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Thread: To activate or not to activate?

  1. #1
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    To activate or not to activate?

    I am using a CA glue finish on my pens with an activator spray. I was looking to improve my technique and saw a video where they suggested not to use activator. Any opinions? Also, if you don't use activator, how long should you wait between coats?

    TIA
    Last edited by Scott Cenicola; 02-17-2018 at 7:50 AM. Reason: Spelling

  2. #2
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    I quit using CA glue altogether. I did use the activator spray for awhile but had problems where sometimes it would turn the finish white. That went away when I stopped using it, but I just couldn't stand the fumes from the CA glue. I just let it become dry to the touch before the next coat.

    I have since switched to General Finishes Woodturners Finish and never looked back. It is still a very fast finish and coats can be built up quickly. It can be wet sanded easily with 400-600 grit if needed to smooth out any ridges or imperfections and has zero odor. I found that a heat gun on a low setting will flash the finish dry in just a few seconds and one can observe this easily when applying it. I can apply another coat in less than 2 minutes and build up 10-12 coats in minutes. It leaves a very glossy and smooth finish and is durable(the formula was a derivative of a bowling alley finish).

    I only use CA glue now for gluing.
    Dick Mahany.

  3. #3
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    Back when I was making a lot of pens I tried the activator a couple of times but didn't like it. Went back to the CA and BLO finish. You only need to wait a minute between coats. Using the blue paper towels to build heat sets it fast.
    Sid Matheny
    McMinnville, TN

  4. #4
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    A third option is to use the activator before you apply the CA to the blank. Spray the activator on the blank, the apply the CA using whatever applicator you like. You get the benefit of the activator, but you don't get the blush that can happen when you spray the glue. Check out some of Captain Eddy's videos on using CA finish on bigger pieces - boxes and bowls. He applies the activator first with good results.
    Grant
    Ottawa ON

  5. #5
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    What brand of CA? I use Starbond super thin and accelerator and have not had any issues. I did see that vid and tried not using any accelerator. Wait a few minutes is all that required. I didn't see any change or improvement, so I'm back to accelerator. Thicker CA may have that problem of turning white.

  6. #6
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    Thanks to all for your responses so far.

    I am using Insta bond products from Craft Supplies USA. Most of the time it comes out good, but every once in a while I get a goober from the spray. Also was wondering if the spray was just an unneeded expense

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Scott Cenicola View Post
    Thanks to all for your responses so far.

    I am using Insta bond products from Craft Supplies USA. Most of the time it comes out good, but every once in a while I get a goober from the spray. Also was wondering if the spray was just an unneeded expense
    I don't do pens these days (unless someone comes and wants to make some) but when I did I never used activator. When finishing with CA I used the method with medium glue with an oil chaser applied with a small piece of folded paper towel.

    About the only time I use CA accelerator is when I get impatient while holding something together.

    JKJ

  8. #8
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    even a minute is an eternity when you're doing a batch of pens.

  9. #9
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    even a minute is an eternity when you're doing a batch of pens.
    Even one pen seems like an eternity when you dislike making pens.

  10. #10
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    Quote Originally Posted by Stan Calow View Post
    even a minute is an eternity when you're doing a batch of pens.
    Yep........

    One thing I did learn is to wait a tiny bit to let the CA rest or do something that CA needs to do before getting sprayed by accelerator. I did notice that if you are holding a piece, glue it and immediately hit it with accelerator, it does turn white. And my fingers got stuck. The instructions say wait a minute before applying accelerator, but I just a few seconds before applying the accelerator.

  11. #11
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    For those that hate doing pens then this question is not for you . I make pens and lots of pens and love it and I use Satelite CA. If fumes bother you just about all companies sell odorless CA. I do not use activator because I feel it makes the blank more brittle (just my opinion) If you are going to use that stuff your best bet is the aerosol can and not the spray bottles. The cans will atomize it better. Ask 100 people who do make pens their prefered method of finishing and you will get 100 different answers. I always put 3 to 4 coats of thin CA on and let the lathe spin (slowly) and it takes a minute to dry. Then I sand back to dull making sure I do not sand through the finish. I then apply about 3 to 4 coats of med CA and it dries whenever it dries between, usually a couple minutes longer. I do not put on heavy coats just a quick swipe. I do not do production work so that can be a problem if you are doing hundreds of pens a day. There are other finishes out there today that others can answer to but my favorite and never had a problem with is Satelite CA. Good luck.
    John T.

  12. #12
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    I use accelerator with CA glue finish with no problem. If you really want to learn how to finish with CA glue get your club to bring in Alan Trout, he is the master of the CA glue finish.

  13. #13
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    Quote Originally Posted by John Terefenko View Post
    ...I use Satelite CA. ...my favorite and never had a problem with is Satelite CA.
    I want to try your method. As mentioned, I don't do many pens myself (some friends and students do though) but I do use CA finish on other things. I'd like to try the medium over thin like you describe.

    I've mostly been using the Parsons Parfix 3408 as recommended by Mark Sillay - it is thin, odorless, and has a 40 second cure time. This gives time to wipe on larger things, let soak in, then wipe off.

    Also, what do you apply CA with? I've been using pieces of folded paper towel but they can smoke the heat from the reaction. I was told once to try the non-cotton batting used in upholstery which isn't supposed to react with the CA but it didn't work - maybe I got the wrong kind.

    Do you have a good source for the Satelite CA?

    JKJ

  14. #14
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    Quote Originally Posted by John K Jordan View Post
    I want to try your method. As mentioned, I don't do many pens myself (some friends and students do though) but I do use CA finish on other things. I'd like to try the medium over thin like you describe.

    I've mostly been using the Parsons Parfix 3408 as recommended by Mark Sillay - it is thin, odorless, and has a 40 second cure time. This gives time to wipe on larger things, let soak in, then wipe off.

    Also, what do you apply CA with? I've been using pieces of folded paper towel but they can smoke the heat from the reaction. I was told once to try the non-cotton batting used in upholstery which isn't supposed to react with the CA but it didn't work - maybe I got the wrong kind.

    Do you have a good source for the Satelite CA?

    JKJ

    I always like to buy it direct from the source because I always know it is fresh. There are other vendors. http://www.caglue.com/ Lots of good info on their site too. May want to read into it.

    I apply with blue towels from Walmart auto dept. When I micromesh I wipe and polish with Viva towels. I use to apply with those plastic bags that the pen kits come in but stopped that. I cut the fingers off a blue nitrile glove and put one on a finger when applying so not to get any on hand. I do not use on large projects so I can not speak to that but for pens I have never had any fogging or cracking.
    John T.

  15. #15
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    I use activator, no blushing problems. I use small pieces of 3mm craft foam to apply Medium CA, 90% of the CA goes onto the blank, versus 25% with a blue paper towel. Cut the foam to the same size as your folded paper towel, apply pretty much the same way, using same precautions. Each piece of foam can be used 4 times. It's easy to build CA FAST this way, probably too easy. I've got to cut down on the amount I apply to the foam, as I can get pronounced ridges and such when the activator hits the blank, as there can be too much CA on there and it doesn't self level quite as well as the thin.

    I think that environmental conditions can have a significant impact on working with CA, given it's sensitivity to moisture. So what applies in the semi-desert climate here may not be the same there in Tampa.
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