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Thread: Blue Painters Tape

  1. #16
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    Mar 2003
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    SE PA - Central Bucks County
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    I use this stuff more for "clamping" than I do for "masking". For that reason, I prefer the "original" flavor of the blue tape, rather than the various newer versions with different color codes. I find they don't seem to stick as well, although they do have a thinner edge which is beneficial for masking.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  2. #17
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    Sep 2008
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    Spokane WA
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    Most all of my use will be “clamping” also.

  3. #18
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    Dec 2017
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    Marietta, GA
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    Jim, have you tried the green flavor? It sticks better than the blue in my experience.

  4. #19
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    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Derryberry View Post
    Jim, have you tried the green flavor? It sticks better than the blue in my experience.
    Not to-date, but I should do that when my current supply dwindles...I know that the green flavor is supposed to be better for masking lines, but since I rarely use tape when house painting, there's no experience on my part with it.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. #20
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    Dec 2017
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    Marietta, GA
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    I hear you. I do every thing possible to avoid painting, but when I do I would much rather cut in a line than fool with taping it off.

    I didn't even realize the green was supposed to be better for masking. I thought it was specifically made for "hard to stick" surfaces. It also has a higher tensile strength.

  6. #21
    Join Date
    Jul 2017
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    TX / LA border.. Toledo Bend
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    So, the main selling point of the blue is easier release... less possibility of marring or lifting "delicate surfaces"

    If so, wouldn't the original white hold better when used for (most, depending on configuration) clamping situations ? ? ?

    Would have higher "shear" strength of the adhesive I would think... less chance of creeping.


    Sidenote.. Has anyone been surprised w residue discovered when staining?

    I would think prudent to wipe area where tape was applied w strong solvent, even if it seems no residue.

    Again, tape has performance qualities that cannot be known until actual use of that specific product, in a specific use, kinda like abrasives.

    I would only buy a roll or two of a new to me product to start.

    And just like sanding belts, definitely store back stock NOT in hot humid conditions.

    Just some thoughts, Marc
    Last edited by Marc Jeske; 02-16-2018 at 6:49 PM.

  7. #22
    The question is do you need the blue tape? Most people now a days buy blue tape by default for everything. It's an utter waste of money of you don't need 7-10 day release or whatever your tape is rated for. We do a lot if masking and we use different tapes for the appropriate application. Plain old yellow masking tape where needed, blue tape where needed, green 3M only where needed, and Green Frog tape ABSOLUTELY only where needed (the stuff is priced like gold and must be kept in its case. It's worse than gorrila glue for going bad).

    I wouldn't skimp on any tape for brand. You save your money by not using a more expensive tape than your application requires.

  8. #23
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
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    Marietta, GA
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    The yellow tape isn't as strong in my experience and is more likely to tear when you pull it off, regardless of how long it has been applied.

    I've never had a problem with residue when staining, but I generally sand after removing the tape. Even if the part is already sanded and I'm fixing a small blemish it generally needs sanding over the repair anyway.

    I don't use enough to worry about any price difference between yellow, blue and green. I do tend to use the blue unless the green is called for. Certainly the blue is worth any cost over the yellow just to avoid the aggravation of the yellow, and the fact that I'd probably end up throwing away most of the roll in disgust anyway.

  9. #24
    Quote Originally Posted by Ted Derryberry View Post
    Jim, have you tried the green flavor? It sticks better than the blue in my experience.

    I've come across a few different green tapes. One is Frogtape. Then there are two 3M green tapes, one is a high powered tape, seems to be intended for masonry and less than smooth surfaces, the other is a much better one called 233+ which Lee Valley sells. They call it binding tape and recommend it for tape clamping edge banding, guitar bindings, etc. It has a little bit of stretch to it and removes cleanly. Works well at the miter saw for limiting tearout on the back side of a molding cut. I have found it on Amazon and Ebay.

  10. #25
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    Jul 2017
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    TX / LA border.. Toledo Bend
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    Quote Originally Posted by Mark Bolton View Post
    The question is do you need the blue tape? Most people now a days buy blue tape by default for everything. It's an utter waste of money of you don't need 7-10 day release or whatever your tape is rated for. We do a lot if masking and we use different tapes for the appropriate application. Plain old yellow masking tape where needed, blue tape where needed, green 3M only where needed, and Green Frog tape ABSOLUTELY only where needed (the stuff is priced like gold and must be kept in its case. It's worse than gorrila glue for going bad).

    I wouldn't skimp on any tape for brand. You save your money by not using a more expensive tape than your application requires.
    Well said. Marc

  11. #26
    Join Date
    Dec 2017
    Location
    Marietta, GA
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    I've been using the 3M 2060 for rough surfaces and had good luck with it. When I run out maybe I'll try the 233+. I found it on Amazon and it's described as "automotive masking tape" and apparently is designed to conform to curved surfaces.

  12. #27
    Quote Originally Posted by Bill Sutherland View Post
    Most all of my use will be “clamping” also.
    If your looking for clamping clear packing tape leaves no residue and has super elastic stretch (if you dont buy the cheap poop from lowes, stick with the 3m)

  13. #28
    The only time we ever have problems with straight masking tape (yellow) is when rolls are very cold, when you buy cheap tape, or when you poorly care for your rolls of tape. Yellow tape does tend to tear if you toss it in a box and the edges of the roll get dinged and nicked. But if your rolls are decent, and reasonably not-cold (lol) it works and releases fine from any material such as glass, metal, etc.. We mask a lot of glass and I would go nuts if we masked it all with blue tape.

    This has come up here before and it all of course depends on how much tape you use, and your budget. If you are an individual who only uses a bit of tape here and there, hobby level, and just buy 2" wide blue tape at the box store by default, thats one thing. We tend to keep all (other than Frog Tape) on hand. Sleeves of blue tape are expensive lol.

  14. #29
    Join Date
    Jul 2015
    Location
    North Virginia
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    341
    The green 233 tape is awesome stuff. It is indeed called "binding tape" and is used by luthiers and others as a tape-based clamping mechanism. The tape has a bit of stretch that allows you to really get some pressure on the joint. Great stuff - but a little spendy. When you need it, it can be a lifesaver.

  15. #30
    Quote Originally Posted by Marc Jeske View Post
    Well said. Marc
    Right back at ya.

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