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Thread: Need Help with Table Saw Cut Issues

  1. #1

    Need Help with Table Saw Cut Issues

    I have a strange issue with the cuts on my table saw. I have an older 3 hp Delta Unisaw. The beginning of any cut has a slight bevel leaning to the right and the back of the cut piece has a slight bevel angle to the left. It's like there is a twist in the end of a crosscut. This happens with ripping too. I have tested multiple Freud blades and get the same result with each one. I have tried full kerf and thin kerf blades. I can't figure out the problem. I have the blade set at 90 degrees and am sure it is set correctly. I use machinist squares and I have a Wixey digital angle finder to set it. My saw blade is parallel to the miter track within .0005" and has been rechecked many times with my dial indicator. The blade at 45 degrees is parallel to the miter track within the same tolerance. It was slightly off but I shimmed the front of my table and got it parallel. Runout on the arbor is .003" and around .008" at the end of the blade. There is no play in my arbor when I try to move it. I can't figure this out. The angle is not very severe but it is very easy to see when making shoulder cuts on tenons as this causes there to be gaps. Any help would be appreciated.Cut Bottom.jpgCut-Front.jpgcut-back.jpgCut-Top.jpg

  2. #2
    That looks like construction spruce ,and it is not as dry as cabinet wood, so it's moving some. I would not make any fence adjustments without first test cutting some good cabinet wood.

  3. #3
    Check the table for twist/flatness.

  4. #4
    Join Date
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    You said you have an "older" Uni-saw. How old?

    Check the bearings as I had a similar issue with my Uni-saw before replacing the bearings. The below link to the Saw Center shows how to check the bearings using a shop-made stethoscope --piece of wood -- in picture 13. Crude but it works. http://www.sawcenter.com/unisaw.htm

    Also check the belts condition.

  5. #5
    Join Date
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    I agree, check the table and make tests with better material.

  6. #6
    I’ve tested with a few types of hardwoods. I used the 2x4 for clarity in the picture. I first noticed this when my tenons on an oak wardrobe build had curved shoulders. It may be arbor related.

  7. #7
    I thought this may be the case but the same thing happens when cross cutting from either side of the blade and happens with my crosscut sled that is very flat.

  8. #8
    Thank you. I will check the bearings. The arbor was rebuilt in 2009 but there’s always a chance it could need work again. The belts were replaced with link belts a few months ago to remove the vibration I had.

  9. #9
    Join Date
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    How does the blade look on the indicator as you move the blade around? Could be that bit of arbor runout is causing you problems and there is a slight wobble to the blade. You can mark the high points on the arbor and file them down.
    Don

  10. #10
    Join Date
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    You shouldn’t need v-belts on a Uni, which might tell you something. As said above, check arbor bearings, arbor flange, and table flatness.

    How are you making the crosscuts? Sled, miter gauge, sliding table?

  11. #11
    Join Date
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    Quote Originally Posted by Brad Ross View Post
    Thank you. I will check the bearings. The arbor was rebuilt in 2009 but there’s always a chance it could need work again. The belts were replaced with link belts a few months ago to remove the vibration I had.
    Doesn't your Unisaw have 2 or 3 belts? If so I don't think link belts are generally recommended for multiple belt drives. If your saw has multiple belts, get good quality Gates belts, they are all precision made so you no longer need to buy matched belts.

    When you you say your arbor has run out is that in the vertical direction or is the flange running in and out?
    Lee Schierer
    USNA '71
    Go Navy!

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  12. #12
    Thank you. I will try some new belts. I had some vibration in the saw so I switched to link belts and they removed the vibration. The runout is in the flange running in and out. From things that I have read .003" is within the tolerance for good cut quality.

  13. #13
    I am making most crosscuts on a crosscut sled. I will sometimes use a miter gauge but mostly the crosscut sled. I may try buying some new belts. I had some vibration so I switched to the link belts and it removed it. My table is has a .003" slight gap in the center and on the left and right side of the table when measured with feeler gauges and a machinist straight edge. The highest spots are around the miter gauges. That seems pretty good. Is there a way to test the bearings without removing the arbor? I cant hear any issues when spinning it by hand. Arbor flange has a .003" runout. I don't feel any movement in the arbor when trying to move it around.

  14. #14
    Have you checked this with other blades?

    Are you using thin kerf blades?

    The reason I ask is I'm thinking there is something causing it when the blade first enters and exits, which in my mind makes me think that.

  15. #15
    Yes, I have tried with multiple thin kerf and full kerf blades and get the same results. I thought the same at first. My first thought was blade deflection when I saw what was happening but when I tried my full kerf blades I got the same result.

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