[OP]
Contributor
So I knew that the start and the finish were going to be a problem cuttng the rubber on the initial cut of the track because only one guide is in the track and sure enough while both are close they arent quite perfect. Using the ends of the track to line up the cut seems like it's going to be an issue when cutting something close to the 55". Did I miss something on how to do that initial cut straight?
Guest
Just cut the rubber?
Contributor
Make the first (plunge) cut with both guides on the track. Then trim the ends using a razor and straightedge.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
[OP]
Contributor
Pretty sure the front end is just a hair short now. Not a big fan of having to try and eyeball getting that rubber cut straight with a knife and straight edge plus there is only about a 16th maybe exposed so wouldn't be very easy to cut. I doubt I will cut much over 48" with this track but I find it odd I haven't seen a whole lot about this process and other people having the same problem.
[OP]
Contributor
I guess one good thing is I see a replacement rubber isn't all that expensive so if it does become a problem I guess I can replace it.
Contributor
Then don't use the ends of the track to line up the cut.Originally Posted by keith micinski
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Member
Just dont cut the ends, i wish i didnt. Not only would you avoid screwing up your "straight edge" but it would give you a visual of where to safely start and stop your cut. I tried to cut them with one half of the saw on the track and ended up with the blade hitting the aluminum and the saw kicking back. Not good. The one gripe i have about this saw is that the 55" track isn't long enough to comfortably cut a 48" length (regularly needed for crosscutting sheet goods). I always need to move the track or risk a guide coming out/kickback.
I do not want to buy a $300 track just to cut it down to ~60 inches, and they do not sell intermediate lengths.
Contributor
The 6' track is extremely handy.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Contributor
I regularly cut down sheets with the 55" track with ease. Not sure what you are doing wrong. Hang the track off the sheet a few inches on either side and make sure your sheet is flat on stickers. Cutting any sheet with any saw on a surface that isn't flat will cause the saw to bind and kickback.
I never trimmed my edge with a razor either. In fact the first time out I just cut a sheet down and the edge was cut even the length of the track.
Member
Or get another section of track. Whatever length you think you will use most often. Festool track lines up and joins with Makita track by the way. Use the joined track to cut the rubber full length on both ends.
Member
You need 2 tracks joined together, and it's automatic otherwise don't cut the ends
Contributor
Don't join tracks together if you want precision. Get the track lengths you need.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
Member
55" is about perfect length for crosscutting 48" ply. I have a 75" also and wouldn't choose it for that cut. Can you describe your process?
Contributor
That's the ticket right there. You join two together and make your fist cut. Flip them end for end - that puts the two uncut parts in the middle. When you make that second cut, then you'll have a nice straight edge to work with.You need 2 tracks joined together, and it's automatic otherwise don't cut the ends
"Life is what happens to you while you're busy making other plans." - John Lennon
[OP]
Contributor
Well maybe this will be a good reason for me to get a couple new tracks. It’s amazing to me that all the way through product development no one using the saw pointed out its impossible to get a good cut on the ends of the thing you want to be really straight.
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