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Thread: Drawer slides

  1. #16
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    If you have the Richelieu slides that Lowes sells, they say in the packaging to have 1" difference between the carcass opening and the drawer width.

    edit: anectodally; I made a nightstand that used a few Blum slides and one of those Richelieu slides. The Blums I even installed before making the drawers and they work great but the Richelieu slide was the one I had to rebuild the drawer for. This is partly because of the small tolerance, but mostly because of an error I made. I made a jig to shave off some of the drawer sides a wee bit, but I wasn't happy with it in the end and just made a new drawer.
    Last edited by Rick Moyer; 02-21-2018 at 9:02 AM. Reason: added comment

  2. #17
    Thanks for that info, Rick.
    Yes, I have the cheap white ones from Lowe's.

    While I want the project to be half decent and functional, it's my first project with some other flaws and it's in my little hobby shop and no one but me will see.
    And I've learned some things that will help on the next project(s).

    If I get out there today, I'm going to see if I can shave 1/8" and try again
    Last edited by Larry Foster; 02-21-2018 at 1:52 PM.

  3. #18
    We'll see how this works when I get back.

    I shaved 1/8" from one side of the drawer.
    Will try the slides when I get back from errands.

    Wish me luck.

  4. #19
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    I was referring to the full extension silver ones. Not sure the tolerances on the white ones.

  5. #20
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    I would use the drawer without slides. If needed, you could put shims in on the cabinet carcass.

  6. #21
    Now you tell me, Lowell.
    I'd thought of that when I was starting to have problems.

    I'm trying to use this project as a learning experience and will have to figure out drawer slides eventually.

  7. #22
    Drawer slides win this battle.

    I need to figure these things out because I have a pile of them I bought a while back for something else
    Last edited by Larry Foster; 02-24-2018 at 5:34 PM. Reason: Additional info

  8. #23
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    Quote Originally Posted by Larry Foster View Post
    I'm still confused.
    But, that's my normal state.

    Appreciate if someone would help me out.

    Although I didn't have any time for the shop today, I wanted to check something.

    My drawer opening is 26-15/16 and the drawer is 26-1/16 which leaves 7/8" for a gap on each side of 7/16"
    The slides I am using seem to be 3/8" wide/thick.

    That leaves me 1/16" on each side if I built this true.
    Pretty tight, I know.

    I have cheap Richelieu 20" 3/4 extension traditional side mount slides.

    Even if I rebuilt new, how much room do I need?
    Thank you
    I looked at the Richelieu site and all the slides I saw require 1/2" per side clearance for the slide. You are 1/16" less than that per side, so you need to make an adjustment. The easiest is to remove 1/16" of material from the side of your drawer box where the slide will mount. Removing this material will not affect the strength of your drawer.

    If you can post a photo of the drawer box, cabinet and slides we can give you better instructions.
    Last edited by Lee Schierer; 02-24-2018 at 10:24 PM.
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  9. #24
    Thanks, Lee.
    Several days ago I was able to shave 1/8" from the drawer.
    Tried again to mount the slides and they kept jamming.

    I think part of the difficulty is that I'm working in a space that is only 4" high.
    Another is my eyes aren't as good as they once were.

    I'll grab some pics tomorrow.

    Appreciate the offer

  10. #25
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    Larry are you openings square or at least is the left to right measurement at the front of your cabinet the same as the back? If for example it gets narrower in the back that can cause all kind of frustration

  11. #26
    Thanks, all, for generously and graciously sticking with me.

    The openings are square and the left to right measurement is the same front and back.

    No one asked but I have my left and right sides correct.

    Drawer opening.jpg


    Drawer and slide.jpg

    The bottom one is the right side of the drawer.

    The plans for the stand say to mount the slides to the carcass 1-1/2" from the bottom and to use a 1/8" shim under the drawer for the drawer slides.

    He is using a different slide.

    The instructions with the slides say to mount on the bottom but I can't see how to do that.

    I have an idea to try today and if that doesn't work I can pick up a different slide tomorrow

  12. #27
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    Larry, if the bottom picture is the right side of the drawer...is it possible you have the slides mounted backwards? On those type of slides the wheel should be at the rear of the drawer, at least with similar slides I have seen.
    It may be the picture, but it also looks like they are mounted slightly off level from the top of the drawer loooking left to right.

  13. #28
    I misspoke, Nick.
    That is the left side of the drawer

    But, you are very observant regarding the level of the slide on the drawer.
    The right side is lower than the side with a roller.

    Just have to figure out whether to lower the left side (I think that raises the drawer) or raise the right side

  14. #29
    I may have stumbled on to part of my problem.
    My drawer is fairly close top to bottom.

    I'm going to shave a little off the top.

    I'll be back

  15. #30
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    Larry FYI: you should (temporarily) first install the drawer component of the slide with the screws in the vertical holes, then once the drawer is working to your satisfaction, remove one at a time and put the screws in the small round holes. This is so you have some vertical adjustment before finally installed. You also do similar with the cabinet parts but there you use the horizontal holes first and then the small round holes. This all allows some initial adjustments before final screw placement.

    May not bet the problem you're having but could help in the future. As you are finding out, drawer slides can be a PITA.

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