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Thread: Shooting veneer

  1. #1
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    Shooting veneer

    I’m planning my first attempt at veneer. I’ll be using the glue/iron technique (because that’s the only “tools” I have right now). It’s redwood burl going onto 1/4 ply for a box top. The naive question; once it’s glued down (will be doing both sides), are there any issues with trimmimg it on a shooting board? Will the veneer chip, or will it play nice?
    Thanks!

  2. #2
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    Quote Originally Posted by Phil Mueller View Post
    I’m planning my first attempt at veneer. I’ll be using the glue/iron technique (because that’s the only “tools” I have right now). It’s redwood burl going onto 1/4 ply for a box top. The naive question; once it’s glued down (will be doing both sides), are there any issues with trimmimg it on a shooting board? Will the veneer chip, or will it play nice?
    Thanks!
    Personal opinion - I would try to clamp a stiffener to the veneer to use during cross-grain planing / shooting to help ensure I didn't get chipouts, torn edges.

  3. #3
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    Hi Phil

    I think that you have a choice of three methods:

    The first is to sandwich the veneer under MDF, and plane the finest section. If you do, then the shooting board of voice is a reverse ramped board, that is, where the ramp runs up. This will pull the plane into the veneer, reducing tearout ...



    The second method is to sand it rather than plane it. I took the picture below at a workshop I attended with Andrew Crawford, who is arguably the finest box maker at present. He used a section of MDF as a fence to guide a shopmade sander ...





    You can also see the veneer between two sections of MDF ...


    Now, you do not need to make a sander - Veritas make and sell one which is excellent ...



    Regards from Perth

    Derek

  4. #4
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    Quote Originally Posted by Derek Cohen View Post
    If you do, then the shooting board of voice is a reverse ramped board, that is, where the ramp runs up. This will pull the plane into the veneer, reducing tearout ...
    If your plane is skewed like the 51 or the LV shooter then you don't need the reverse-ramped board, since the iron itself will push "down" on the top edge of the work. Otherwise I completely agree.

  5. #5
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    Thanks all, very helpful! I do have a LV shooter and that veritas sander may have to go into the shopping cart. We’ll see how it goes this weekend.

  6. #6
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    The Veritas sander is out of stock til April. At least the 8" one is.
    Last edited by Tony Joyce; 02-16-2018 at 11:45 PM.
    "Only those who have the patience to do simple things perfectly will acquire the skill to do difficult things easily.”
    Friedrich von Schiller (1759-1805)

    "Quality means doing it right when no one is looking."
    Henry Ford

  7. #7
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    Quote Originally Posted by Tony Joyce View Post
    The Veritas sander is out of stock til April.
    Just mill yourself a long piece of triangular stock of the appropriate dimensions, drill/tap a hole for a plane knob on the back, and stick some PSA paper on the face. That's all the shooting sander is.
    Last edited by Patrick Chase; 02-16-2018 at 11:41 PM.

  8. #8
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    Yes, considering that also, Patrick. The shop made sander in Derek’s photo seems simple enough to make.

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