Can a walnut oil finish be buffed? Does the oil eventually cure? Thanks.
Can a walnut oil finish be buffed? Does the oil eventually cure? Thanks.
Doctor's has become my favorite finish for most of my bowl work. I usually wait about 10 days to 2 weeks before buffing. Some people wait longer. I've done a few pieces after a shorter period of time and haven't noticed any adverse effects.
Member Turners Anonymous Pittsburgh, PA
Thanks David
I'm still working on my first gallon of oil from Doctor's and it has been curing quite well for me in a couple of weeks.
I'll be the odd fellow out here as I have both Mahoney and the Doctors Walnut Oil and without a doubt Mahoney's oil cures way faster than the Doctors.
Both heat and light accelerates the curing. In summer I put my pieces on my patio table for a couple of afternoons. In the winter I put pieces in my kitchen oven on the "warm" setting -- 145 F for a few hours.
I was surprised how much lighter in color the Doctors oil is compared to Mahoney.
I can't say that I have noticed any curing time differences with the Doctor's or Mike's, but I do prefer the wax mix in The Doctor's mix. It is all I use any more. I have taken an old incandescent bulb and put it under curing bowls on the wire racks. Seems to help.
robo hippy
ok, fpr those that buff any of these oils. Do you dedicate buffing wheels? It always seemed to me that I wouldn't want oil residue on the buffs that I use for lacquer or WOP?
Pete
* It's better to be a lion for a day than a sheep for life - Sister Elizabeth Kenny *
I think this equates nicely to wood turning as well . . . . .
Pete:
That's an excellent question. I wouldn't want to soil any of my buffing wheels.
The few utility bowls I do are always “finished” with walnut oil. I wet sand with walnut oil through 400 grit, then spin the bowl faster with 0000, then with a rag with a wax/walnut oil mix - all on the lathe. No need to buff at that point.
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Making sawdust mostly, sometimes I get something else, but that is more by accident then design.
Maybe I'll get the oil/wax mix and apply as John does; the buffing wheels won't enter the equation.
I use walnut oil for that which is to be food based use. I have once used it (Mahoney's oil) on a highly figured piece and buffed it, I would call it an in between satin and matte. Felt great and slightly improved the figure but I think it would have sold sooner with a gloss finish. I have never buffed Doctors (bought a gallon and have used less than 8 ounces).
If the turning is a utility piece, buffing is not worth the time. I usually buff (Beall system) if the piece is an artistic item and I really like the sheen produced and the surface is velvety smooth. If the oil is cured there is no effect on the wheels.