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Thread: Going from NO DC to Oneida SDG . ductwork plan check.

  1. #1

    Going from NO DC to Oneida SDG . ductwork plan check.

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    Hey all.

    I posted last March about a Minimax j/p machine I found on Craigslist. I love this machine! and I can't overstate how convenient it is to have a 14 jointer in the shop. Overall its just made the process of milling wood in my shop much more enjoyable. Some on that thread mentioned the need for adequate dust collection and I took their recommendations to heart. But, was still unable to begin to remedy the situation until this week. For the record it was said in the above thread that my jointer/planer would instantly clog w/o DC. But I must say ,with a bit of attention in clearing chips ( not ejected out the dust ports)from the machine with a shop vac its possible to use the machine without dust collection. Just know its definitely NOT IDEAL. One needs to constantly stop to vacuum built up material. And even though I would do this at the opening of the double wide garage door, the amount of dust produced by this machine is impressive. Its fair to say the shop gets annihilated with dust after a milling session ins complete.
    but I built this using the machine w/o DC.


    suffice it to say I have been hunting for a good DC for a while. And constantly flip-flopping on wether to get a portable machine to move from machine to machine or go full mother and buy a cyclone. In the end I found a used 3hp Super Dust Gorilla from Oneida. A 2011. little used cuz the p/o had an injury and stopped working in the shop for years. the motor fan cover had a ding on it but other than that and a few chips/scrapes on the paint its in excellent shape. She was $1350 including the dust bin sensor, manual etc... ( the new 3 hp smart boost dust gorilla pro runs around 3k but I don't recall how much these pre smart boost models cost when they were new so hard for me to know how I did on the price.

    So now that its in the garage.. Its huge! But I'm calculating it'll pull around 1000 cfm at the longest section of duct based the s.p. from the Pentz calculator. If I understood it correctly. and If i get around to building a separate dedicated shop It will function well there also. So It and the j/p should be upgrade proof?




    As you can see ..

    2 car garage. 9 ft ceilings. Machines on wheels because I find that enough of the projects I do require long parts 8 ft or over. This requires special setups at times so reconfiguring the shop happens a fair amount of time during those projects. Additionally you will see in one photo that A drop down ladder is shown which leads to my wife's office locate above the shop. And yes I'm sure she will love the added noise from the new DC that ladder is down probably half the time.. and eats up lots of space. so reconfiguring sometimes is an essential requirement of my shop' function.

    The ducting plan and shop pics show the standard layout for my shop during normal furniture sized projects. Drops will be 6" flex from very near the main runs to allow for reconfiguring when necessary. I don't want fixed duct down low (even tho air flow would be improved.)




    Since the inlet to the SDG is 8" I am planning an 8" 45 at the inlet to straight duct directed up to near ceiling then 45 leading out from there

    I haven't decided how far to continue the 8" main . whether to do 8" all the way out to the 6" drops or to reduce down to 7" at the branch points. And I'm planning on metal duct. I have a local hvac supplier with prices on straight spiral and snap-lock running about the same per foot. Fittings would be standard fitting ( I can use standard fittings with spiral right?) from same supplier unless he can't get specific ones in which case i'll hit some of the online offerings for specific fittings.

    So . anyone care to comment on any blatant or not so blatant pitfalls in my plan?

    Thankful for any constructive input!

    Thanks.

  2. #2
    You want to eliminate many of the changes of direction shown. Make one large, straight, trunk line from the DC to the far end of the shop. Branch off that to the machines.
    Last edited by andy bessette; 02-14-2018 at 12:13 AM.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  3. #3
    Join Date
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    Nice shop and nice work! Seems like you've been doing well by your local used market!

    Have you considered a dust collector closet to reduce the noise? This might be worth considering if your wife uses her office while you are in the shop.

    Matt

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    You want to eliminate many of the changes of direction shown. Make one large, straight, trunk line from the DC to the far end of the shop. Branch off that to the machines.
    I agree with this. One diagonal main trunk with branches off that to tools. Buy "really good" flex with the smoothest interior you can source since your actual drops will be longer than they would be if you piped to the tool with short flex for connection. If you can raise the whole cyclone up you'll not only have benefits for the transition to your duct work, but also the ability to use a larger bin...your J/P can fill that little bin in about 5-10 minutes. Really. it can.

    Same comment for the closet that Mathew brings up if you can do it...it made a significant difference in my own shop when I did that a number of years ago.

    BTW, while you may have been able to "get away" with not having dust collection on the J/P, quality will have suffered when chips get between the rollers and the material and so forth. You'll be very impressed with how it performs with DC which the manufacturer requires in the specifications...it's the nature of the hoods, etc., that make it somewhat "mandatory". So good decision on getting that cyclone!
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  5. Switch the bandsaw with the drill press (or red tool chest / cabinet ) and you remove the left most ducting completely.

    But with that size DC and all the runs being relatively short , I supposed it won't hurt to have an extra brach for expansion / reconfiguration..

    Nice set up!

  6. #6
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    I agree that an 3hp Oneida unit like that isn't going to suffer much from extra duct work...it's more of a "keep it simple" thing so that the installation is sane and cost effective. Having one central trunk down the center of my shop has been very helpful over time when I had to make any changes, etc.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  7. #7
    This look a bit better? Trying to get it all to one diagonal main is fine except for the Router table/ drill press area near the cyclone itself. It forces the inlet to point directly out from the inlet before splitting off at a 45 to make it down the diagonal run across the shop. Additionally there is small area to the right of the DC ( the small corner area the shop) that I need to access and it forces me to be unable to place the DC in the corner itself.


  8. #8
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    I would put the plywood rack in the corner to the right of where the DC is sitting in the picture and shuffle the shelves down if needed. Move the DC to where the plywood is now and have the duct
    run straight out to the opposite corner.

  9. #9
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    I have a 5 hp SDG and used 6' DWV pipe. I have plenty of suction on my runs. I think what you have planned will work fine.

  10. Get rid of the first bend in the main trunk by rotating the DC clockwise until its outlet aims inline with the trunk. And don't worry about everything being 90* or 45* to the shop walls.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

  11. #11
    Quote Originally Posted by Peter Christensen View Post
    I would put the plywood rack in the corner to the right of where the DC is sitting in the picture and shuffle the shelves down if needed. Move the DC to where the plywood is now and have the duct
    run straight out to the opposite corner.
    Thanks for the suggestions.. but I just noticed a mistake on the overhead plan. The router table shown is actually a wall that is bumped out. it leaves a small area in the corner that is an awkward storage for now. it would not allow the ply storage to go there without blocking the storage area. Here is the actual layout with router table in correct locations( in front of bumped out wall). Additionally the diagonal run in the direction you suggest would bring the run into the drop down ladder for wife's attic. Also not ideal, from my point of view.

  12. #12
    Quote Originally Posted by andy bessette View Post
    Get rid of the first bend in the main trunk by rotating the DC clockwise until its outlet aims inline with the trunk. And don't worry about everything being 90* or 45* to the shop walls.
    Ya I though of that but feel the 45 out to the router table/drill press area from the small straight section is better than a 90 out from a diagonal run from the inlet (as you suggest). And to be clear, I'm not at all concerned about angles compared to the walls. I don't see walls as having anything to do with the ducts in my case. Whereas If I was trying for a perimeter route around the walls of the shop they might. . But 45 and 90 degree fittings tend to be pretty standard as well sketch up makes is easy to from those angles in so thats why they are in the plan.. Ultimately i'm trying to minimize any 90's where i can relative to the main duct run. preferring 45 s where acceptable.

  13. #13
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    Why can't you slot the cyclone into the "awkward corner storage area"...instead of using it for "awkward corner storage". It would even allow you to more easily enclose the unit for sound mitigation.
    --

    The most expensive tool is the one you buy "cheaply" and often...

  14. #14
    Quote Originally Posted by Jim Becker View Post
    Why can't you slot the cyclone into the "awkward corner storage area"...instead of using it for "awkward corner storage". It would even allow you to more easily enclose the unit for sound mitigation.

    Good Point Getting out my tape measure...

  15. #15
    Quote Originally Posted by joel cervera View Post
    ...the 45 out to the router table/drill press area from the small straight section is better than a 90 out from a diagonal run from the inlet (as you suggest)...
    I suggest no such thing. There should be no 90* bends or transitions anywhere.
    "Anything seems possible when you don't know what you're doing."

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