Better treatment for dry wood on antiques than lemon oil?

[Linnea Lahlum]

I have a vintage walnut dining room set, circa 1930’s (Jacobean Revival). It has the original finish. (The top of the dining room table - only the very top surface, not the apron - has been refinished, but that has no issues with looking dry) I bought it, used, from the family of the original owner. I’ve had it about 10 years. Part of the reason I chose this set over others is that it does NOT need refinishing. There is no checking or other damage.

It looked dry in areas when I got it; much less so now. Areas with the most issues are the turned legs and some of the carved trim. Flat areas (veneer) have less of a problem, with the exception of some book-matched figured wood on the doors and drawer fronts. About once a year, since buying it, I’ve been rubbing it down with lemon oil, concentrating on the dry spots. I do it about 3 times, about 12 hours or a day apart. But still some areas start looking dry after a year.

I do not know what KIND of finish the original is. It has a soft, subtle luster. It’s obviously porous: you can see the oil soak in.

But I’ve been wondering if I should try something different. Those turnings and carvings are tedious to do, with crawling around on the floor especially. Maybe there is something that needs application less frequently.

On an Antiques forum where I asked this question, someone (an antiques dealer, who is usually pretty knowledgeable) recommended Minwax Antique Oil Finish. First a rub down with mineral spirits, then a sparing application of this finish. Sais it would likely be "one and done" if I used that.

I looked it up. Since that’s an oil finish that dries, I wonder if I can safely use that, considering I don’t know what the original finish IS.

I have another product on hand called “Feed and Wax” that I’ve never tried; but I am open to other suggestions. Thanks!

[Doug Hepler]

Linnea,

Let me start out by saying that you are right to avoid drying oil on your table. Do not wipe it with tung oil, boiled linseed oil, etc. Likewise, although you did not ask, never use Pledge or any other silicone-containing dusting and polishing agents on it.

Now I must go on to say that you misunderstand the nature of lemon oil. I realize that I am disagreeing with a belief that is so common that it has become "received wisdom", by which I mean, with apologies for sarcasm, that a lot of people believe in the restorative and preservative powers of lemon oil. That included me, once upon a time. Lemon oil (and orange oil) are non-drying oils. They are solvents and they smell nice. So, after you wipe off a piece of wood with lemon oil it looks better because it is temporarily shinier (until the oil evaporates) and it smells nice, like your granny's table once did. Unless the table was originally finished with non-drying oil (very unlikely in this case) the finish that is already on the table is an impenetrable barrier. The lemon oil will not sink in unless you put it on a spot where the original finish has worn off down to bare wood. Even then, it will do nothing to preserve and protect the wood. The point is, all of your crawling around under the table may be great for your soul, but it is not doing anything for the table except cleaning it and making it smell nice. (And I do like that smell.)

Also, while I on the subject, most lemon oil products contain light mineral oil with a little lemon scent. Real lemon oil from a pharmaceutical or flavorings supply house is very expensive and it does slowly oxidize in the bottle. I don't know the product called "Feed and Wax", but it is hype since, as I already explained, you cannot feed the wood under an existing finish. (You can't really feed any wood, come to think of it. All you can do is coat it with something.)

I recommend that you continue to clean the table with lemon oil or a damp rag. I hope that my explanation will help you to keep your exertions in proportion. If you are very energetic you might wax it with a good quality paste wax (NO SILICONE) The wax might give you a slightly longer lasting sheen on those dull spots that you mentioned. It will have to be removed whenever somebody does decide to refinish the table. Silicone is very very difficult to remove and causes new finishes to not adhere to the old surface.)

Finally, I know this from my own studies and experience, but there is a reference on the web that explains it further.

All the best

Doug

[John TenEyck]

I agree with Doug's excellent input and also suggest you consider wax instead of lemon oil, at least for those "dry" areas. If the finish is in otherwise good condition I would not be eager to try putting Antique Oil over it. But if you do ultimately decide that to be the best approach try it out on the bottom side of the top, assuming that it's finished, or some other non conspicuous area to see if it bonds well to the old finish and gives the look you want.

John

[Linnea Lahlum]

Thank you both. The thing that has always made me wonder is that I DO see the oil soak in. After applying it, I see in the first minute or so, the deeper grain of the wood - the pores - looking matte first. After 20 minutes or so, the only parts that still look shiny are the highest parts of the grain. This is very obvious on the smooth flat areas like the tops and side panels. When I apply it again the next day, the process of soaking in seems slowed. By the third application, it is very slow, and much does not soak in. (rather like the third application of a stain)

So whatever is on there, is not impervious to oil. It is not worn….it looks perfectly intact. The parts that look most “dry” are, as I said, the turned legs and some of the carved trim (which is solid wood and not veneer). Yet they don’t show any wear either.

This has made me think that maybe the original finish was an oil finish. If they were doing oil finishes on 1930’s American furniture. I don’t know what would have been prevalent at that time. Thank you both. The thing that has always made me wonder is that I DO see the oil soak in. After applying it, I see in the first minute or so, the deeper grain of the wood - the pores - looking matte first. After 20 minutes or so, the only parts that still look shiny are the highest parts of the grain. This is very obvious on the smooth flat areas like the tops and side panels. When I apply it again the next day, the process of soaking in seems slowed. By the third application, it is very slow, and much does not soak in. (rather like the third application of a stain)

So whatever is on there, is not impervious to oil. It is not worn….it looks perfectly intact. The parts that look most “dry” are, as I said, the turned legs and some of the carved trim (which is solid wood and not veneer). Yet they don’t show any wear either.

This has made me think that maybe the original finish was an oil finish. If they were doing oil finishes on 1930’s American furniture. I don’t know what would have been prevalent at that time.

[John TenEyck]

Most commercial furniture made in the 1930's was finished with lacquer. If enough coats were applied it would form a film impervious to most liquids, but not to alcohol and stronger solvents. If you are seeing dry areas then I would conclude not enough was applied to form a complete film and those areas will suck up whatever you apply to them. This seems consistent with your observations.

In any case, lemon oil does nothing good for the finish or the wood underneath. It certainly doesn't need feeding; it's dead. If you think the original finish might have been an oil finish, and that leads you to wonder if the Antique Oil would be compatible, then clean an inconspicuous area really well with mineral spirits or Naptha and put on a coat or two. Follow the directions, let it dry a few days, and then see if you can scratch it off with your finger nail. If you can't, and it looks good, do the base of the table with it. If that looks good use it for a month or two and see if it still looks good and doesn't suddenly peel off. If all is well do the rest of the table.

John

[John C Cox]

Often as not - over many years of polishing with furniture polishes - they pick up build up from waxes and polishes. This stuff dries out over time and looks awful.. Often wiping down with a quality furniture polish will help remove the years of dried on gunk....

My personal favorite furniture polish product is Kramer's Antique Improver... Kramer also sells another product that is specifically designed to remove years of dried on gunk without damaging the wood or finish underneath. I have used both products and really like them....

[Linnea Lahlum]

Thank you both. I think I’ll try the Kramer’s gunk remover first and see what I find. If it does remove “gunk”, well, then I know more than I did before. I’m sure I’d have uses for that anyway.

I assume I’ll have to look for that online?