for just over 100 bucks that works as well as any metal body plane, it is a real no brainer.

    Yep, this old guy has to take a few breaks along the way.

    ken

  4. #4
    Quote Originally Posted by ken hatch View Post
    Philipp,

    Thanks, You have a good eye. It is a ECE "Jack" plane, frankly I can't see the difference between it and the smoother and both cost $110 USD at Highland. The ECE traditional planes are one of the real woodworking bargains, a new, light, maneuverable, comfortable to hold plane with good iron for just over 100 bucks that works as well as any metal body plane, it is a real no brainer.

    Yep, this old guy has to take a few breaks along the way.

    ken
    The difference between what we call Schlichthobel aka "Jack" Plane and the Putzhobel aka Smoother is for one the Jack has only a simple Iron and Wedge where as a Smoother also has a Chip breaker, the Smoother also usually has a steeper Bed angle 50° instead of 45°, a tighter mouth aswell as being shorter then Jacks.

    The real Jackplanes are called Rauhbank and are pretty long probably about 500 to 700mm, theres also a Doppelhobel "Double-plane" literally translated which is just a Schlichthobel with a Chip breaker essentially.

    German Plane terminology can get a bit confusing, i hope that clears something up and not make it more confusing.

    Really interessting to see the Prices differ so much, i guess its to be expected with imports, a ECE Schlichthobel costs here about 65€ while the US or UK makes are way more expensive.

  5. #5
    Quote Originally Posted by Philipp Jaindl View Post
    The difference between what we call Schlichthobel aka "Jack" Plane and the Putzhobel aka Smoother is for one the Jack has only a simple Iron and Wedge where as a Smoother also has a Chip breaker, the Smoother also usually has a steeper Bed angle 50° instead of 45°, a tighter mouth aswell as being shorter then Jacks.

    The real Jackplanes are called Rauhbank and are pretty long probably about 500 to 700mm, theres also a Doppelhobel "Double-plane" literally translated which is just a Schlichthobel with a Chip breaker essentially.

    German Plane terminology can get a bit confusing, i hope that clears something up and not make it more confusing.

    Really interessting to see the Prices differ so much, i guess its to be expected with imports, a ECE Schlichthobel costs here about 65€ while the US or UK makes are way more expensive.
    Philipp,

    The ECE "jack" or smoothing plane is about 90 Euros here in the States.

    The State's "Jack" has a cap iron just like the smoother, like I said I can't see much difference between the two if any. Back when I first started working wood I bought a ECE jointer and scrub along with a couple of Record planes, all of which I still use. I also have a ECE coffin smoother with a cap iron, it is a great smoother but I can not find it offered in the States.

    ken

  6. #6
    Just as I feared, figured, best guessed, I knew it would but did it anyway, the Cherry top split. I don't know if you can see but the top left and bottom right mortises have split almost full length of the top.

    topSplit180225dscf2406.jpg




    Problem is I didn't have any Poplar or other split resistant wood of the correct size in the wood pile and I did have this Cherry cut off. This was a trial build so what the hell, might as well use the Cherry. The good news is the legs are fine and all I have to do is make another top out of a wood that does not split as easily as Cherry. The other good news is I learned a bit about chair making which bottom line this is about. Baby steps dontcha know.


    ken

  7. #7
    Quote Originally Posted by ken hatch View Post
    Just as I feared, figured, best guessed, I knew it would but did it anyway, the Cherry top split. I don't know if you can see but the top left and bottom right mortises have split almost full length of the top.

    topSplit180225dscf2406.jpg




    Problem is I didn't have any Poplar or other split resistant wood of the correct size in the wood pile and I did have this Cherry cut off. This was a trial build so what the hell, might as well use the Cherry. The good news is the legs are fine and all I have to do is make another top out of a wood that does not split as easily as Cherry. The other good news is I learned a bit about chair making which bottom line this is about. Baby steps dontcha know.


    ken
    From the photo, I suspect there was a good reason the thing was an off-cut. On the other hand, I have to ask: have you thought about a repair with a bit of epoxy? And if you do, make up enough to do something with that knot, too.

    It's all fun.
    Fair winds and following seas,
    Jim Waldron

  8. #8
    Quote Originally Posted by James Waldron View Post
    From the photo, I suspect there was a good reason the thing was an off-cut. On the other hand, I have to ask: have you thought about a repair with a bit of epoxy? And if you do, make up enough to do something with that knot, too.

    It's all fun.
    Jim,

    Yep, there was a reason. That was also why I used it, this was more about process than finishing a build.

    It's cold here in the desert today, I expect that hunk of Cherry will be very good at warming my hands and backside.

    ken

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