Router lift?

[Brian Holcombe]

Anyone put a water cooled spindle in one of these lifts?

[Jim Becker]

Anyone put a water cooled spindle in one of these lifts?

I think someone posted a link to something about using a spindle not long ago with a shop-built lift, but I don't remember what thread/forum area. Using a spindle for this application, while not inexpensive, could be an interesting exercise. Probably biggest challenge would be adapting the spindle to an existing lift because most spindles have square bodies, not round like a typical router motor, except for a very short area just above the collet. 'Not sure I'd want a water cooled unit for this because of the orientation...air cooled may be a better choice because of that and most high quality spindles seem to be air cooled in my observation as I move into the CNC world.

[Brian Holcombe]

Thanks Jim! I'll dig a bit deeper and look into air cooled.

[Bryan Lisowski]

They do make round spindles and air cooled is probably best since you won't be running for extended times. Water cooled allows you to run for longer periods of time and at higher speeds if I remember correctly.

[Dave Cav]

Or you could just get a shaper or two.

[Brian Holcombe]

I just hate listening to routers, I may end up just getting rid of it after I get a shaper but it is a handy tool to have.

[Dave Cav]

I just hate listening to routers, I may end up just getting rid of it after I get a shaper but it is a handy tool to have.

I'm with you there. I have two shapers, and I'm trying to train myself to use them instead of the router table whenever I can. I have a pretty good collection of the old steel Delta/Carob cutters, and should leave the 1/2" spindle in one of them and use them more.

But for edge work, quick rabbets and other odds and ends, a router table is still pretty handy.

[Joe Council]

I made a lift for my plunge router years ago. It was simple, cost less than $10, and took about 15 minutes to make. I could send you details if you are interested.

Dave if you have the details of your router lift I would be interested in them. I"m looking to build a router lift doe my porter cable.

thanks

Joe

[Jim Dwight]

I do not even use a router plate and never have. I have a router table capability in my extension table but I only use it if I need two. It is just a fixed base for a PC690 screwed to the underside of the melamine particle board of the extension table. The melamine is thinned some on the underside. There is a 3+ inch hole for the bit to come through. Works fine but I still wanted something better and I didn't like the way the router table limited the table saw and vice versa.

My stand alone is shaped like Norm's but it has a router lift based upon an article in an old American Woodworker that works great. The top hinges up for bit changes. The router motor is supported by the 3/4 plywood back of the router table. It slides on two 1 inch diameter machined metal rods with oilite bearings supporting the motor cradle. The clamp arrangement for the motor is wood so you can mount any router you want. I have an old Ryobi plunge router motor that draws a bit over 13A in it. You turn a piece of 3/8 all thread to raise and lower the motor so a full revolution moves the bit 1/16 inch. It has dust collection, lots of bit storage, and a drawer under the router motor for odds and ends. It moves on locking casters. I've made at least 3 other stand alones but I really like this one, I think it is the final.

If you want a lift and can afford it, get one. I can do everything I do on my stand alone on the simpler setup on the extension table of my table saw. It's just easier on the stand alone, partially because of the lift. If you want to save some money, check out the build it yourself options. The "woodworking for engineers" has one that tilts. Jay Bates (another youtuber with a website) also has an interesting arrangement. For me, a router table is something to build, not something to buy.

[Rick Potter]

Brett mentioned that the Jessem Router Lift II does not handle the larger routers. You mention having two large PC's.

Just reminding you that you need a 690/890 or some other router that fits the RL II.

[Dave Richards]

Dave if you have the details of your router lift I would be interested in them. I"m looking to build a router lift doe my porter cable.

thanks

Joe

To avoid taking this thread off course, I sent you a PM with some information.

[Dave Cav]

Well, I see this thread is back and I haven't updated it lately. I finally got the Jessem Mast-R-Lift II and it really has been a game changer. I rebuilt the router table with a new sheet of laminate on top and a miter slot, and built a new fence to accommodate a dust collection hose, and everything works great. I used to dread using the router table because changing bits was such a PITA and adjusting the final height was very finicky. The router lift changed all of that, and I use it all the time now. Cutter changes take about a minute, and I can make incremental height adjustments of a few thousands of an inch if necessary. No, it wasn't cheap, but it's been one of the best improvements I've made in the shop in some time. It isn't a replacement for the shaper, but it's a lot more useful to me now.

[Nick Decker]

Dave, I had the same kind of revelation when I got mine. People mention that this or that router lets you make above-table adjustments, etc., but it's just not as precise. I really think a good lift is something you have to use to fully appreciate.

[Bob Potter]

I just replaced a Triton 3 1/4 hp router with the built in lift. It had the plastic gear that broke and I haven't called about getting a new gear which I thing is metal now.
So I got a new Bosch 2 1/4 hp router and a JessEm Rout R Lift 11. The router was $169 at Lowe's and the router lift was $179 at Amazon. So two for the price of the a big lift. Been very happy with both.
Bob