How I do inlays using thin shell laminate

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Here is a quick tutorial I took images of last night showing how I do shell inlays using thin laminate. I get the laminate from Aqua Blue Maui. Theirs is twice as good as others I have tried. The laminate is a fraction of a mm thick- like thick paper. It has special needs when I laying. You CANNOT sand it flush- it is too thin- so you need to get it just right. I set the inlay about .01mm below the surface and fill with epoxy, then scrape it flush.

Here is the laminate as it comes.
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The secret is to tape the back with blue masking tape. This makes it stay together when cut. I will leave the tape on the back and score it and use epoxy to glue it in. I’m sure I will get backlash for this but in 15 years I have yet to have one fail. Image shows waste after cutting the inlay because I didn’t take a before of the tape. You can also glue it to card stock to make it easier to handle, but without a backer it will fall apart unless you laser cut it.

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I tape the pattern to the material and then cut it out with scissors. Fingernail scissors are best for tight corners. Regular scissors are best for straight lines. I use punches to punch out inside curves.

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This thin laminate works best for large inlays that would take a lot of the expensive thicker stuff. I use thick material for smaller inlays.

Next I tape the inlay to the workpiece and veeeery carefully trace around it. For this mahogany I used white Pica pencil. Then I use a Dremel with a plunge base and set it for about 3 times the thickness of the material. This allows for the glue layer below and the epoxy layer on top. I first go all around the edges with a sharp razor knife (like Xacto) and then I route the edges of the piece with the Dremel. STAy INSIDE the lines. The line should still show when done.

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Next I either route or chisel the waste- in this case a little of both- and use a knife to touch up the points where the Dremel bit couldn’t fit.

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Because of photo limits, I will continue with the next comments.

[Malcolm Schweizer]

Here is the inlay fit into the cutout- FIRST TRY!!! I’ve been doing this a long time. You may need to touch up your recess. Also a side by side shot to show inlay and recess.

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I am headed out of town, so I am stopping here. All that is left is to paint a thick layer of clear epoxy (West System or other GOOD epoxy) and scrape it flush after cured. Finish with whatever finish you are using for the piece. Here is one I did that is finished with marine varnish.

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[John Blazy]

Sweet job! So you leave a thin layer of epoxy right onto the face of the MOP? Then sand the epoxy flush and topcoat over it? Thats how I do inlays with my material, I just make sure its set deep enough below the surface to epoxy fill with enough depth that flush sanding doesn't touch the core material.

I also see you said scrape it flush - smart. That way you end up with a level surface rather than abrade the wood deeper than the inlay, which is a no-no in high end inlay work.

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[Malcolm Schweizer]

Sweet job! So you leave a thin layer of epoxy right onto the face of the MOP? Then sand the epoxy flush and topcoat over it? Thats how I do inlays with my material, I just make sure its set deep enough below the surface to epoxy fill with enough depth that flush sanding doesn't touch the core material.

I also see you said scrape it flush - smart. That way you end up with a level surface rather than abrade the wood deeper than the inlay, which is a no-no in high end inlay work.

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yes- that is what I do. Nice guitar!

[kern barta]

Thanks for this Malcolm. Been wanting to try shell inlay. I'm going to order some Thin Lam and give it a go based on your process.