How about posting some pics of what you're creating??!!

[Paul Phillips]

Awesome work from some very talented people!
Here are a few boxes I made as gifts, a chess set for my son who is a big Lord of the Rings fan so I found an elvish scripted font for his name and and of course someone had gone through the trouble of actually creating the dwarven runes from the book so I had to put that in as a message for him.
box1.jpg box2.jpg
This is cribbage board I made for my wife who loves Celtic things. The board is white Corian laser etched and paint filled, drilled the holes on my CNC.
box3.jpgbox4.jpg

[Matt McCoy]

Those look great, Paul!

[Bert Kemp]

One of my PGR brothers ask if I could do something for his brother who served on the USS Midway, this is what I did for him.IMG_20180409_195853332.jpg

[Nick Hale]

30w rayfine galvo fiber. I am happy to share any of my settings with anybody interested in firearm engraving.

[Patrick Gardner]

thompson fab scale.jpg
This is a 5.5 foot stainless steel scale that I laser engraved using Laserbond. I had to split up my art and engrave most of the copy, then move it to engrave the rest as it is too big for my table. I used the spray can version to get an even coat. I was afraid to try the foam brush on such a large piece. I have never been able to achieve a black mark that I am happy with and I have tried all of the different brands and done power grids as best I could. My machine only engraves from black artwork, so assigning a power to a specific color is not an option for me. Spraying with a satin clear coat now should help to make the mark appear a little darker. Overall I'm happy with it.

[Tim Bateson]

Playing with scroll work.

Very clean Nick. What process do you use to prevent the rough sledge along the edge - A zillion low power passes or some other clean-up after lasering? Is that paint filled?

[Kev Williams]

Very nice job on that chunk of SS--

Slight hi-jack, since you LIKE the LaserBond and it does look nice in your pic, so I'm curious, anyone else currently using LaserBond?

I've been happy with Cermark for 18 years now, BUT, Cermark used in my 80watt glass-tube Triumph on stainless produces (my best analogy) a 70% black whereas the 3 Synrad lasers I've used ALL produce a 90-95% black. And I simply won't sell 70% black... I tried the Enduramark sample kit, and I found it DID produce a much blacker mark in the Triumph, but there issues; the thicker the stuff was gooped on, the blacker the mark, but I couldn't get the stuff to flow out flat , so at the edge of every brush stroke was a raised 'mountain' of e-mark that wouldn't flatten, and all those 'mountains' engraved darker than the 'plains'-- ie: inconsistent, and I won't sell inconsistent either. And FWIW, I won't spray either, must be brush-able. I know e-mark has changed, I need to order some and try it...

The LaserBond looks interesting, but my concern is the cost- yeah the 500gm bottle is $180 v $250 for Cermark, but the suggestions say a 1:1 mix with alky, and I'm at about 2.8:1 with Cermark, which is much more useable product-- $180/1000gm usable=18c a gram, $250/1900gm usable/250=13c a gram... Ok, not that big a deal -- and, if it will work in the Triumph, I can just use Cermark everywhere else. Being able to actually use the Triumph for stainless would be huge for me, that was one of the main reasons I bought it!

Hi-jack done -and again, getting that much stainless to blacken that nicely is no mean feat, good job!

[Mike Null]

Kev

I just got around to trying the new Enduramark stuff today. It is thicker by quite a lot but I couldn't brush it on and this job along with most of my work can't be sprayed. We went over them twice to get a more even coat but I'll be ordering Cermark shortly. My time is worth too much to worry about a few dollars saved on a product that diminishes my efficiency. I had previously mentioned the application shortcomings to the owner so maybe he is working on it.

[Steve Middleton]

I like it!

[Kev Williams]

Thanks for the info Mike!

[Mike Null]

I don't mean to hijack the thread but to continue with another comment on Enduramark. It is black--not more than Cermark but good. I mis-positioned a piece and had to remove the Enduamark. Plan on some work if you have to do it. It's darned near part of the metal.

[Kev Williams]

interesting-- If I could put the Triumph on SS duty, it would free up SO much time on the other two lasers that it would be worth dealing with spraying the stuff. I just need to break down and buy a small bottle of both Emark and Lbond and see what results I get... Also interesting is that the Emark simply won't flow out. I have a certain something here I want to thin it with

[Mike Null]

It needs an emulsifier.

Back to the OP's topic. Here is a piece of Corian that I wanted to play with. I was attempting faux scrimshaw. I downloaded a line drawing (a Bitmap) and engraved it using my acrylic setting and 333 dpi. I then painted it with black ink, let it dry and sanded the surface to remove the excess ink. The engraving time was one minute twenty eight seconds.

corian.jpg

[Kev Williams]

Wow, that turned out nice!

[Bert Kemp]

Very nice Mike and fast too.