Thinning "Oil" base Stain question- Increase drying time ?

[Marc Jeske]

I have two new gallons of two different colors Sherwin Williams BAC stain

Both wayy too dark, need to reduce.

I have in the past used MS, up to 2:1 to this same specific Stain, but for current project want more working window time.

Is there anything I can thin with.. or add.. to extend working time slower than Mineral Spirits ?

Would like longer "open" or working / wiping time than MS gives.

No problem waiting a few extra days before Nitro Lacquer.

BLO ?

And if BLO, what kinda ratio.. and is it FOR SURE not gonna cause any trouble ?

O.. and it has to be readily available due to living very rural.. must be available at typical Lumberyard paint dept.

Closest "Paint" store 90 miles, would really prefer not to wait or pay for ship.

Here's info from SW-

"To lighten any SW BAC system color, add
clear base S64T50 to achieve the desired color you are looking for.

Also, these solvents below may be used to adjust the drying time or strength of the stain.
1. VM&P Naptha for faster dry time (R1K3)
2. Mineral Spirits for medium dry time (R1k4)
3. 140 Flash Naptha for a slower dry time (R1K140)"

Thank you, Marc

[Marc Jeske]

Kinda surprised I haven't gotten feedback on this question.

I guess it just comes down to can I add BLO to this stain, and ballpark what ratio ?

SW PDS and SDS does not specify all ingredients.

I have done all the searching I can w no clear results.

It does seem it would be fine, but not at all clear that I have found.

Again, Thanks.. Marc

[Wayne Lomman]

Marc, I would like to offer advice but US solvents are differently named and formulated to what is here in Australia. I would use mineral turpentine but that is not the same as mineral spirits. I would say that using boiled linseed oil is risky. It is a drying oil, not a solvent. However, do a test and see what happens. Cheers

[Jim Becker]

Solvents are going to flash off...adding mineral spirits may actually make it dry faster in that respect. BLO isn't a solvent and may complicate things as Wayne mentions. You might contact the manufacturer of the stain and see if there's a retarder that you can safely add to the mixture to get the longer working time that you describe. That said, my limited experience with oil based stain products is that they generally provide a reasonable working time already just due to the nature of the oil based binder in them that requires at least an overnight cure. I'm curious about your situation...are you trying to color a really, really huge area all at once?

[Marc Jeske]

Well, not a huge area.. picture like Pine like an absorptive sponge 6 panel 3'0 x 6'8" doors.

Again, I do want to dilute also ,not be sooo dark ...AND even though I'm quick, I would like more "open" time.

After getting hold of the SW area field salesguy, WAY more knowledgeable than the Store folks, I will dilute w Mineral Spirits to reduce darkness, AND some BLO to extend working wiping time.

I will do test panel, will let sit a few days, no rush in this case, then overcoat w the Nitro Lacquer to doublecheck compatibility.

Just thought w all the Guys here fooling w custom mixtures.. often including BLO.. that I would get some more feedback.

Marc.

[Jim Becker]

I don't recall anyone ever adding BLO to an oil based stain product, but I could just not be remembering it. I use BLO to actually warm/pop wood rather than a coloring agent most of the time, but that's a personal preference.

I personally don't use pigment based oil stain on pine. It feels really muddy to me. I'm more of a fan of water soluble dyes for coloring wood, outside of something like oak with a very open pore system. It looks like, ummm....excrement...at first, but once it's hit with the shellac to seal, it's quite nice. Larger areas can be sprayed to avoid overlapping issues since it also dries very quickly.