Rick, I'd hold off and buy used. Good used ones come up frequently on CL and auction, and usually under your max.
Rick, I'd hold off and buy used. Good used ones come up frequently on CL and auction, and usually under your max.
A word on shapers.....
A used vintage shaper in good shape is a lot better quality machine, for final finish vibration dampening, over the newer sheet metal stuff. They are built heavier and were designed for all day industrial use. I have rebuilt a few, and it's not uncommon to find high quality abec 7 or 9 bearings in some of the higher end vintage shapers. You're talking about bearings that cost over $1000. That's a good thing, not a bad thing. If the machine was well maintained, those bearings will last indefinitely with proper lubrication.
I have experience with a similar Moak shaper, as shown above, and I currently own a Porter "light duty" shaper. Light duty my arse. I raise panels in 2 passes, taking a 1/16" final pass for cleanup. A lot of time saved vs. a router table (which I upgraded from). Those older cast iron machines are hard to beat, and you can find some great prices. I paid $500 for my Porter, and it needed a cleanup and I changed the oil for the oil bath bearings. Minimal measurable runout, less than what is considered acceptable on a new asian machine.
A word on fences......
Most commercial fences aren't as good as just making your own out of thick piece of stable quartersawn wood. I typically use white oak or ash. I have my own sawmill, so have plenty of 8/4 laying around in the wood shed. You can cut out a zero clearance for the spindle and bearing (if using one) and push the fence material through the shaper cutter, making a zero clearance fence. This is the very best fence you can use for most shaper profiles.....and especially raised panels.
Good luck, whatever you decide.
Jeff
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Ah yes another good buy. I've upgraded four machines in the last year to a Powermatic 1150 drill press, 90 lathe, 30 disc/belt sander, and a Delta 37-315 jointer. I've a Delta 52-704 shaper that was given to me, but the Grizz would be an upgrade (especially with the cutters).
A CNC eh? I might have to drive back over when you get that set up!
Thanks for the lead on the Grizz.
Thanks for all the feedback and information, guys. I’ll take a look and see what’s doable.
Rick
Everyone here is telling you to buy used. I did - and it worked out well for me.
Many people here are telling you shapers live and die by the fence - but I think that's both good advice and wrong in the sense that it implies that other elements of your purchase are less critical. In my opinion (I'm a beginner learning slowly by doing it wrong first) the power feeder is at least as important as the fence and more critical in the sense that you can work with a poor fence, but you cannot power feed without a power feeder. Initially I did not appreciate the power feeder (I got mine with the machine - 1HP Grizzly equiv with a 3HP 90s Griz equiv shaper), but now I love the thing because it allows me to produce much better results - even on runs of one or two pieces.
In addition... you need to consider what advanced features and quality level you need, for how long, and how they match with your needs and abilities. New is nice, and a G1026 with the matching feeder is within your budget - and if you're either not an expert or not planning to use it a lot, then the missing features, limited weight (mine has 200+ pounds on the G1046 and the stability is great), or limited longevity may not matter to you - especially if you plan to sell it when your project is done.
A power feeder is absolutely unnecessary to the basic function of a shaper.
"Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."
I'm fairly new to my shaper, and I bought it used as well. It is a PM 27 I found through an auction at a school. Although a power feeder is not necessary, consider the shaper is probably the most dangerous tool in your shop...and if it isn't, it's pretty close. That said a power feeder helps reduce that a lot by keeping your hands away from the cutter heads. Second, the main difference between running through a shaper with a power feeder vs a router table is consistent feed rate and material dead tight to table and fence. Both will make a big difference in your overall performance of making good joinery. Last, if you ever want to use your shaper in reverse, or run material through backwards when dealing with difficult species you have to have a power feeder.
JMO of course.
Jim - For those that are not hip to the lingo, or at least for me, what is "Deals and Discounts" and "D'town" ?
Googled it and all I get is those goofy coupon sites.
Thanks , Marc
Marc - Deals and Discounts is a subgroup here on the Creek. D-Town is Doylestown. It is slang used around here in the Lehigh Valley, PA / Philly area.
James, I didn't realize you were a "close neighbor". Jeepers...if you haven't bought that shaper yet, it sounds like it's still posted...
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The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...
Yep, Jim, we are pretty close.
FYI - Just this morning I sent the seller an email to see if I can set a time to come see it and see it run. So we will see what happens.
"The first thing you need to know, will likely be the last thing you learn." (Unknown)