Basic Lathe Chuck Questions

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I'm looking for a lathe chuck for my small Delta lathe to turn stuff that is about 1 1/2" dia. I'm looking at the Grizzly 5" chucks for about $70.

Q1. What holds more securely...a 3 jaw chuck or a 4 jaw chuck? Either way, it must be self centering...I don't work with anything irregular or square.

Q2. Some chuck jaws have serrations, some don't. How important are serrations?

thanks, Jeff

[Roger Chandler]

4 jaw chuck, definitely!!! Way more useful in the long run for other types of projects as well.

[Marvin Hasenak]

Which chucks are you looking at? The Grizzly chucks are not all equal, some they call chucks for wood lathes are really metal lathe designs and are dangerous to use on wood.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I'm looking at these two (attached)Chucks.jpg

[Marvin Hasenak]

Those are sorry excuses for wood lathe chucks. If you look at metal lathe chucks you will see the same exact designs of chucks. They were metal lathe chucks before, and still are now.

[Prashun Patel]

I have had very nice luck with the Nova G3. It uses a single wrench, which is more convenient than Tommy bars. It also has interchangeable jaws so you can use it for larger things if you so wish. The standard jaws on this are 50mm, though, so you'd need to get a smaller set, which means this all-in price would be about $150. I still consider this a great buy.

[Michael Mills]

I agree with the others that those are mainly for metal; the jaws can bite into wood easily. You want a chuck with jaws which wrap around the item.
I have not used these but I did start with a tommy bar style chuck and they are not bad (and in some ways better) than a keyed chuck. The general saying is that if you can use a pair of pliers with one hand you can use a tommy bar chuck with one hand.
Looks like a good price with the variety of jaws but ask of folks who have used them as to the quality of the chuck itself. According to the reviews at the web site they look pretty good.
https://www.pennstateind.com/store/CUG3418CCX.html

I do agree the Nova G3 is a very nice chuck, I have four. The chuck runs about $100 with 2" jaws and you would probably want the 35mm spigot jaws for the smaller items you mentioned. So, yep, about $150 total.

[Kyle Iwamoto]

Yep, the Nova G3 is a sweet deal. Don't forget to get the chuck that fits the threads on your lathe. May or may not require an adapter, depending on what model you get.
I personally think using Tommy bar chucks require significantly more skill than a pair of pliers. There are 3 moving pieces to a T chuck. The 2 bars and the rotate to tighten chuck. There are only 2 moving parts to a pair of pliers. Neither of which is ever greater than a hand span away. They are great in other ways though. As a whole, they take up less space, and that could be important on a small lathe.

[Marvin Hasenak]

If you are on a tight budget look at the Penn State Ind. chucks, the utility chuck uses tommy bars. $90 including 2 sets of jaws and the large jumbo flat jaws for doing the bottom of bowls.

[Michael Mills]

I personally think using Tommy bar chucks require significantly more skill than a pair of pliers.

If someone already has one, or someone buys one, I didn't learn the following for about six months.
After using the ring to hand tighten (which is faster than turn, turn, turn with a key) the sets of holes will be offset.
Rotate the chuck where one the holes towards the headstock is about top center. Somewhere in the rotation the hole on the work side will be about 1:30 and it is very easy to use one hand to tighten. To remove rotate until the headstock side is again top center an another hole will be about 10:30. Again a easy reach and a squeeze releases the item.
Yes, it was a pain before I learned this. I assume most chucks are the same; this is the way the Woodcraft and the Nova worked.
I noticed the Easy Wood chuck has a scroll ring (they call it a zoom ring) to tighten by hand then use the chuck key,

[Kyle Iwamoto]

If someone already has one, or someone buys one, I didn't learn the following for about six months.
After using the ring to hand tighten (which is faster than turn, turn, turn with a key) the sets of holes will be offset.
Rotate the chuck where one the holes towards the headstock is about top center. Somewhere in the rotation the hole on the work side will be about 1:30 and it is very easy to use one hand to tighten. To remove rotate until the headstock side is again top center an another hole will be about 10:30. Again a easy reach and a squeeze releases the item.
Yes, it was a pain before I learned this. I assume most chucks are the same; this is the way the Woodcraft and the Nova worked.
I noticed the Easy Wood chuck has a scroll ring (they call it a zoom ring) to tighten by hand then use the chuck key,

Yep. Significantly more skill than squeezing a pair of pliers.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

It sounds like the 4 jaw chuck is the better way to go. I don't think it has serrated jaws, but I probably could remedy that myself if needed.

I'm looking to "machine" wooden and plastic parts for pool cues. I'm not looking to use the chuck for bowl turning.

Some parts for a pool cue may be as small as 1-1/4" dia x 2" long. These parts will required boring and machining on both ends. So, I need a chuck that won't wobble too much, and hold the wood well without a tailstock.

As you can probably tell, I'm not a hardcore turner. My avatar, which is 13 years old now, shows a turning project by happenstance.

-Jeff

[tom lucas]

Sounds like you will also need a Jacob's chuck for the tail stock. BTW, I have the PSI chuck with 4 sets of jaws. A good starter chuck and may be all that you will need for casual usages. I don't see the tommy bars as that bad.

[Jeffrey Makiel]

I am able to use the chuck from my drill press which also sports an MT#2. It holds drill bits up to 5/8".

I bought the mini 3 jaw chuck from Harbor Freight. What a piece of junk. I didn't read the reviews. It's run-out is clearly visible, and anything you place in its jaws vibrates loose in about 20 seconds. I can probably use it as a static bit holder in the tailstock in lieu of the drill chuck from the drill press, so I kept it.

The Grizzly chucks (both 3" and 5") seem to have good reviews on Amazon. I will check out the PSI chuck.

I'm frugal because it will see limited use. It's part of a lathe upgrade project to adapt the lathe for new cue stick builds, and to accept existing cue sticks for modifications/upgrades.

Jeff

[Doug W Swanson]

I have two recommendations:
1. Spend the extra $10-20 on a chuck that uses a key for closing. Tommy bars are a pain and there are times when you need a third hand to use them. The key makes things easy.

2. Look for a chuck that uses an insert. There is nothing wrong with direct thread chucks but they are all for 1"-8 lathes. If you have a direct thread chuck and you ever upgrade your lathe to a 1-1/4"-8 lathe you'll need an adapter and that can lead to runout issues. If you have an insert chuck all you have to do is swap the insert. I ended up selling 4 direct thread chucks when I bought my new lathe because I didn't want to use an adapter.