Actually I don't (and the idea of spending hours rehabbing tools like the Windsor #33 mystifies me) but it seemed that we needed threads about all 4 kinds of tools :-).
[OP]
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Actually I don't (and the idea of spending hours rehabbing tools like the Windsor #33 mystifies me) but it seemed that we needed threads about all 4 kinds of tools :-).
Last edited by Lee Schierer; 02-09-2018 at 7:22 AM.
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My paper weight made from a new Stanley No. 92 Sweetheart Shoulder / Chisel Plane, with a tilted bed
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Have you seen bench plane by Narex? http://www.narextools.cz/en/iron-plane-8270
I've heard it also moves blade laterally left or right when adjusting depth of cut...
https://youtu.be/bpYzJ_RO1Do?t=2m47s
Last edited by Andrey Kharitonkin; 02-09-2018 at 6:53 AM.
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Originally Posted by Andrey Kharitonkin
Andrey,
It's so ugly I want one.
ken
Member
Gotta catch 'em all, right?Andrey,
It's so ugly I want one
ken
[OP]
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Ooh, an Aluminum body. That's gonna leave a mark (literally).
Contributor
But Patrick, what do you find to be the best SHARPENING approach for bad new tools?
I use scary sharp for my new Stanley block plane. After having inserted the cheap, stamped steel iron carefully in my LV jig, I rub it back and forth on the concrete garage floor. (It cuts quickly and there's a lot of surface area, so it never clogs.) Then I follow with stropping on mdf slathered with LV green compound. When I need to change the bevel angle, I use the rougher concrete of my driveway. Then I repeat on the garage floor before stropping. I find this method to be superior to all others.
Fred
[Sorry guys. I just couldn't help myself.]
Last edited by Frederick Skelly; 02-09-2018 at 7:00 AM.
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
Contributor
Fred,
I read your sharpening post with great interest, as I am looking for good information on "state of the art" sharpening methods, thus my great interest, but in spite of your innovative and well thought out method, your post did bring questions to mind:
1. Obviously your garage floor sharpening method is the method of choice when your after "state of the art sharpness" for your smoothing plane when you need to create curls you can see though. This, so that you can put finish on the resulting surface without sanding. My question is: do you have some quicker method that can be used when a shaving grade edge is not needed, say for a scrub plane or something similar?
2. My second question is: what do you do for a portable and light weigh sharpening system? Obviously you can't take your driveway with you. Do you have a couple of 12" cinder or concrete blocks in medium and fine grit, and if so do you have a couple of fair size heavy duty tool box that you can carry each in?
3. Finally, do you use some sort of honing oil on the garage floor like on an oil stone: Smith's Honing Oil?, mineral oil?, WD40?, used 10W40?
Please advise.......inquiring minds want to know.
Thanks and regards,
Stew
Last edited by Stew Denton; 02-10-2018 at 8:41 PM.
Contributor
All the best,
Fred
"All that is necessary for the triumph of evil is that good men do nothing."
“If you want to know what a man's like, take a good look at how he treats his inferiors, not his equals.”
[OP]
Member
I was coming up empty, but Stew has inspired me...
Yeah, that works alright, but you have to be careful to pour only natural white concrete (henceforth: CNat) in your garage. The grey Portland stuff is OK for carpentry, but those iron and magnesium oxides are very rough on edges and prevent you from achieving the "airy scandinavian look" that you know your garage needs to put your epoxy-loving neighbors in their place.I use scary sharp for my new Stanley block plane. After having inserted the cheap, stamped steel iron carefully in my LV jig, I rub it back and forth on the concrete garage floor. (It cuts quickly and there's a lot of surface area, so it never clogs.) Then I follow with stropping on mdf slathered with LV green compound. When I need to change the bevel angle, I use the rougher concrete of my driveway. Then I repeat on the garage floor before stropping. I find this method to be superior to all others.
As a bonus CNat provides a gentler honing action leading to infinitely longer edge life, despite consisting of small silicate and alumina particles and other Stuff From A Hole In The Ground (tm) just like every other concrete in existence. It's magic!
PS - I had no idea that there was such a thing as "natural concrete" until I searched for it just now. My faith in marketers and human nature has been validated in a rule-34-esque manner: "If it exists, there is natural of it".
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 02-11-2018 at 12:49 AM.
Contributor
All depends on the colour and quality of the sand that is used....may try the Red natural from down South....around here, we have a Brown Natural...
Depending on the PSI of the CNat......determines the "grain" size......3000 has very small grains (aka gravel) vs 5000 that has very large grains.
If you mess up, you may get a contamination of Fibre-Glas.....that tends to rise to the surface....
Note: IF you are a chewer of tobacco pruducts,,,, a little spit on the concrete makes a "Natural" lube.....hence the term "Slick Finish" ( BTDT....)
[OP]
Member
Bravo, Steven. You're obviously a connoisseur of fine CNat. I had no idea :-).
Last edited by Patrick Chase; 02-11-2018 at 12:47 AM.
Member
We joke about it..... But there is a layer of truth in there....
When I was young - A neighbor of mine was Scottish.. He was an older fellow... Served in WWII.... His father was a jointer/carpenter of some sort or another and had apprenticed as such at a young age...
One day - I was watching him sharpen some tool with a rock... I was young and that was captivating.... And he put a good edge on whatever it was.. He said he had learned it from his father... And his father learned at the hand of his masters... Apparently, they walked to jobsites in those days before cars.... Weight went on your back - and so they liked to travel light.. And so they would find a proper looking rock or brick or some such to use on the jobsite.. They would flatten it and just use that to whet their tools while on the jobsite...
In the days since I learned to sharpen properly - I always filed this away as "crazy talk"... But since then - I have heard the same sort of things often enough to at least believe it probably happend ...
but then there is the other side too... What a 10 year old boy sees is not always what is happening.. There are things that a master has learned or was taught that he teaches the apprentice... What sort of rock... How do you find it... How do you prep it... How do you sharpen your tools properly with it...
I was amazed to see the sorts of things a master tool maker can do with a peen hammer...
Last edited by John C Cox; 02-12-2018 at 2:39 PM.
Contributor
I'd be lying if I said I have never had to sharpen a chisel on site with a rock or concrete. Normally it is at some relative's house where they only have plastic handled chisels from Sears circa 1975 (they make the best paint can openers, don't you know!), and I've been roped into putting in a lock mortice or something similar without enough forewarning to bring my toolbox with. I must say though, those old Sears chisels take a better edge than their flat blade screwdrivers......... argh.
[OP]
Member
I had *exactly* that happen at my Father-in-law's new house. His doorknobs wouldn't fit into their mortises (the usual square-corner-round-mortise issues) so he handed me this socket chisel that had apparently been handed down through 3 generations of his family, but not cared for (or fitted with a handle - the socket was very impressively mushroomed) in at least two. Garage floor to the rescue. It was grey Portland concrete though.
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