Where do I go to get bearings replaced?

[Bill Dufour]

I have pulled many bearings by using a good size nail and pound it headfirst down the inner bore to push the inner bore of the bearing below the one I can see. Just make sure the outer bore is well supported. I sometimes have to grind the head so it is like a railroad spike and only sticks out on one side depending on head size and innerbore.
Bill D

PS: Be aware that the ball bearing will be metric if the machine was made after around 1930 or so. Even so it is very rare to find a inch ball bearing ever! If the machine is that old it will most likely be bronze or still a metric bearing unless it is farm equipment.

[Bob Bouis]

You don't need a blind bearing puller, just a socket extension (or a dowel or something). Knock the shaft out then put it in through one bearing cockeyed so it contacts the bearing on the other side. Then grab the whole thing in your hand and bang the other end of the dowel on something hard. Out comes bearing #1. Then reverse it and knock out #2.

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks guys!
Bob, I was wondering if I could do that - thanks!

[Bob Vaughan]

Electric motor shop. Small engine repair shop.

Asian metal is rather soft so if the bearings went south, chances are so did the shaft. There's probably a raised burr inside on the shaft so pressing the bearings out will be necessary.
For pressing the bearings on, the socket is a good idea. Properly fitting PVC can work also. If you want to be sure to get the pressure on the inner race, get out the Dremel with a sanding drum and grind the bore of the inner race of the old bearings until it slides on the shaft. Use that as a drive bushing. Simply using the old bearing can often result in the old bearing being driven on to the shaft.

[Ronald Blue]

Electric motor shop. Small engine repair shop.

Asian metal is rather soft so if the bearings went south, chances are so did the shaft. There's probably a raised burr inside on the shaft so pressing the bearings out will be necessary.
For pressing the bearings on, the socket is a good idea. Properly fitting PVC can work also. If you want to be sure to get the pressure on the inner race, get out the Dremel with a sanding drum and grind the bore of the inner race of the old bearings until it slides on the shaft. Use that as a drive bushing. Simply using the old bearing can often result in the old bearing being driven on to the shaft.

That is a pretty wide based assumption. First there is nothing in the photos that indicates there is any damage to the shaft or the housing. Second all or nearly all major bearing suppliers have plants in China. It doesn't cost more to heat treat correctly because it is a product of heat, furnace atmosphere, and proper quenching. While it is case hardening on small bearings the case almost reaches completely through. I know this from almost 20 years involved in the manufacture of cylindrical and tapered roller bearings. The finishing process is where corners are generally cut. Loose tolerances are usually the biggest fault.
As for removal I would support the housing properly and take a block of oak and try driving the shaft out. The drawing doesn't indicate any shoulder on the shaft so it should go either way. An arbor press would be ideal but not a necessity. The main thing is don't cause damage to the shaft or the housing getting it apart. Someone mentioned a lawn mower repair shop and a decent one probably could help out. This is quite similar to the "cartridge" some companies use for the blade spindles. I'm sure they would have a press for this operation. Good luck!

[Jeff Ramsey]

Fred, I recently refurbished a 1976 Delta 37-315 8" jointer, and had the motor rebuilt and cutter head bearings replaced. The motor rebuild shop did all of it, and reasonably. Where are you located?

Jeff

[Jeff Heath]

That is a pretty wide based assumption. Good luck!

Ronald,

I wouldn't expect you to know it, but Bob has been rebuilding machinery professionally for over 40 years, give or take. He has more experience working on these asian made machines for school districts than most humans walking the planet. Everything he is stating is what is considered to be quite typically found on these pacific rim machines. It's not an assumption when you've repaired the same machine 500 times and they all have the same inherent weaknesses.

What you say about bearing plants in China is very true, but there are still plenty of high quality made bearings available NOT made in China. I rebuild a lot of vintage machinery, and I do not use chinese made anything in my endeavors. Plenty of quality "stuff" out there available if you know where to get supplied, and know where to find quality.

Just thought you should know, as it's unlikely Bob will come back touting his resume for you. If he speaks about experience on a machine, it's advisable for anyone who wants to learn something to listen.

Just a thought.....carry on.

Frederick (OP)

Your location is not mentioned in your profile. If you're anywhere near northern Illinois, and would like some help solving your problem, send me a PM. I rebuild machinery in my shop all the time, and have all the necessary equipment to do it properly and easily. Your job won't take but a few minutes to do if nothing's messed up. If it is, we can throw your shaft on my lathe and see if we can't fix you up. It's an offer, no strings attached. Just trying to help.

[David Kumm]

I've rebuilt a lot of machines but consider myself a total rookie compared to Jeff and Bob. I will add that you can heat the new bearing with a candleabra bulb ( because the inner diameter is so small ) so I seldom need a press to put one on. That is a small bearing that doesn't turn very fast so it is a good candidate to learn on. Dealing with bearings is a good thing to learn. Dave

[Tim Boger]

Here's my 1.5 cents worth .... have you applied something like PB Blaster in case corrosion is hampering your efforts.
Tim

[michael langman]

It pays to buy Japanese or U.S. made bearings over Chinese bearings.
The quality of the grease in a better made bearing adds years to it's service.

[Andrew Joiner]

Ronald,

I wouldn't expect you to know it, but Bob has been rebuilding machinery professionally for over 40 years, give or take. He has more experience working on these asian made machines for school districts than most humans walking the planet. Everything he is stating is what is considered to be quite typically found on these pacific rim machines. It's not an assumption when you've repaired the same machine 500 times and they all have the same inherent weaknesses.

What you say about bearing plants in China is very true, but there are still plenty of high quality made bearings available NOT made in China. I rebuild a lot of vintage machinery, and I do not use chinese made anything in my endeavors. Plenty of quality "stuff" out there available if you know where to get supplied, and know where to find quality.

Just thought you should know, as it's unlikely Bob will come back touting his resume for you. If he speaks about experience on a machine, it's advisable for anyone who wants to learn something to listen.

Just a thought.....carry on.

Frederick (OP)

Your location is not mentioned in your profile. If you're anywhere near northern Illinois, and would like some help solving your problem, send me a PM. I rebuild machinery in my shop all the time, and have all the necessary equipment to do it properly and easily. Your job won't take but a few minutes to do if nothing's messed up. If it is, we can throw your shaft on my lathe and see if we can't fix you up. It's an offer, no strings attached. Just trying to help.

I thought the name was familiar. I wonder if it's the same Robert Vaughan that wrote many great articles in Fine Woodworking on bandsaw tuning/repair?

[Frederick Skelly]

Thanks everyone! Dave, I came to the same conclusion - this is a skill I should start learning. So with all of your continued encouragement, I just tried it again and SUCCEEDED. I got both bearings out of the housing and marked their respective positions on the shaft for the reinstall. One bearing is still mounted on the shaft, so I'll have to carefully tap that off. The local auto parts store has these sealed bearings, so I'll hopefully get her back together yet today.

Tim - yes, there was some rust making it harder!

I'll keep you posted - I'm sure I'll need more advice. (Will try the light bulb trick too - thank you.)

Fred

[Bob Bouis]

I hate to be contrarian [well, not really...], but it's a 12" bandsaw probably used in a home shop. The original bearings lasted 20 years. And they aren't hard to change once you get the hang of it. Probably a 20-minute job. The most likely cause of failure here is going to be improper installation. Next is going to be dust contamination somewhere down the line. High end bearings won't help much in either case.

[Mark Bolton]

I just tried it again and SUCCEEDED.
Fred

Congratulations man. There is no better feeling than figuring it out. Well done.

[Bill Dufour]

I'll keep you posted - I'm sure I'll need more advice. (Will try the light bulb trick too - thank you.)

Fred[/QUOTE]

heating a bearing is a interesting option but probably not needed on any woodworking machine. heating will expand the inner bore and the outer diameter at the same time. But heating a bore will expand it as well. Overheating a bearing will fry the grease out.
Bill D