Where do I go to get bearings replaced?

[Frederick Skelly]

Guys,
I got the new bearings - they are National # 203S. [Edit: The box says 203SS but the bearing says 203S.] The originals just said Taiwan and 6203LU. The caliper shows same ID and OD. They are sealed. Any reason to think these are not the same part?

Is there a proper order to reassemble this? I'm thinking install one bearing into the housing, then tap the shaft into that bearing. (The end with the screw in the pictures.) l I like that because the end of the shaft needs to be flush with that bearing - and it's only a short distance to go. These two steps leave the first bearing seated in the housing and the shaft installed in the inner race of that bearing.

Then, I will tap the other bearing onto the far end of that shaft about 1". Then gently tap it the rest of the way until the 2nd bearing seats in the housing. (I thought about installing both bearings in the housing first, then tapping the shaft thru both. But my gut says that isn't the way to go. I don't know why.)

Thanks very much.
Fred

[lowell holmes]

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/je...84_154794.html

https://www.ereplacementparts.com/je...84_154833.html
They have it all.

[Jeff Heath]

I thought the name was familiar. I wonder if it's the same Robert Vaughan that wrote many great articles in Fine Woodworking on bandsaw tuning/repair?

That's the guy, and none finer walking this earth.

Frederick,

Glad you got it worked out. When pressing new bearings on a shaft, you want to apply pressure on the inside race only. When pressing bearings inside a bore, like a bandsaw wheel hub, that thought is reversed, and applying pressure only on the outer race.

Pressing on the inner race of a bearing into a bore, like the inside hub of a bandsaw wheel, or any other application, can result in premature failure of the bearing. I just thought it was worth taking the time to mention it in this thread, even if it seems obvious.

Cheers.

[Bill Space]

That's the guy, and none finer walking this earth.

Frederick,

Glad you got it worked out. When pressing new bearings on a shaft, you want to apply pressure on the inside race only...

Cheers.

Jeff, I think you meant the outside race...

edit: Whoops...I thought the bearings were going into the housing first...so my apologies if I misunderstood...But if the bearing went on the shaft first...confused now...

[Jeff Heath]

All good. I believe we are on the same page.

[Frederick Skelly]

I got the bearings in and the shaft inserted. I was pleased. After I cleaned the corrosion inside the housing, those bearings tapped in easily with no press required! THEN, I saw the two spacers still sitting on the saw. Imagine my expletives.

So I carefully took it apart, installed the two spacers on the shaft and then put it back together. As I was about to install the housing containing the shaft and bearings on the saw, I saw that I put a small dent in the metal seal on each of the bearings. (Sigh - not gentle enough Mr. Skelly. That seal is probably leaky now.) But I turned the shaft carefully and feel no binding - it turns very smoothly. So I put her back together and she runs beautifully. I'm still throwing that lower tire, but I'll order new tires tomorrow to fix that. I needed the bearings regardless.

With all these "installation adventures" I don't expect to get the normal lifetime on these bearings. As someone noted above, installation issues and sawdust penetration are common failure modes, and I'll probably some of both. But you know what? I'm really glad I did this. I needed to learn how. And when they fail again, I know how to fix them and what dopey stuff not to do.

Today was a fun day. Thanks to all of you for teaching me!

Best wishes,
Fred

[Jeff Heath]

Good job, Fred. Don't sweat the small stuff. If they go bad in 10 years, you can do them again then.

Now it's time to tackle something really fun, like rebuilding a 30" planer!

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks Jeff!

[Bruce Wrenn]

It pays to buy Japanese or U.S. made bearings over Chinese bearings.
The quality of the grease in a better made bearing adds years to it's service.

Is this an opinion, or do you have any proof? The reason I ask is on my daughter's car, a $17.00 NAPA (not made in China) bearing failed in less than 10K miles. The $1.99 Chinese special from Fastenal now has over 300K miles on it. The Big Bearing Store used to have "How Ball Bearings are Made" on their web site. Interesting reading.

[Jeff Ramsey]

WTG Fred. You're now an official bearing replacer. You may get long life from those bearings even with the "dimple". It should run like a champ with new tires.

Jeff