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Thread: Good paste wax brands for antique furniture?

  1. #1

    Good paste wax brands for antique furniture?

    I have a vintage walnut dining room set. I have been using oil on it yearly, but it's been suggested to me that paste wax would be better. It has the original finish, but I don't know what that is. Only that it is porous, as oil soaks in. It has a slight sheen and no obvious visible coat. Whatever might have been used on American furniture from the 1930's.

    It is not damaged. There is no checking or cracks in the surface. It does not need refinishing. I have refinished quite a few pieces and this doesn't even look close to needing refinishing. That said, the carved details (turnings and carved apron), start to look dry after a while. Those are not in a position of wear so I don't see how the finish could be gone on those, where the tops (veneer) should potentially be in a position of wear, yet show no wear. The turnings and carvings are obviously solid wood vs. the flat areas are veneer. That's the only difference I can see to explain why the former might look dry. Some end grain exposed? I hope that's clear.

    I posted earlier asking about better oils to use on it, but paste wax was suggested, so I thought it was best to start a new thread.

    Plugging "paste wax" into the search box only turned up threads related to applying it to tools. I have an old yellow can of Johnson's I used back in school a decade + ago. Though I can't remember what project it was for and whether I liked the results.

    In any event, I really like this set and if paste wax will keep the dry parts looking better, that's what I'll buy. Thanks for your suggestions.

  2. #2
    Linnea,

    From your followup to your earlier post, I would have to say the description is consistent with an oil finish. I'm not aware that oil finishes were popular in the 1930's, but who can know the history of an old piece that has changed hands. As you pointed out, the absorbent parts of the piece, e.g., turned legs, are probably unfilled pores where end grain is exposed.

    IMO a drying oil could be applied, once you ascertained that it would adhere well, but that is refinishing no matter what you call it. You have refinished furniture in the past, so you know what is involved in preparing the surface, etc. I still strongly advise against just wiping on some drying oil. It will be very difficult to make it look right.

    You seem to be happy with the appearance of the table except for the spots that appear to be dull (dry). They are probably not hurting anything, objectively. If you would like to apply paste wax, Johnson's is the old standby, and as far as I know does not contain silicone. I assume that Minwax paste wax is also OK.

    Paste wax is usually a blend of waxes of various melting points. Commercial waxes like Johnson's are a compromise between ease of application and buffing and durability and shine. Johnson's is usually excellent for polishing a table top, etc. I blend a harder wax for lubricating drawer guides, etc, I blend beeswax and carnauba wax. Pure carnauba is actually so hard it is brittle. The more carnauba, the higher the melting point of the blend and the harder the wax. So, try Johnson's and see if it gives you the desired effect.

    Doug

  3. #3
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  4. #4
    The Renaissance wax is indeed used by many museums. I've got one piece of furniture that a friend waxed with it. Seems to me it does not look as obviously waxed as things with Johnsons wax. But I have no real preference for either.

  5. #5
    Thank you.

    I have both waxes. I use the Renaissance Wax on my metalwork. It’s really expensive, though.

    I will do a test on 2 comparable turned or carved parts, and see how they compare. Then I’ll know if buying a large jar of Renaissance is justified. It would take a lot to do this whole set as there are 4 pieces not counting the chairs.

    I’ll have to make sure the wax doesn’t fill the pores and end up looking white in them. My father-in-law once tried to be helpful and used paste wax on our dark-stained builder grade oak banisters, right after we moved in. They weren’t shiny and he thought they should be. That was 30 + years ago, and I can still see white in the pores. I always thought a hot day would take care of it, but it didn't.

  6. #6
    I like the Renaissance wax but I use it only on decorative pieces not tabletops that would be subject to a lot of wear. If your dining room table doesn't get any more use than ours I would use the Renaissance there as well.

    Whether it's better than other waxes is above my pay grade but I like the fact that very little is required and it doesn't produce a high gloss.
    Mike Null

    St. Louis Laser, Inc.

    Trotec Speedy 300, 80 watt
    Gravograph IS400
    Woodworking shop CLTT and Laser Sublimation
    Dye Sublimation
    CorelDraw X5, X7

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Linnea Lahlum View Post
    Thank you.

    I have both waxes. I use the Renaissance Wax on my metalwork. It’s really expensive, though.

    I will do a test on 2 comparable turned or carved parts, and see how they compare. Then I’ll know if buying a large jar of Renaissance is justified. It would take a lot to do this whole set as there are 4 pieces not counting the chairs.

    I’ll have to make sure the wax doesn’t fill the pores and end up looking white in them. My father-in-law once tried to be helpful and used paste wax on our dark-stained builder grade oak banisters, right after we moved in. They weren’t shiny and he thought they should be. That was 30 + years ago, and I can still see white in the pores. I always thought a hot day would take care of it, but it didn't.
    You should be able to remove the old wax with mineral spirits. Might take some time and patience but it should work.

    John

  8. #8
    Linnea

    You can buy Briwax in various woody shades. You can tint untinted wax with oil stain. It's easier if you putt he mixing vessel in hot water. DONT heat either of these things on the stovetop (but you knew that).

    Doug

  9. #9
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    Yes, Briwax. My local hardware store carries it.

  10. #10
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    FYI, Briwax has a nasty solvent in it, toluene, or at least it did when I bought a can several years ago, that will damage some finishes, as well as you. I still have that can, unused.

    John

  11. #11
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    I just finished up a can of Trewax. The only downside to this wax is that is dries out in the can and becomes a bit crumbly. It works best when you warm it first to get it back to its paste consistency...kind of a pain. But otherwise, I like the hardness and finish it provides.

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