Adjustable Sticking Board

[Derek Cohen]

I have been asked by my WW club to do a demonstration on the Veritas Combination Plane. It seemed like a good reason to overhaul my sticking board this afternoon - this is one I use for smaller pieces and drawer parts. I thought that if it turned out well, I would make a long version.





What's new? Well, the screws at the left front, that acted as stops, have been replaced with a solid serrated stop ...








This was inspired by a recent modification to my bench, when I added a serrated steel planing stop to a dog ...





The article is here: http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ShopMad...aningStop.html


The underside of the sticking board now has non-slip. This is available in rolls for stair treads.





I needed to try the sticking board out with the Veritas Combo Plane. The first demonstration would be a simple groove for a drawer side or drawer front. The wood is Hard Maple ...





Start with thin shavings at the end, and work back to the beginning. Once the groove is established, take coarser cuts ...





This is a very straightforward joint with the grain. Easy peasy ...





I turned the board around to complete the second demonstration, which will be a bead ...





... and noted that the last third of the side was reversed grain ...





The board was just a piece from the scrap box, and it had been milled with a helical thicknesser/planer. I had not planed it after this, and when I ran a block plane up the side edge to create a slight bevel to reduce the work for the beading blade, I noticed this tearout ...





Now if I went at this with a standard plough setup (45 degree cutting angle), I am pretty certain that the board would suffer a lot more tearout. This is the difficulty with using plough planes to create beads (or other mouldings) - you really need to selected straight grain boards. Its the reason I tend to use a beader, such as the Staney/LN #66, or a scratch stock.

[Derek Cohen]

Recently I had the idea to add a 15 degree micro backbevel to these blades to create a 60 degree cutting angle. This is written up here:http://www.inthewoodshop.com/ToolReview ... Plane.html

So, trying this out here: Again, starting at the end, and taking light cuts ...



I thought that I had got it all. The surface looked pretty good ...



... but with raked lighting I could see it was still torn out. I think that this was the original tearout. It is hard to tell if I added more.



The tearout was a lot shallower than it appears here, and only needed a few passes with a scraper to be gone ...



I was happy with the results so far ..



Now can I do dados on a sticking board?

Regards from Perth

Derek

[glenn bradley]

As usual Derek, thanks for taking the time and the pics. Good stuff!

[James Waldron]

Waiting for those dados!

(Nice show. Thanks.)

[lowell holmes]

I have lh and rh Veritas skew rabbet planes as will as the small plow plane with most of the cutters. Does the combination plane do anything I can't do with the planes that I have?

Rob Lee should be ashamed of himself.

[Jim Koepke]

I have lh and rh Veritas skew rabbet planes as will as the small plow plane with most of the cutters. Does the combination plane do anything I can't do with the planes that I have?

Rob Lee should be ashamed of himself.

The combination plane can handle bigger blades.

On my projects some of the work is done by a Stanley #50 which is like the small plow plane in action. The #50 works fine for cutting a slot for a box or drawer bottom.

Other work is done using a Stanley #45 which is more like the Veritas combination plane in its abilities. If something bigger than ~1/2" is being cut the #45 has the larger size to handle the more demanding jobs.

jtk

[James Pallas]

Derek, I ve seen your board in the past and every time I tell myself to make one. I forget and than need a board and end up rigging something again. Great idea to add sawtooth stop. Do you have different fences for it? Have you found that you need more screws(stops) and the end? Maybe this time I will finally build one. Thanks for showing again.
Jim

[Derek Cohen]

Hi Jim

The sawtooth stop is about 2.5mm high. It is all that is needed. I have added a second position if working a wider board, however I doubt that it will ever be necessary as the off-centre holding of the stop is amazingly good. Screws are now irrelevant. The fence is out of the way, and low enough at the front to avoid any interference. The rear is high enough for thicker worker pieces. So far I have not needed more. I have not made crown moulding on this yet, just smallish pieces, or smaller drawers. Also it is used for demos. I now plan to make a large version.

Regards from Perth

Derek

[lowell holmes]

Sigh** I guess I will have to order one,

[Mike Allen1010]

Derek,


Are you sure you're not an engineer?


Once again, you're sticking board, like all your other shop built tools, made immediately, unavoidably apparent to me that in comparison, my shop built equivalents are flimsy, vaguely designed/built Rube Goldberg contraptions that in hindsight, it's not surprising they rarely function as well as I'd hoped.


All that said as preamble to expressing my appreciation/admiration for your fundamentally well-designed and elegantly executed shop tools/appliances. In the same way I don't know crap about figure skating, but can recognize/appreciate brilliance when I see it, I have no clear vision for how to build the tools/shop appliances you consistently make, but once I see yours, I want to come to your house and beg you to make one for me!


Thanks again for sharing your work – always a pleasure.


All the best, Mike

[Derek Cohen]

As always Mike, you are my best advertisement. I need to hire you on a more permanent basis. Let me know when you are over this way, and we will discuss terms over a beer.

Regards from Perth

Derek