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Thread: diamond stone question

  1. #1
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    diamond stone question

    Hi Guys,

    I was up at my cabin this weekend and forgot to bring my sharpening set up and decided that I would really like to have some type of set up that I keep up there. I will likely bring my DMT stone set up and pick up something new for the house.

    I have used DMT bench stones for years and have the 120-1200 grit. I have been very happy with them except they are too narrow for some plane blades, but that can be solved with a wider set. I like the idea of sticking with DMT diamond stones because I am familiar with them and have been very happy. They also just seem more convenient that water or oil stones.

    That being said if I am buying something new it seems like the right time to ask, is there a compelling reason to look at a different system? I have not read anything that makes me think that others are much better than diamond. I would probably just be getting 600, 1200, and 8000 as I have some extras in the rougher grits anyway.

  2. #2
    I've had and continue to have very good results with Spyderco ceramic stones. I have medium and ultrafine. For anything coarser, I have DMT diamond plates "left over" from my old system. Others around here have spoken well of the Spyderco stones as well. They are relatively inexpensive, very durable, very easy to clean with Barkeepers Friend every few sharpenings, and produce a devilishly sharp edge with a minimum of work. They even do well with A2 blades when I must use them. The ultrafine has a reputation for being very flat right out of the box; the medium seems to need flattening with a diamond stone in some, but not all, cases. Once flat, they both stay that way for a long time. Worth taking a look; you may like them.
    Fair winds and following seas,
    Jim Waldron

  3. #3
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    I too have been happy with DMT for many years. Other diamond plates have not held a candle to their longevity (my 'fine' plate is 16 years old). I have long narrow ones and a wider shorter set for wider irons. I have other means to move beyond the 1200 grit but, would probably stick with DMT plates if I needed more or duplicates.
    "A hen is only an egg's way of making another egg".


    – Samuel Butler

  4. #4
    Join Date
    Feb 2014
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    I would also vote for Spyderco ceramic stones/plates. I have several of their medium and ultra fine. I keep a 3x8 ultra fine lightly rubbed with LV green honing compound on my bench when using planes and chisels at all times just for a quick touch up.

  5. #5
    For cabin use - I think I might try out the Trend or DMT 300/1000 double sided diamond stone and then finish up with your favorite green chrome oxide on a strop. It's simply less stuff to keep up with... 1 stone and a strop... Stuff it in a drawer and off you go...

    And then if you really feel crazy - maybe keep a short roll of 100 grit PSA and a piece of plywood or granite countertop or an old hand held belt sander laying around if you ding one up bad... That assumes extended stays at the cabin... I wouldn't bother with this if you are doing weekend jaunts. Just pack that one up and deal with it at home...

  6. #6
    Join Date
    Apr 2013
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    Stone Mountain, GA
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    Sounds like a good plan, but I personally would skip the 8000. I don't like any of the diamond finishing stones I've tried.

    I have the Spyderco UF ceramic (bought years ago when I first got into knife sharpening). It is a very good stone, capable of tackling most any steel, and gives a very bright mirror polish. I think it would make an excellent finishing stone for a "maintenance free" diamond stone system.

    It is a very hard stone, and the feel is a lot like using a translucent Arkansas (almost like sharpening on glass). Very different from waterstones. I normally use oilstones for daily sharpening, but when I need to sharpen an A2 or V11 blade I swap the Spyderco for the translucent Ark at the last step. I use just a dab of honing oil on the spyderco and it keeps the stone from loading (so no need to use any barkeepers friend- just wipe off the honing oil and the swarf comes up with it, just like with the translucent Ark.)

    The only problem with mine is that while the stone is flat, it's not perfectly smooth. There are subtle machining marks from the surfacing process- you can't actually feel them with your fingertips but if you use the stone dry the swarf will highlight the pattern. It is just barely noticeable when you are sharpening, but it has not kept me from getting a good edge. This seems to be a typical experience, and some people lap the stone to smooth it out.

  7. #7
    Join Date
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    I'd also suggest something other than the DMT #8000 for finishing. It uses 3 um diamond particles, which would make it 3000# or so in most other manufacturers' rating systems. It also has problems with particle height uniformity, such that it leaves a less uniform scratch pattern than ideal. If you want a polisher that can be used "dry" and doesn't need to be flattened then I'd fourth (I think) the suggestion for the Spyderco UF.

  8. #8
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    My two diamond stones are kept in the kitchen just for the purpose of maintaining the kitchen knives. Once or twice a year the knives are taken to the shop for a thorough workout to remove what the two rather fine diamond stones will not.

    Sounds like leaving a set at the cabin is a good plane. If you also have an axe or a machete at the cabin you may want to do as John mentioned and bring along some abrasive sheets to touch up the big boo boos.

    jtk
    "A pessimist sees the difficulty in every opportunity; an optimist sees the opportunity in every difficulty."
    - Sir Winston Churchill (1874-1965)

  9. #9
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    I do have some other sharpening stuff up there like a couple lansky pucks and a gransfors bruks puck for axes and draw knives and such along with files I use for axe sharpening.

    I take the DMT bench set up mainly to use on touching up knife blades. Invariably whichever buddies come with me bring along all their knives for me to resharpen. I have not kept a strop up there but I do have some extras so that would be easy.

    That is good to know about the DMT UF stones, I will take a look at the spyderco as a finishing stone.

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    The Spyderco stones are great all-around ceramics and I've got quite a few of them (Tri-angle sharpmaker, bench stones, profiles, slips, etc).

    For bench sharpening of most tools (e.g., plane irons, chisels), I've converted to Shapton Pro stones. They are thick, wear slowly, are easy to use (no soaking, just a spritz from a spray bottle), and can be flattened quickly.

    TedP

  11. #11
    Im also very happy with my DMT Stones, in terms of flatness they are alot better then Eze-Lap also seem to last longer.

    I can only agree skip the 8000, it does work quite well if you work without pressure on it.
    However other mediums polish far better, be that Strops or Water/Oilstones so id recommend one of those for finishing.

  12. #12
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    Mar 2017
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    Forest Lake MN
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    Another question, on the DMTs for the coarser grits is it worth it to get the 4 by 10 over the 3 by 8? Its a bit more, but I see this as a very long term investment so if the extra inch is nice I would not mind paying for it.

  13. #13
    Brandon, how much extra width do you need now? I assume you have 2 inch wide plates now.

    The value proposition from DMT are the 11 1/2 x 2 1/2 plates or if you need a full 3 inch width then the 12x3 double sided would do too. Do you have plane blades wider than 3 inches? Agree with the others that have said to pick something else besides the DMT 8000. It leaves fine deep scratches. I got rid of my DMT MEF an EEF a long time ago. I tried and tried to break them in, but gave up. I chose ceramic. Any of the spyderco's will work. I think the ultra fine is the only spyderco in the 3 inch wide format.

    I've used DMT, EZE-Lap and Trend and like all three. I actually prefer EZE-Lap 1200 or Trend 1000 over DMT 1200. The scratches are not as deep and are easier to hone or strop out. I don't need the worlds flattest diamond stones as I sharpen small narrow tools free hand, so a few thousandths here or there don't get my panties in a bunch.

  14. #14
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    Brandon, do you use a honing guide? If so you probably want 3x8 stones. If you freehand then 8x2 or even 6x2 is enough. The stone does not need to be wider than the blade when freehanding.

    If you want to flatten other stones with these, then its nice if the plate is bigger than the stone you're flattening.

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