Festool Multi-Function Table -- Do you have one? Do you like it?

[Sanjeev Agarwal]

I have the MFT/3 along with 2 other workbenches - a split top roubo and another traditional bench with twin screw and quick release vises. I love all of them for different reasons but the MFT is the most versatile especially for power tool use. The Festool quick clamps and the clamping elements help you get the most from the MFT although they add up the cost even more.

[Patrick Kane]

Im not here to bash the MFT, but perhaps to offer the other side of the coin. I had the latest MFT3 for a year prior to getting a KF700 in the fall. The fence and rail flip hinges leave a lot to be desired. The flip Stop needs almost constant calibration, and the tab into the rail channel is sloppy. Then, it’s not enough that you just spent $650 on a card table, but it requires a good $100+/- precision square to be calibrated. Finally, let’s not overlook the fact this is a rickety table with a top that is prone to sagging and highly susceptible to inclimate conditions. Mild moisture is enough to ruin the precision of the CNC grid by inducing slop into the holes. The lower left quadrant of mine was like that after leaving sweaty workgloves on them overnight.

I can see how it would be good for paint grade sheet work on site, but the stock setup doesn’t hold its settings to a tight tolerance. If you don’t mind being 1/16” out over 12-15”, then the MFT is great. If that isn’t good enough for you, then I include this one in the same bucket as the kapex—expensive/best carpentry tools that sacrifice the last 1/16” of accuracy in the name of portability. Honestly, if this is your only work bench then I would make your own. Get a top CNCed for you or buy a spare top from festool. The qwas or similar dogs and rail dogs are much more consistent than the fence.

[Robert Zschoche]

George,

I owned four MFTs while I was doing remodeling work and they were great for jobsite use. Yes, the top gets saggy and the tables don't resist wracking enough to use for hand planing. But I found the accuracy to be excellent as long as it was set up properly. I don't know if I would buy them now, however, based on the cost compared to what the used to be. If you're interested in making your own, take a look at Timothy Wilmots' videos on Youtube.

[Todd Zucker]

I have an MFT mounted on a rolling cart. This was one of my first woodworking purchases. It took me me a few months to get comfortable squaring it up, and then I bought the "slop stop" for $15 and that made all the difference. Perhaps because I don't move it out of the garage or break it down, I have not had to square up the flip up track in at least 6 months. I don't have a table saw and love the MFT and track saw combination. Would not be without it.

I have the same experience as Dick with the clamping elements, which lift off the table if you clamp with full pressure. But i still use them a fair amount. I use the Festool screw clamps and quick clamps literally all the time (and they also work on the grooves of the drill press table).

i don't know if the triangular extruded shape of your Micro Jig dovetail clamps would be compatible with the grooves on the aluminum sides of the MFT. I have seen some people use those grooves to clamp things to the side of the MFT, but i have never really found a need to do that. My guess is that if you do get the MFT, you will get some more Festool clamps, and you could still use the Micro Jig clamps to hold things on the surface of the MFT.

[Michelle Rich]

I have 2, and I love them because they are the most versitile clamping/sawing units I have used. Plus one can break them down and get them out of the way. As an old woman that low weight makes it a winner for me.

[Dick Mahany]

.......... Then, it’s not enough that you just spent $650 on a card table, but it requires a good $100+/- precision square to be calibrated.

I used 2 pair of dogs and a piece of 3/4" MDF, and made a DIY square approx 18" on a side. It is as square as I can measure and cost about $5 for the material. If I damage it, I can make another one in a matter of minutes. I always get a kick out seeing how much folks spend on those pretty and expensive squares from the various manufacturers. The squareness is easy to verify by using the "5-cut" method and a good caliper. Just trying to show another option for squaring.

[Rob L. Jones]

Watch the video in this thread over on the FOG forum:
http://festoolownersgroup.com/festoo...seen#msg538715

Im not here to bash the MFT, but perhaps to offer the other side of the coin. I had the latest MFT3 for a year prior to getting a KF700 in the fall. The fence and rail flip hinges leave a lot to be desired. The flip Stop needs almost constant calibration, and the tab into the rail channel is sloppy. Then, it’s not enough that you just spent $650 on a card table, but it requires a good $100+/- precision square to be calibrated. Finally, let’s not overlook the fact this is a rickety table with a top that is prone to sagging and highly susceptible to inclimate conditions. Mild moisture is enough to ruin the precision of the CNC grid by inducing slop into the holes. The lower left quadrant of mine was like that after leaving sweaty workgloves on them overnight.

I can see how it would be good for paint grade sheet work on site, but the stock setup doesn’t hold its settings to a tight tolerance. If you don’t mind being 1/16” out over 12-15”, then the MFT is great. If that isn’t good enough for you, then I include this one in the same bucket as the kapex—expensive/best carpentry tools that sacrifice the last 1/16” of accuracy in the name of portability. Honestly, if this is your only work bench then I would make your own. Get a top CNCed for you or buy a spare top from festool. The qwas or similar dogs and rail dogs are much more consistent than the fence.

[Peter Kelly]

Important discovery - mezcal bottle tops make very good 20mm dogs for the MFT.

[Jim Becker]

Important discovery - mezcal bottle tops make very good 20mm dogs for the MFT.

Wow...now there's an excellent recycling example!

(How consistent is the diameter of the part that will be proud of the surface?)

[Ted Derryberry]

I don't have an MFT so I can't comment on it. However, my CNC table has 3/4" dog holes 4" on center so I thought I'd give my $0.02 on clamps. If you do have a thicker top and want to use the screw type clamps the MicroJig dovetail clamps have a small bolt that keeps the moving part from sliding off the end of the bar. Remove that bolt and the bar can be poked up through a hole in any thickness top and the moving part slid back on to it. (I don't use these on the CNC, but thought it was worth mentioning.) On the CNC I used Lee Valley "wonder pups" for years and they are great. Rock solid, but a little slow to screw in and out, even when out of the table. I never got around to buying a quick release wonder dog as mentioned above. I couldn't get past the cost. Recently Kreg came out with an "in-line clamp" designed for dog holes. I ordered a pair or them to try on the CNC and the day they showed up I ordered four more. For a plastic clamp they are amazing. They have a greater range than the wonder pup, over 4", and they are much faster. They have noticeably sped up my production and I'm more likely to do something on the CNC now because the clamping is so quick vs. messing around with the wonder pups. With the CNC another advantage is if I hit them with the bit I've only ruined a $20 clamp and not the bit. I hit a wonder pup one time and there went a $40 clamp and a $40 bit in one fell swoop. I'm not sure if they work on 20mm holes, but Kreg could probably answer that. If they hold on a CNC with all the vibration and lateral forces then they should be more than adequate for sanding and the like on an MFT type workbench.

If I felt the need for a work top with dog holes I'd build something similar to Timothy Wilmot's design.

[Peter Kelly]

I'll have to check the tops once I'm back at the shop. Have some whiskey ones as well that look very similar...