benchcraft leg vise question

[Bob Cooper]

i'm going thru the install instructions for benchcrafted's leg vise -- i haven't bought it yet...still working on the bench design. There one step where you install essentially a long bolt. The thing i cannot figure out is they seem to reference the location of this bolt in relation to the back of the leg but the mortise for the criss-cross if mortised from the front. So it seems to me that this bolt location really needs to be offset from the front (or the mortise depth). Here's a picture from their install guide. Since the leg thickness can vary (mine will be 5") i'm somewhat confused.

I'll likely reach out to them as well but figured some of you guys may be done this install.

[Marc Donnelly]

The pin goes through both walls of the mortice

[David Eisenhauer]

Are you talking about the bolt that runs through the leg and into the stretcher for bench break down or are you talking about the pin that the criss cross pivots on? The leg-to-stretcher bolt hole runs behind the criss cross mortise and is planned out for the BC leg thickness of around (I think) 3-1/2" or so. If you are going with a different leg thickness, than you will have to adjust the location of your bolt hole if you are going to use a bolt at all rather than a mortise and tenon connection.

[Dave Richards]

That's showing where to drill the hole for the bolt that secures the rail to the leg if you are using a bolt. It comes from their Split Top Roubo plan so you should look at that for the dimensions of the leg. I think the point of putting the bolt where they show it is to prevent it from fouling the criss cross mechanism. If you look at the last page of the installation instructions it specifically mentions that. If you are designing your own bench you can deal with the joinery between the stretcher rail and the leg as you see fit.

[Bob Cooper]

ok...then i totally mis-read the intent of that bolt. i thought it was somehow related to holding the cross mechanism. That also explains why they are dictating how big of a mortise. i show here the pin at the top but haven't put one in the bottom yet. you can see how my original mortise and tenon which was copied from Chris Schwartz (sp?) design has to be adjusted.

My bench has a lower desk like area for doing mechanical repairs -- where i want to sit down and work on stuff close up. This is sitting up against a wall and i have about 9' of space to put the two benches.

[Dave Richards]

You might find that low bench top gets in the way. I think you'll also need to do something different at the top of the legs where they join to the top. There's not a lot of strength in what you show.

What are you making the top from?

You might want the top to extend beyond the front left leg a bit, too. It's provide more support for work you'd clamp up in the vise.

[Clint Baxter]

ok...then i totally mis-read the intent of that bolt. i thought it was somehow related to holding the cross mechanism. That also explains why they are dictating how big of a mortise. i show here the pin at the top but haven't put one in the bottom yet. you can see how my original mortise and tenon which was copied from Chris Schwartz (sp?) design has to be adjusted.

My bench has a lower desk like area for doing mechanical repairs -- where i want to sit down and work on stuff close up. This is sitting up against a wall and i have about 9' of space to put the two benches.

The criss-cross assembly has a pin only at the top. The bottom portions slide up and down as the vise is operated so cannot be pinned. They don’t have a hole in the bottoms anyway which you’ll see when you get yours.

Clint

[Bob Cooper]

i now realize that the lower part doesn't have a pin...i was noticing that a little while ago when i looked more closely at their diagram.

Dave -- yea i know it's a compromise <-- i.e. having that lower bench on the left. I can easily remove it but if it wasn't there to begin w/i would extend the top of the tall main bench a good 6-12". do you find yourself needing to stand on that left side? i'd rally rather not get rid of it unless it's really going to screw things up.

If i let that overhand a few minute like you show in your bench that would cut down on the usability of the smaller table. i guess it's a compromise

Top is 2.25" boos brother maple countertop left over from an old kitchen island. I think the tenon length and width i'm using is from CS' book but his top may have had more thickness so i could reduce that tenon length...is that the concern?

[Bob Cooper]

well...here's another sketchup question as well. i'd like to show a hole going thru the chop but i need to go thru at an angle that is not perpendicular and i need it to be hollow when i complete. I'm not quite sure how to do either. I thought about somehow drawing a line thru the component (using xray view?) and using the follow me tool but i think i still wouldn't know how to make it hollow. i'm used to it being hollow if i just terminate the push tool flush w/the outer face.

this picture may help explain what i'm talking about...note how the hole (tube) is at an angle due to the side of the chop being angled.

[Dave Richards]

Bob, check your private messages.