Doctor's Walnut Oil

[Edward Weingarden]

Can a walnut oil finish be buffed? Does the oil eventually cure? Thanks.

[David Delo]

Doctor's has become my favorite finish for most of my bowl work. I usually wait about 10 days to 2 weeks before buffing. Some people wait longer. I've done a few pieces after a shorter period of time and haven't noticed any adverse effects.

[Edward Weingarden]

Thanks David

[Ted Calver]

I'm still working on my first gallon of oil from Doctor's and it has been curing quite well for me in a couple of weeks.

[Bill Blasic]

I'll be the odd fellow out here as I have both Mahoney and the Doctors Walnut Oil and without a doubt Mahoney's oil cures way faster than the Doctors.

[John K Jordan]

I'll be the odd fellow out here as I have both Mahoney and the Doctors Walnut Oil and without a doubt Mahoney's oil cures way faster than the Doctors.

Curious, have you compared the finish with Mahoney's and Doctor's, for example without buffing? I prefer a satin sheen rather than gloss but I've never tried walnut oil.

JKJ

[Mike Nathal]

Both heat and light accelerates the curing. In summer I put my pieces on my patio table for a couple of afternoons. In the winter I put pieces in my kitchen oven on the "warm" setting -- 145 F for a few hours.

I was surprised how much lighter in color the Doctors oil is compared to Mahoney.

[Reed Gray]

I can't say that I have noticed any curing time differences with the Doctor's or Mike's, but I do prefer the wax mix in The Doctor's mix. It is all I use any more. I have taken an old incandescent bulb and put it under curing bowls on the wire racks. Seems to help.

robo hippy

[Peter Blair]

ok, fpr those that buff any of these oils. Do you dedicate buffing wheels? It always seemed to me that I wouldn't want oil residue on the buffs that I use for lacquer or WOP?

[Edward Weingarden]

Pete:
That's an excellent question. I wouldn't want to soil any of my buffing wheels.

[John Keeton]

The few utility bowls I do are always “finished” with walnut oil. I wet sand with walnut oil through 400 grit, then spin the bowl faster with 0000, then with a rag with a wax/walnut oil mix - all on the lathe. No need to buff at that point.

[Ralph Lindberg]

I can't say that I have noticed any curing time differences with the Doctor's or Mike's, but I do prefer the wax mix in The Doctor's mix. It is all I use any more. I have taken an old incandescent bulb and put it under curing bowls on the wire racks. Seems to help.

robo hippy

The way they work and look I think Doc's has more wax and less oil, while Mike's has more oil and less wax.

I often put Mike's down first, then the 2nd coat is Doctors. Then buff

[Edward Weingarden]

Maybe I'll get the oil/wax mix and apply as John does; the buffing wheels won't enter the equation.

[Bill Blasic]

I use walnut oil for that which is to be food based use. I have once used it (Mahoney's oil) on a highly figured piece and buffed it, I would call it an in between satin and matte. Felt great and slightly improved the figure but I think it would have sold sooner with a gloss finish. I have never buffed Doctors (bought a gallon and have used less than 8 ounces).

[Mike Nathal]

If the turning is a utility piece, buffing is not worth the time. I usually buff (Beall system) if the piece is an artistic item and I really like the sheen produced and the surface is velvety smooth. If the oil is cured there is no effect on the wheels.